Clutch Fork Anti-Rattle Spring (Clip)
#1
#5
I probably can't be of a whole lot of help. My manual shift trucks are both 66 F250 4x4 and the trunnion is a bit different in these cast iron "eared" bellhousings. I'll look back through some older pictures and see if I can find pictures I took when it was apart. I took off the dust cover and got about as good of a picture as I can right now since mine is assembled, but here it is in case it helps at all.
#6
Not much else so far but I did find a couple of pics after I had blasted the bellhousing. The trunnion is rivetted to the cast iron (in this case) housing. I do recall I put the spring on the fork first and then hooked the fork and spring to the trunnion. It only seemed to fit one way. I know that's not really helpful.
#7
Thanks Chad! My bellhousing has the trunnion rivetted to the housing also. The little notch in the middle of the trunnion in your second picture is what I hooked the clip onto. I also put the spring on the fork first and then hooked the fork and spring to the trunnion. I was hoping that's what the notch was for. Al
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#8
I'd take a guess that you've got it right. Been long enough ago I am not recalling some of the details. The spring isn't much more than a hangar/hinge for the fork so as long as it feels fairly secure and pivots freely on the trunnion then you're probably good to go. Although, it would suck if it came off at some point in the future unexpectedly!
#10
Dan TK65
#11
Thanks Dan. The new pilot bearing is a roller bearing type and I don't care for them either. The one in the crank is brass and I installed it when I put the motor in. Dad (who has more knowledge in his little finger....) says leave in the brass one, so I am. Picking up the flywheel tomorrow (had it resurfaced) and I'm sure it'll be running by Sunday.
#12
^ x2. The oil impregnated bronze bushings (also called Composite bushings) are the way to go. This one is for the 240/300 engines in the 4x4 trucks so a 2WD uses a different number, but it's sort of cool. Funny how the packaging calls it a bearing, but at least they are consistent. COMPO is short for Composite.
The FE engine bushing (bearing) changed numbers at least 3 times. Or course, the aftermarket has them readily available, too, but what fun is that?
B8A-7600-A
B8AZ-7600-A
D1TZ-7600-A
The FE engine bushing (bearing) changed numbers at least 3 times. Or course, the aftermarket has them readily available, too, but what fun is that?
B8A-7600-A
B8AZ-7600-A
D1TZ-7600-A
#13
^ x2. The oil impregnated bronze bushings (also called Composite bushings) are the way to go. This one is for the 240/300 engines in the 4x4 trucks so a 2WD uses a different number, but it's sort of cool. Funny how the packaging calls it a bearing, but at least they are consistent. COMPO is short for Composite.
The FE engine bushing (bearing) changed numbers at least 3 times. Or course, the aftermarket has them readily available, too, but what fun is that?
B8A-7600-A
B8AZ-7600-A
D1TZ-7600-A
The FE engine bushing (bearing) changed numbers at least 3 times. Or course, the aftermarket has them readily available, too, but what fun is that?
B8A-7600-A
B8AZ-7600-A
D1TZ-7600-A
#14
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rn-spring.html Post #13 by ND has a pic of what you were questioning. I know you already bolted it up, and I was looking for something else, but had to share.
#15
Just throw my red neck back woods hill billy two cents in. 1965 390 with headers. took to muffler place. Already had collectors lined up. Bolted up ready for install. Stupid SOB turned collectors so it interfered with clutch arm. Hated to do it but I had to torch a piece out of clutch arm to make it work. Am losing all confidence in any shop doing type of vehicle work. Oh yeah. Had to reinstall clutch arm on throw out bearing . Mine is not a 100% restore. But. Still I want to drive it. Rant over. Thanks.
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