Quick Easy Immobilizer
EDIT: Now that I think about it, the POS immobilizer that was just removed already tapped into the PCM circuitry somewhere based on the no WTS light in the other thread. It would be easy to put a switch or "key" of some sort in the circuit that was already interrupted by the insurance approved immobilizer.
The fault I find in it however is if there is ever a malfunction in the switch the truck dies. No matter where I am, no matter what I’m doing. Considering the winding mountain passes that I am constantly towing through this would not have a positive outcome.
A momentary switch to energize the circuit will be utilized.
Thankfully the previous immobilizer decided to die while parked in my shop not half way through the Fraser Canyon.
I will do a separate thread with a write up soon.
Just waiting for the bits to arrive from the jungle.
1. Before going through the trouble of wiring up a switch in the CPP circuit of an automatic truck, check with your insurance to see if that qualifies as an immobilizer.
Does your truck have the starter relay on the passenger fender? If so go to #2, if not go to #3.
2. When asking about the qualifications of an immobilizer, be sure to mention the starter relay being shorted with the ignition on with the help of a screwdriver will start the truck.
3. A failure of any critical system will result in a stalled vehicle. Be it in a parking lot or on a mountain pass. I get it, I count on my truck to be ready when I need it too. If done properly, a switch in a critical system can be reliable. Many FTE'rs and others have installed a kill switch in the IDM, IPR, CPS or PCM ground circuits as well as other creative ideas.
Some have multiple levels of critical system isolation.
Again, I am attempting to help you satisfy the immobilizer requirement in a way that does not give you a false sense of security. Unless I am misunderstanding the way you will wire up the CPP.
Good luck sir.

Everything ok Marv??

I’ve put versions of his disabler in several trucks over the years. His design used a double latching relay and a hidden reed switch to interrupt power to the IDM. This design used the factory remote keyless entry system to arm it and a magnet hidden in the key fob to disarm it.

Everything ok Marv??

I’ve put versions of his disabler in several trucks over the years. His design used a double latching relay and a hidden reed switch to interrupt power to the IDM. This design used the factory remote keyless entry system to arm it and a magnet hidden in the key fob to disarm it.
Trunk monkey, not drunk monkey...

The web site? Not-so-much.
Apparently GoDaddy made some changes, which "disabled" my site, and although I still have all the information and photos to put it back up, I'm not tech savvy enough to get that done.
Art Krewat told me what happened and what I needed to do, but it's stuff that I don't understand, so.......
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Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
1. Before going through the trouble of wiring up a switch in the CPP circuit of an automatic truck, check with your insurance to see if that qualifies as an immobilizer.
Q-Does the truck start when you turn the key?
A- No
Q- So a second step is involved for the truck to start?
A- Yes
“Then it qualifies as having an immobilizer “
Q- What are the implications if I no longer have an Immobilizer.
A- You have to declare it and your insurance premiums will go up.
Does your truck have the starter relay on the passenger fender? If so go to #2, if not go to #3.
2. When asking about the qualifications of an immobilizer, be sure to mention the starter relay being shorted with the ignition on with the help of a screwdriver will start the truck.
“This would be considered a second step”
3. A failure of any critical system will result in a stalled vehicle. Be it in a parking lot or on a mountain pass. I get it, I count on my truck to be ready when I need it too. If done properly, a switch in a critical system can be reliable. Many FTE'rs and others have installed a kill switch in the IDM, IPR, CPS or PCM ground circuits as well as other creative ideas.
I also count on my truck to be ready for the task asked of it.
The new switch wired in today will most likely be more reliable than the 21 year old part it’s intended to disable.
The switch relies on being turned off. Lazy, Forgetful, or both and it is useless.
The momentary on the starter circuit is Basically Foolproof. Must be activated to start and won’t cause a stall if it fails.
Some have multiple levels of critical system isolation.
Again, I am attempting to help you satisfy the immobilizer requirement in a way that does not give you a false sense of security. Unless I am misunderstanding the way you will wire up the CPP.
Good luck sir.
Anybody looking for a joyride or quick transportation will move along.
I am pleased to see you are happy and that your insurance premium will not go up!
The switch itself looks pretty good as does the plug. Based on Cody’s advice of 2amp being adequate I went with a 3amp 12vdc.
Not too impressed with the wire gauge though.
20 AWG. Going to check it out tomorrow and see if I can rewire the plug with 14.
I had contemplated going with a larger amp momentary which also would increase the size. A 10amp would be hard to hide.
Until a few blocks later.
I wish there were bait cars, bait catalytic converters, bait trucks, and in particular, bait Super Duties in every state of the Union.
And that every bait bust was well publicized.



















