So, i guess either way can be done...

install cups, let cure, install injectors...

Or install cups, install injectors, let cure..

???

What is everyones pleasure?

 

I pressed the cups in and then quickly installed the injectors. Not sure if it’s right or wrong but I figured a torqued down injector might help seat the cups…

Man there’s a lot of folks having to change cups lately including myself. Not a fun job imo good luck take your time it’s pretty straight forward.

 

In addition to your questions, check out the link below and the subsequent posts after it.

Link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19784920

 

Ths @Sous I have no problem adding most adhesive. Leaning towards setting the injector immediately.... seems that would insure everything gets to be where its supposed to be and cure in place....

 

It takes a significant amount of force to install the cups. It is hard to imagine them backing out at all if you let them sit for a couple days to cure.

Also, as I recall, reinstalling the injectors involves putting some oil on the o-rings. Introducing that into a bore that has uncured sealant seems like a bad idea.

Here's what I did when I installed my stainless Riff Raff injector cups. It was in winter, so I wanted to get a little heat in there for a few days:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19070067

 

I see your point, however.... isnt the entire point of the cups to keep the inside/injectors seperate from the outside/coolant?
basically, if the oil on the o rings, can get to /effect the loc tight sealant.... dont you already have a pretty big problem?

 

I agree with this......120in lbs to tighten injectors vs 30ft lbs of torque to seat the cup. Just wait the 12hrs to let the Loctite cure and proceed. I have done this 4x without issue.

 

Is there any common mistakes that people make when installing cups? I know I would hate to do this job twice so figured it would be beneficial to the OP as well.

 

Take your time....take your time...take your time. Make sure you fully clean out the old Loctite.....I use a bore scope that attaches to my cellphone. It was nice to be able to pinpoint exactly where there was still crap in there. You run the risk of having to do it all over again if its not cleaned up.
Wait at least the full 12hrs for the Loctite to cure....outside temps make a difference, read the label.....dont rush it because you need the truck....better to wait when you have the time to do a good job, than to push for a quick finish.

You will see...once you get into it, its really not that difficult. I think my first time was riddled with anxiety too. Just pay attention to the details and take your time.

 

I was referring to uncured sealant. Introducing oil into uncured sealant might inhibit the cure. I don't know this for sure, but it seems like a good idea to keep them separate until the sealant is cured.


When you think you have everything clean enough, clean it again. Use acetone.

Get yourself a borescope and tape it to a screwdriver as shown in my link. Use that for inspection and cleaning.

My first injector cup job failed because I used a cheap torque wrench which was WAY off. It turns out that I had severely undertorqued the hold-down bolts. A couple cups backed themselves out.

So the second time around I used brake cleaner to thoroughly clean out the bores for the hold-down bolts, and the bolts themselves. Then I applied high-temperature Loctite to each bolt as I put them in, and I used an electronic torque wrench to torque each of them.

Lots of people advocate for hot-torquing the bolts. While I think that might be a good idea, I didn't do it. I figure these trucks rolled from the factory without being hot-torqued, and ran for hundreds of thousands of miles that way. Right now I am putting my faith in the Loctite.

 

P.S. do the fifty-cent mod while you are under the valve covers, it's pretty important.

 

If you let the cup loctite cure prior to installing the injectors, you might want to pressure test the coolant system before moving on to the injectors.

Regarding hot torque, I believe others when they say they noticed a difference, but when I was under the valve covers at about 240,000 miles I left the hold down bolts alone.

Below is a recent thread on the subject and some information from Ford regarding hold down bolt torque.

Link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...from-ford.html