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Thanks so much for taking the time to take the pics. Couple questions, does the small fan at the top run all the time, or is it temp regulated somehow? Any problems with condensation “drip tray” overflowing on the floor space?
My curiosity is because we converted our Norcold to Dutch Air 12 volt compressor about a year ago, we are not real happy with it. Further investigation, I have determined door seals are leaking and cannot get seals , have to replace complete door. Who would have ever thought?
Sorry go the long post.
Thanks again for taking the time.
The fan will run when I turn a switch on but I haven't had to use it but if I do I will find a temp control for it, I really don't think I will need it. I will also clean up the wiring if I do. I've haven't seen any water in the tray so far, with the way they run the compressor discharge line through it it will evaporate fast.
I looked at the Dutch Air compressor unit and with my refrigeration background it looked like something someone made in their garage, wasn't impressed.
Twice we had short travel days and I never used the inverter and had very little temp gain, I also shut it down overnight when dry camping and it held temp but it wasn't that warm.
Denny
My 12v compressor frig. Orig. To my camper has small opening around front of frig. To vent rejected heat to inside of camper. My concern is evaporated condensate moisture in that area posibly casusing premature camper rotting. Thoughs.?
My 12v compressor frig. Orig. To my camper has small opening around front of frig. To vent rejected heat to inside of camper. My concern is evaporated condensate moisture in that area posibly casusing premature camper rotting. Thoughs.?
If it's the OEM refrigerator, you would think they would have accounted for displaced fluids.
The Dutch Air people did not account for condensation from the compressor lines (tubing).
In high humidity weather , I have considerable moisture to deal with. It’s a problem. I am not insinuating all the problems are because of they’re unit, the Norcold box itself seems to not be designed very well. Hindsight is 20/20, but I think there are better options for your money.
There are quite a few retail DC compressor refrigerator options available now that fit the same space as the typical absorption refrigerator. When my absorption refrigerator dies (hopefully without flames involved), I'm going with a DC compressor unit. The DC compressor units are more efficient than the residential (AC) versions. I have enough battery bank and solar to support that a DC fridge.
There are quite a few retail DC compressor refrigerator options available now that fit the same space as the typical absorption refrigerator. When my absorption refrigerator dies (hopefully without flames involved), I'm going with a DC compressor unit. The DC compressor units are more efficient than the residential (AC) versions. I have enough battery bank and solar to support that a DC fridge.
If/when our absorption fridge dies, we will be following in the footsteps (or leading I suppose) of Jim and installing a DC compressor fridge. We too have solar and battery capacity to support this change.
I have an Everchill rebranded 12V DC in mine. One thing I discovered is if the indoor temp gets to 40 or below, the freezer warms up to above 0. Normally it is 7 below. That's the only negative I have on ours.
I have an Everchill rebranded 12V DC in mine. One thing I discovered is if the indoor temp gets to 40 or below, the freezer warms up to above 0. Normally it is 7 below. That's the only negative I have on ours.
What's happening is the the temp control is in the lower section so when a room temp gets close to the lower section temp the compressor won't run causing the freezer to warm. There is only one coil and that's in the freezer and the lower section gets bypassed air to cool it.
What's happening is the the temp control is in the lower section so when a room temp gets close to the lower section temp the compressor won't run causing the freezer to warm. There is only one coil and that's in the freezer and the lower section gets bypassed air to cool it.
Denny
Yep, know it all too well. Its the downside of the 12DC over the ammonia driven ones.
Here's a update on the new frig. We pay our own electric in the winter and have kept track of usage over the years and our usage has dropped compared to running the the ammonia RV unit and it's 327 watt heating element. We averaged 100 kw a week before and now we are down to 68 a week even with running the heat pump at night because of the cooler than normal weather.
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