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2005 6.0 no start

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Old Mar 31, 2022 | 02:06 PM
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2005 6.0 no start

Hello all, new guy here. I have a 05 f450 work truck, only options are ac and am/ fm with 6 speed standard. It currently has 330,000 miles on it. It's been running great till a couple weeks ago when I started having battery and charging issues. After 2 new batteries, alternator, and starter I found the actual problem. The charging system wasn't working right because the ground between the engine block and chassis was broken. I went to start it after fixing the ground and it fired a few times but then it just cranks and don't fire. It has a new Motorcraft ipr from a month ago when it quit going down the road. I have some readings from my forscan. These readings are while cranking:
ficm sync yes
ficm lpwr 8volts
ficm mpwr 48volts
​​ficm vpwr 7.5volts
icp psi. 1209
icp v. .25
Ipr. 85%
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jayflight69
ficm lpwr 8volts
​​ficm vpwr 7.5volts
icp v. .25
Ipr. 85%
Welcome to FTE!!!

Yur FICM lpwr & vpwr r low, should be 10.5+. R yur batteries fully charged, have you done a load test on each? Also yur ICP v r low, should be 0.8+. Yur IPR is high, should be 25-30%. Where did u buy the IPR?

There r other PIDs that need looked at also. Here is a great thread if u have not seen it. Post back questions, DTC's and the other PIDs bismic mentions. Keep them batteries fully charged durin troubleshootin, those low FICM volts r worrysome.

Troubleshooting a No-Start condition - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 08:48 AM
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The batteries were a little low from previous cranking. I bought th ipr from Ford. I'm also wondering if something could of fried from having the broken ground wire between engine block and frame. The last time I drove it, before I found the ground problem, it wouldn't start at the store about 10 miles away. When I tried to start it the starter just clicked. When I turned the key back to run the dash gouges and lights went crazy. When I turned the key off it kept doing it. I cycled the key on and off again and the dash went back to normal. Got a jump start and it ran fine to back home except turn signal lights didn't work right.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 09:10 AM
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You aren't going to start with the FICM VPWR at 7.5 volts. That should be the first thing to fix! If it is a wiring issue, then let us know what you find!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 10:10 AM
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Thanks guys, I'll run some more tests once it quits raining.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 10:29 AM
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Once the batteries are fully charged and good under load test, if the ficm still shows low voltage, does that mean I need a new ficm?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 10:36 AM
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Not necessarily, but it helps to see VPower AND LPower (in addition to MPower) when trying to identify a FICM issue.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 10:47 AM
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Ok, thanks.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 11:32 AM
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May also want to check all yur ground locations since u had a bad one, especially for the FICM.

 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 02:02 PM
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Had a bad battery, all changed and spins over nice and fast. But noticed no oil pressure on gage while cranking. I removed oil filter and cranked and no oil comes in the housing. Did my low pressure oil pump just die that fast?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 02:11 PM
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Check the LPOP regulator.

Also:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1481487-low-pressure-on-dash-oil-pressure-gauge-troubleshooting.html

https://youtu.be/ZyQA-8O5BEM
 
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Old Apr 1, 2022 | 03:46 PM
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Good news and bad news. Good news it runs. Bad news it had a little piece of metal in the oil pressure regulator. The piece looks like the same size that made the hole in the ipr I changed last month. I took a couple pics hope they show on here, I'm not very good at some of this tech stuff.


 
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Old Apr 2, 2022 | 05:46 AM
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I can't help you identify where the metal came from.

For the low voltage, there are three cable that share the path to the body tub ground plane.

The 8ga cable off the passenger battery negative terminal to the fender
The 12ga cable under the pass footwell, frame to body
The 12ga cable from the back of the engine block to the firewall by the heater box

Where there is a poor connection of the negative cable at the lower front of the engine block, any of these can get hurt, but it typically is the 12ga. The loss of any deminishes the voltage.

I highly recomend adding an 8ga cable from the driver's battery negative terminal to the ddriver's fender, preferably at least to the connection under the driver's side hood strut mount.
 
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