My 2017 F250 has the Rough Country 2" leveling kit blocks and track bar bracket on them. It doesn't sit fully level and has a slight rake. I'm wanting to put Roadmaster Active Suspension on my truck and that'll raise the back even higher and make my rake worse. Can I use Bilstein 5100 shocks and the RC Leveling kit to raise the front end higher to get it level after I put the RAS on it? Will this mess up the geometry of my truck?

 

this is very common....level the front...something changes on the back...now, relevel the front....parts that were used for the 1st level might not be best for the second level, etc.

best bet is do the road master install and find out the net change...then contact rough country for the correct start from scratch front correction kit.

true you can do a front end patch job (add a under coil if you started with and over coil or vs versa) but these patch jobs dont operate as smooth.

the track bar bracket comes in different lift ranges so you might be good there if the range falls within where you need to be.

 

I have a 2” leveling kit with Bilstein 5100 shocks on the front and back. Sits Pretty level now.

 

I wouldn't try to persuade you one way or the other on this, it all comes down to understanding what you want the truck to do, and what effects your modifications will have. Understand that when you level the truck, you're changing the way the weight is distributed to the axles. Unladen in adverse conditions biasing more weight to the rear has a positive effect (because the vehicle is already so front heavy) , pulling a John Deere 4020 down the highway, not so much. Just understand that if you put a significant tongue weight on a leveled truck vs an unleveled one, the steering/brakes will get loose MUCH faster. It's amazing how much a few inches can make a difference. That being said, helper springs or air bags in the rear will counteract this effect entirely so it's nothing that can't be worked around with a little ingenuity. I'm speaking from experience here: I used drive a stock F250 (adamantly, because lifted trucks are stupid). After getting fed up with getting a bumper full of sod and dirt every time I had to access a certain 20ac parcel of my farm, I lifted the truck 4.5 in and fitted it with 35s (and 4.55s). Life was great (and the truck looked bitchin') until I hitched up my 7000# deckover trailer to go pick up a 14,000# tractor and drive it back... in the rain. Pretty sure I crapped my pants at lease twice. All that weight on the rear axle of a truck that's already leveled just makes the front end float all over the place, and the brakes pretty much just say "f*******ck you" when you try to stop. Not long after that, I slapped some airbags on it (the cheap kind that I inflate with my compressor, nothin fancy) and now I've got a pretty good set up: I no longer eat dirt on the farm, but I can still pull my equipment over the road without the certainty of imminent death. It's still a PITA to get up into, and that's still an extra 6" to have to lift heavy stuff up into the bed, but I'm okay with that. Sometimes compromises have to be made, and that's okay.

 

What are you going for? Perfectly level without any load on the back? But doesn't squat when you hook up a trailer?
I don't have much experience, but from everything I have read on here... 2" is the absolute max you should level the truck without a full on lift kit that has proper relocation....everything. I have 1.5" level pucks on the front, roadmaster active suspension cranked to the max, and then timbren "bump stops". With 1500# tongue weight, it really doesn't sag much. Almost looks level, but more importantly, drives like a dream. No pucker factor. Also installed new castor shims to help with floaty steering.

It seems like eliminating rake is pretty important to you. I think air bags may be the best option for you.

 

I believe those are 18's. if you look at my pickup those are 20's with 295 tires. the 20's do fill the wells up better but the 18"s look fine in my opinion.

 

My truck just has the standard F250 rear springs and I'm wanting to add RAS to them, to eliminate the sag when I'm pulling my 3-horse slant trailer. Being a '17, the leveling kit didn't fully eliminate the rake and If I tighten the RAS to 40%, it'll make the rake even worse. Yes, I know rake is set that way, by the factory, to level it out when towing, but I don't like the looks of it. I sure don't want to mess anything up in the front end, so I'll just leave it as it is and live with it. It already sits so high with the FX4 package and 35's, cranking up the RAS to 40% is going to get me into some clearance issues with my horse trailer!

 

Another inexpensive option with great results is Timbren SES. They don't change the height of the rear end, but engage when loaded to reduce sag and improve towing performance. Install in your driveway in like 5 minutes. Just two bolts.