Total Advance for I6
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2022
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Total Advance for I6
I posted in the bronco forum, it is under "timing issues". My question, is untill I can regear, I can advance my timing to a TOTAL of 48 deg at 2800-2900 RPMs. It will run a lot better and can keep up with traffic this way, but is that too much advance? Yes it is hard to start, but I can use an ignition box with a start retard feature.
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2022
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Not for total advance. I disconnect it for initial, then hook it back it up. When I do total advance at 3000RPMs, the vacume is gone, and only the mechanical advance is engaged. That is where I got a reading of 48.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
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From: Boise, Idaho
If you're getting 48° with just mechanical advance, that's a lot, for sure. You sometimes can get there if you throw vacuum advance into the mix, too. But If your vacuum is 0, and your timing is at 48 at 3000 RPMs, you're throwing a lot at it.
When PerformanceDistributors curved my HEI distributor, they told me to put it at 12° base timing.
Then it had 22° of mechanical advance.
At 500 RPMs it added 0, and then gradually increased to 22 at 2750 RPMs.
500 was 12° total (12 + 0)
1000 was 18
1500 was 25
2000 was 29
2500 was 32
2750 was 34 (12 + 22).
The vacuum advance added in up to another 14° when there was high engine vacuum (low load).
This could get it up to 48° of total advance (12 + 22 + 14) but only under very light load. The engine vacuum had to be 13hg or more.
Vacuum advance started coming in around 9gh. Anything less than that and the vacuum advance was 0, so timing was purely base + mechanical.
When PerformanceDistributors curved my HEI distributor, they told me to put it at 12° base timing.
Then it had 22° of mechanical advance.
At 500 RPMs it added 0, and then gradually increased to 22 at 2750 RPMs.
500 was 12° total (12 + 0)
1000 was 18
1500 was 25
2000 was 29
2500 was 32
2750 was 34 (12 + 22).
The vacuum advance added in up to another 14° when there was high engine vacuum (low load).
This could get it up to 48° of total advance (12 + 22 + 14) but only under very light load. The engine vacuum had to be 13hg or more.
Vacuum advance started coming in around 9gh. Anything less than that and the vacuum advance was 0, so timing was purely base + mechanical.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
If you're getting 48° with just mechanical advance, that's a lot, for sure. You sometimes can get there if you throw vacuum advance into the mix, too. But If your vacuum is 0, and your timing is at 48 at 3000 RPMs, you're throwing a lot at it.
When PerformanceDistributors curved my HEI distributor, they told me to put it at 12° base timing.
Then it had 22° of mechanical advance.
At 500 RPMs it added 0, and then gradually increased to 22 at 2750 RPMs.
500 was 12° total (12 + 0)
1000 was 18
1500 was 25
2000 was 29
2500 was 32
2750 was 34 (12 + 22).
The vacuum advance added in up to another 14° when there was high engine vacuum (low load).
This could get it up to 48° of total advance (12 + 22 + 14) but only under very light load. The engine vacuum had to be 13hg or more.
Vacuum advance started coming in around 9gh. Anything less than that and the vacuum advance was 0, so timing was purely base + mechanical.
When PerformanceDistributors curved my HEI distributor, they told me to put it at 12° base timing.
Then it had 22° of mechanical advance.
At 500 RPMs it added 0, and then gradually increased to 22 at 2750 RPMs.
500 was 12° total (12 + 0)
1000 was 18
1500 was 25
2000 was 29
2500 was 32
2750 was 34 (12 + 22).
The vacuum advance added in up to another 14° when there was high engine vacuum (low load).
This could get it up to 48° of total advance (12 + 22 + 14) but only under very light load. The engine vacuum had to be 13hg or more.
Vacuum advance started coming in around 9gh. Anything less than that and the vacuum advance was 0, so timing was purely base + mechanical.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Yeah, that's one thing I really like with my Sniper setup.
I have about 20° of timing at idle, but when during startup, it's only 4°. It rips to life when I start it.
How do you have your vacuum advance hooked up? It should just be a vac line going right to the manifold (or the ported vacuum on the carb).
I have about 20° of timing at idle, but when during startup, it's only 4°. It rips to life when I start it.
How do you have your vacuum advance hooked up? It should just be a vac line going right to the manifold (or the ported vacuum on the carb).
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2021
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2022
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i used a dial back timing light. Vac advance hooked up and on the throttle.
could be the engine is just too worn out to ping. Blow by?
it is in the middle of rebuild now so ill update when motor is back in.
could be the engine is just too worn out to ping. Blow by?
it is in the middle of rebuild now so ill update when motor is back in.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2015
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You may think there isn't any vacuum at 3000 rpm in neutral but you may be surprised.
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2022
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my question would be why? If the vacume is connected while your driving and hit 3000 RPMs, wouldnt you want a real time reading? Or does a load on the engine change that?
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 715
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Real world timing is WOT at 3000 rpm.
You cannot hold WOT at 3000 rpm in neutral standing at the vehicle with a timing light.
To accomplish the same conditions, you disconnect the vacuum advance line and then check the timing at 3000 rpm.
That is the way it has always been done.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 116
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My carbed efi headed 300 can't have more than 2° base and 26ish total mechanical advance and forget about the vacuum advance it just causes extreme pinging. I assume this isn't not normal, anyone else have this issue with a points distributor?
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
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From: Boise, Idaho
That doesn't sound right at all.
Are you 100% sure your timing marks are right?
It sounds like your balancer might have slipped.
If you remove the #1 spark plug and turn the engine until you can visually see that the piston is at the very top, is the timing mark still at 0?
Are you 100% sure your timing marks are right?
It sounds like your balancer might have slipped.
If you remove the #1 spark plug and turn the engine until you can visually see that the piston is at the very top, is the timing mark still at 0?
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