Quick Easy Immobilizer
EDIT: I also have developed a very low tolerance for derelicts over the years.


Our gun laws are extremely stringent.
Only the criminals get away with it, and generally they only use them on each other.
Now I say that, but... Many years ago my parent's house was broken into and several firearms were stolen. IIRC 3 .44 Revolvers, a custom 1911, a .270 hunting rifle, and an SKS. One of the .44s was mine. Was keeping it in out camper at the hunting club so I'd have something to carry and shoot if I went down after work (no civilian firearms on that federal property), dad brought it home for safe keeping when the season ended. Hind sight it would have been safer at the hunting club. A few years later local cops were chasing a hood rat, still in the hood, when he pulled a gun out of his waste band and tossed it into the weeds while running. Not only was my revolver recovered (little worse for the wear) it still had the same ammo in it as when it was stolen. 3 or 4 years and it had never been fired. Happy to have my gun back and that it hadn't been used, but I'd almost rather they kept it and prosecuted for possession of stolen property.
Oops, my bad. They're the same thing.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Couple years ago I was doing a Reno in my bathroom. Found this buried in the floor.
Last weekend had a no start issue. Found this to be the culprit.
First picture was it installed. Second is well… disconnected.
No start is fixed.
The second find is a puzzle. How long had the truck with the "passive immobilizer" been in your possession, without you noticing an issue, prior to the recent no start occurrence?
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Back on topic...

For those with Autos who may not be familiar with what plugs into C261 when the jumper is removed from the harness connector shown in Post #1 (image callout #6 in parts drawing above), here is a look at the CPP switch assembly (image callout #5 in parts drawing above).
For those with factory wiring diagrams in the 99-01 range of years, refer to section 20-3 for wiring, and 20-4 for connector pin out (C261).
@cleatus12r makes an undeniable point about bridging the contacts on the fender mounted starter relay. I've had that relay (as well as the relay on the starter itself) covered up from view and/or quick access for years (and the Clifford alarm system has kept the truck in my driveway during an attempted theft). These measures are not enough to dissuade the determined... so I'm calling on our resident mad scientist @FordTruckNoob to develop some additional security solutions.
Also, remember the ‘plus one’ rule. Thief is rarely alone and his buddy is likely to take you out while you ‘detain’ him.
A local sheriff explained that if the thief attempts to run you over, that constitutes ‘in fear for your life’ and we could respond accordingly. He implied he really likes his truck and may stand in the way of it driving away. An attorney friend added to that the DA would ask why you’d put yourself in that position....
So, a good defensive tactic could be to have some steel targets in the yard. (It doesn’t hurt if the bullseyes are worn out!) A bit of late night target shooting from a safe location may encourage a potential thief to find another truck to steal.

If you live in the city, subdivision, unconstitutional state (or Canada) - I’m sorry about your limited options.
Specifically places like current Seattle, where the cops are literally NOT COMING if someone is attempting to steal from you. (Not life threatening)
The second find is a puzzle. How long had the truck with the "passive immobilizer" been in your possession, without you noticing an issue, prior to the recent no start occurrence?
I have searched for the receipt for the immobilizer install but to no avail. So I can’t confirm the exact timeline.
Never had a problem before until just last weekend when I went to move the truck out of my shop to give her a bath.
I get a discount on my comprehensive insurance (Fire / Theft) for the immobilizer being installed.
While cleaning up the spaghetti mess of wiring I noticed “Viola” the simple solution to create a no start that is easily reversible, hard to detect, and with a momentary switch basically foolproof. IE… I won’t forget to turn it off.
Just trying to decide on the right switch and placement before moving forward.
The starter relay is a hurdle when considering how to design a security feature, but it is easily overcome when a critical system of your choice is interrupted and the switch or restoration pricess of that system is hidden or tricky.
EDIT: Now that I think about it, the POS immobilizer that was just removed already tapped into the PCM circuitry somewhere based on the no WTS light in the other thread. It would be easy to put a switch or "key" of some sort in the circuit that was already interrupted by the insurance approved immobilizer.



















