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For comparison, my Dometic RM2852 has the following dimensions:
59-15/16″ (H) x 23-11/16″ (W) x 24″ (D)
Weight: 250 lbs
Interior: 8 Cu Ft
The AC refrigerator that Denny posted above is only 117 lbs and has 10.1 cubic feet of interior space. The only issue I have is the depth dimension, which is 26.2". Without removing my absorption fridge, I just don't know if I have that much depth space.
Because of the way the doors are on a residential you leave it out the thickness of the doors so they can swing all the way open. When I get it in the hole I will take a photo and post it, the edge of the case should end up flush with the cabinet. Because the case of the frig is the condenser you have to make sure the cabinet was extra width so there is a air gap for air to move around the case. Ours is 3" wider than the frig on the side and 3" taller than the frig not ideal but it will work. I'm also mounting the 12v cooling fan off my old frig to move air at the top with some kind of a thermostat. The face frame opening is just a little bigger than the new frig so it will take just a little trim to close up any gaps.
Because of the way the doors are on a residential you leave it out the thickness of the doors so they can swing all the way open. When I get it in the hole I will take a photo and post it, the edge of the case should end up flush with the cabinet. Because the case of the frig is the condenser you have to make sure the cabinet was extra width so there is a air gap for air to move around the case. Ours is 3" wider than the frig on the side and 3" taller than the frig not ideal but it will work. I'm also mounting the 12v cooling fan off my old frig to move air at the top with some kind of a thermostat. The face frame opening is just a little bigger than the new frig so it will take just a little trim to close up any gaps.
Denny
Does that mean that the dimensions provided by the manufacturer are off? Do the doors stick out further beyond the face of the cabinet than the absorption refrigerator's do?
Every residential I've seen mounted in a RV the edge of the case is flush with the face frame and the doors stick out. It's the only way you can put a trim piece to seal up the hole. RV style frig has a lip on the sides and trim pieces top and bottom to seal it up.
Every residential I've seen mounted in a RV the edge of the case is flush with the face frame and the doors stick out. It's the only way you can put a trim piece to seal up the hole. RV style frig has a lip on the sides and trim pieces top and bottom to seal it up.
Denny
Denny, you are correct. We have a residential fridge and the doors do stick out from the face frame.....
It's in there and running the blue tape is there to hold styrofoam that's filling the gaps, it will be covered with the trim later. The fan will also be finished later and some L brackets added at the top when I get them. This is as far as it goes for now, I want to get the trailer cleaned up and out of my shop driveway so I can get my boat out and ready to go. I will have the rest of the summer to finish it up and figure out what I'm using for a inverter. It looks good but not as nice as out old frig with wood door inserts that match the cabinets.
I like it Denny. Very nice work. If I ever have to swap fridge's, I'll have to stay w/residential as I do not have an outside access and really don't want to cut one out....
Denny, are you going to seal off the outside lower vent? Given how much dirt already accumulates in my bottom vent, it's something I would look at on my rig. In the winter, I put a piece of plastic over the opening and then install the vent, just to keep dirt out.
[QUOTE=HRTKD;20370010]Denny, are you going to seal off the outside lower vent? Given how much dirt already accumulates in my bottom vent, it's something I would look at on my rig. In the winter, I put a piece of plastic over the opening and then install the vent, just to keep dirt out.[/QUOT
You have to keep the vents open so some air will circulate to cool the case that's the condenser in the side walls of the frig, I will make something to block them off if we ever get into cold weather that we try and avoid. On bigger residential fridges the condenser is located under the frig and take air out of the room and exhausts it back into the room so the vents came be totally block off.
Everything is complete and ready for the fall . I installed a 2000 watt Protect pure sine wave inverter with bluetooth and a/c pass through (transfer switch). The frig draws 53 watts when running and balanced out and I have no need for the exhaust fan on warm days. I made a device to keep the door closed when traveling and I just need so 1/2 shrink tubing to finish it off.
In the past we used a old 650 watt Honda generator to run the TV when dry camping but our big built-in when we needed to run the chest freezer because the Honda had a hard time starting the freezer. I tried something different yesterday and and plugged converter into the 650 Honda and tried starting the frig off the inverter and because the batteries supplied the start current it worked perfectly, then I started the dorm refrigerator and it ran them both and maintained 13.7 volts. So when dry camping for the nights when traveling and save fuel, not as convenient as the built-in but the 650 sips fuel and the 50 kw sucks fuel. We will still shut it all down when sleeping but they should both hold temp overnight and let the truck charge the batteries and run them when going down the road.l just like we've been doing before off our MSW inverter running the freezer and dorm refrigerator when needed. In the future we may add some solar and more batteries.
New to site. Is moderator just part of ur specific name or it some group.? Like laughing gas?
