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1991 Ford E150, 351w, e4od.
After much trials and problems I finally figured I could not do worse than the mechanics I have been paying to not fix the problems, lol. I got the code reader and did the first test, KOEO.
I received an 111 so nothing wrong at the time, then the 10 to separate. The next part was the memory codes, it returned these.
118–Engine coolant temp sensor above voltage. (I replaced that sensor a week ago so that makes sense to be in memory, as I understand if I do another KOEO test of that replacement fixed that the code will not appear again as it will be cleared out of memory by the new test?).
321–No idea what this is, not listed in book that came with reader or anywhere I could find.
328–EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected
634–Manual Lever Position sensor voltage higher or lower than expected or A/C on (the ac was in the off position).
Do I just replace the EGR valve and the MLPS?
I have had intermittent hard shifting and absolute crap mpg (as low as 4).
Thank you all, this site has been wonderful!
UPDATE!!!
Thank you all so much..After almost 3 years of fighting this random acceleration/binding cable issue it is fixed! It ended up being the throttle body. The transmission issue ended up being the MLPS. So all in all not so bad. It is frustrating that a bunch of mechanics charged and didn’t fix the real issue, but water under the bridge it is fixed now! This is HUGE, to be able drive without random acceleration and sticking deceleration, plus no more transmission thunks!
Now on to the next set of repairs! Thank You all again!!!
Last edited by Marybeth123; Jun 14, 2022 at 03:26 PM.
Reason: Uodate
You need to do the pinpoint tests for each code
118 might need a thermostat or it was not warmed up completely before test
Grab a H manual or PCED for your year and see which pinpoint tests associate with which codes
I have a 1992 book that might be the same enough to work
Not the valve maybe the EVP replace
The position sensor on top of the valve ( get a Ford one ) and do the pinpoint test steps first if you can
here is some info
if under warranty back in the day.. I wouldn't even look at it. I would just order a MLP sensor (transmission range switch or neutral safety switch) and an EVP sensor
Let them call it what they will and get a Ford one on thee MLP
Note DN 27 where substitute known good EVP
After diagnosing about 40 cars or trucks and replacing the EVP sensor and fixing them
We used to just start there at DN27 with a new EVP
Same with that MLP any code ever means replace the sensor and call me in the morning
Good luck You can do this
Thank you so much. It took 3 tries, but I found a shop that would replace the mlps. Driving around after the new sensor, it actually shifteD into OD at the correct time AND no more hard shifting between first and second! They said I needed a new fan clutch, which they do not do. So I will look up how to do that. The egr I think I can handle myself. Thank you so much!
My check engine light never came on, it lights when I turn key on so ostensibly it works. So far so good! The transmission shop said my no power in 3rd is definitely not transmission related. I will do the fan clutch and the egr next. I have a noise I thought was some k8nd if vacuum leak, but maybe it is the fan engaging improperly? Replacement will tell anyway. I am tempted to just replace all 3 egr components on general principle, but maybe that is overkill? I miss my 63 Sprint…so much easier than this!
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