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Sadly that sounds like the next step. Have new O rings on hand.
Not sure it matters but which cylinder had the water?
There is no good reason to replace injector o-rings every time you pull an injector. DO replace copper washers as good practice though. If the o-rings are not damaged (cut/torn/etc) - they will be fine.
If the cups are not leaking, but coolant is getting in the crankcase - a cavitation-induced hole in cylinder wall is a possibility.... Not many places this can happen and high pressure (exhaust gasses) could explain failed radiator. With oil drained and plug out, see if water gets into pan when pressure testing cooling system.
This engine stops in one of (4) places each time you shut it off. When your cylinder to cooling passage leak is on a cylinder that is ‘UP’ at shutdown, the water/coolant can go directly into crankcase. If that cylinder is ‘DOWN’ the water would go into the combustion chamber and be pushed out GP hole when rotating the engine to evacuate cylinders as you described.
None of that sound good but I’ll fill it back up and see what happens. Was really hoping not to have to open up the engine again. So from what everyone thinks, would I be best to go ahead and pull the engine so I can test it on a stand and start tearing it down when I find the problem? Ive already got most of the engine bay disassembled for easy access.
You don’t know how true that is, and from the last rebuild. It was 6 years to the day from when I bought the truck when I pulled it in to swap injectors and glow plugs. Had coolant coming out of the glow plug bore after injectors then the glow plugs were removed. So rebuilt it and no issues till now. Never had any cross contamination of anything. I’ll be pulling the engine tomorrow to see what’s going on and hopefully find my issue. I’d imagine I can pull the pan then do a coolant system pressure test to see if it’s coming from a cylinder
You don’t know how true that is, and from the last rebuild. It was 6 years to the day from when I bought the truck when I pulled it in to swap injectors and glow plugs. Had coolant coming out of the glow plug bore after injectors then the glow plugs were removed. So rebuilt it and no issues till now. Never had any cross contamination of anything. I’ll be pulling the engine tomorrow to see what’s going on and hopefully find my issue. I’d imagine I can pull the pan then do a coolant system pressure test to see if it’s coming from a cylinder
I hate to hear this sort of thing, but am glad to hear you have the ability, knowledge and experience in this sort of task. We will be waiting and watching from afar and wish you the best of luck.
Should be able to get the engine out today. It won’t be as easy this time though, last time I was in a truck shop and was able to use the forklift to pull the engine. Hopefully will have a reasonable idea of what’s wrong by this evening. I’ll be sure to keep you all updated
Should be able to get the engine out today. It won’t be as easy this time though, last time I was in a truck shop and was able to use the forklift to pull the engine. Hopefully will have a reasonable idea of what’s wrong by this evening. I’ll be sure to keep you all updated
Forklift is not easier IMHO. I normally leave the header panel, grill, etc on too. Definitely leave the AC compressor and PS pump hooked up. Toss the AC compressor in the passenger battery tray and leave the PS pump bracket in the truck. I prefer to remove the up-pipes and definitely remove oil filter....
I left the ac all together and the power steering hooked up last time and this time when I pulled the engine. But I did pull the header panel both times. Engine crane wasn’t bad this time but I wish my driveway was a little smoother.
Since I said I’d keep you all updated, I started a new post, I found a cracked cylinder. When I dropped the pan I saw chunks. Fished them out and they’re pieces of a piston and the oiler nozzle for the piston. So now it’s time for me to figure out what I’m gonna do.
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