Originally Posted by rvpuller
I've looked at them but they are still a AC compressor with a inverter built into the control box attached compressor. It's cheaper and you get more pick from if you go with a regular refrigerator and run it off a pass though inverter. I've been running our chest freezer off a inverter for years when going down the road and the truck keeps the batteries up. I haven't decided if I'm going to run a dedicated inverter for the frig or replace my modified inverter with a true sine wave or have two inverters one for the chest and one for the whole slide where the frig is, whatever I do I will be changing some wiring. I retired from my electrical/refrigeration business so it's right up my alley. I'm limited to a 10 cu ft unit so not a lot to pick from.
Denny
Originally Posted by rvpuller
Everything is complete and ready for the fall . I installed a 2000 watt Protect pure sine wave inverter with bluetooth and a/c pass through (transfer switch). The frig draws 53 watts when running and balanced out and I have no need for the exhaust fan on warm days. I made a device to keep the door closed when traveling and I just need so 1/2 shrink tubing to finish it off.
In the past we used a old 650 watt Honda generator to run the TV when dry camping but our big built-in when we needed to run the chest freezer because the Honda had a hard time starting the freezer. I tried something different yesterday and and plugged converter into the 650 Honda and tried starting the frig off the inverter and because the batteries supplied the start current it worked perfectly, then I started the dorm refrigerator and it ran them both and maintained 13.7 volts. So when dry camping for the nights when traveling and save fuel, not as convenient as the built-in but the 650 sips fuel and the 50 kw sucks fuel. We will still shut it all down when sleeping but they should both hold temp overnight and let the truck charge the batteries and run them when going down the road.l just like we've been doing before off our MSW inverter running the freezer and dorm refrigerator when needed. In the future we may add some solar and more batteries.
Bring this back to life, I have a question for RV Puller, Denny.
Sir, curious how the Magic Chef fridge is working for you? Any problems keeping it powered up boondocking, etc? Did you do anything special mounting fridge to minimize vibration, bumps from rough roads, etc.
Thanks for your response.
Bring this back to life, I have a question for RV Puller, Denny.
Sir, curious how the Magic Chef fridge is working for you? Any problems keeping it powered up boondocking, etc? Did you do anything special mounting fridge to minimize vibration, bumps from rough roads, etc.
Thanks for your response.
We are a month into our trip to Yuma and no problems with the frig. When going down the road it's running off a 2000 watt pure sign wave inverter along with our freezer, the truck keeping the batteries charged. When dry camping if needed I plus our converter into a 650 watt Honda generator but shut it all down for the night and have very little temp gain in the box.
For mounting I've done another one in a friend's trailer we were traveling with, on mine I removed the front feet and built-up front of the cabinet and then shimmed the back of the fridge until it was flush with the inside cabinet and then ran 4 screws along the back. The other one the feet ended up on the face frame of the cabinet so we left them that way and shimmed the back. I ran the back shims all the way across the back to keep the back rollers from digging into the wood. On both I mounted a block at the top and L brackets to stop the top from moving, we are in the road right now and will take a couple of photos when we stop in a couple of days when I can get my ladder out.
Dealing with a west Texas wind right now heading west on I-10, wife's driving.
Thanks for the reply. I will be looking forward to the additional pics. Safe travels
You can see the shim at the base, I also reinforced the bottom of the shelf underneath and ran the screws into it. Because ours is in the slide I was able to mount angle brackets at the top to make sure it didn't move, you have to use very short screws going into the frig so you don't hit any of the condenser coils. On our 3300 mile trip we have hit some very nasty pot holes and it never moved. One thing with this type of frig the condenser coils are mounted to the case on the inside so you need clearance on the sides and top. We have 6" on the top and 1.75 on the sides. When we set up in Yuma I will know if I will need to find a temp switch to control the rally exhaust fan, that side will face the sun.
Thanks so much for taking the time to take the pics. Couple questions, does the small fan at the top run all the time, or is it temp regulated somehow? Any problems with condensation “drip tray” overflowing on the floor space?
My curiosity is because we converted our Norcold to Dutch Air 12 volt compressor about a year ago, we are not real happy with it. Further investigation, I have determined door seals are leaking and cannot get seals , have to replace complete door. Who would have ever thought?
Sorry go the long post.
Thanks again for taking the time.
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the blue tape is there to hold styrofoam that's filling the gaps, it will be covered with the trim later. The fan will also be finished later and some L brackets added at the top when I get them. This is as far as it goes for now, I want to get the trailer cleaned up and out of my shop driveway so I can get my boat out and ready to go. I will have the rest of the summer to finish it up and figure out what I'm using for a inverter. It looks good but not as nice as out old frig with wood door inserts that match the cabinets.
. I installed a 2000 watt Protect pure sine wave inverter with bluetooth and a/c pass through (transfer switch). The frig draws 53 watts when running and balanced out and I have no need for the exhaust fan on warm days.
