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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

1990 E150 5.8L Vacuum

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Old Jan 27, 2022 | 09:04 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
I am still able to find all three types of canister at the wrecking yards in my area
New ones are not expensive either but nobody has one right now
The problem is always the mounting and I like stock placement or OEM parts
The older truck coffee can type ones break the bolts off when you remove the inner fender panel for other repairs
I find the exact replacement for my clients but any one you find or want to use will work
All they do is hold some vacuum on reserve for wide open throttle when no vacuum is present
Supplies to the HVAC and in the old days the transmission vacuum modulator
Defrost is the default mode for if the hvac system if it looses vacuum
So if your plastic canister cracks or your coffee can rusts out you will have defrost only
I have all modes working on the blower. No problem switching from defrost to vent or floor but the vacuum canister has huge holes in it. Mind you, I do not have a working AC system right now also, switching from defrost to other positions is just sitting in the driveway so maybe once under load on the road, it may default to defrost I'm not sure. I plan on getting it fixed when I go to re-install the rear gas tank. At that time I'll have the engine cowl off also, to check the wires, plugs and injectors to try to figure out why it has a slight miss and why I lose power like it's stuck in some kind of limp mode. I can't hardly make it to 55mph on flat surface and going up hills I literally have to pump the accelerator to keep it from dropping below 35mph.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 04:55 AM
  #17  
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Check the exhaust for being plugged (the converter) next time you drive it (start it)
Use a vacuum gauge
Gauge installed read the vacuum 15 inches lets say (does not matter the actual reading)
You floor the gas WOT the gauge drops to zero momentarily on a good exhaust then picks right back up to 15
If Your exhaust is plugged the gauge will never get back to 15 inches at WOT and will hover around 8 inches
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 05:31 AM
  #18  
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From: IL
Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
Check the exhaust for being plugged (the converter) next time you drive it (start it)
Use a vacuum gauge
Gauge installed read the vacuum 15 inches lets say (does not matter the actual reading)
You floor the gas WOT the gauge drops to zero momentarily on a good exhaust then picks right back up to 15
If Your exhaust is plugged the gauge will never get back to 15 inches at WOT and will hover around 8 inches
Isn't clogged exhaust something that happens gradually? this started suddenly, on the way home from work one day.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 10:14 PM
  #19  
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No, it can happen suddenly if the converter substrate breaks up
Gets me thinking though
Go smack the cat(s) around some with your clenched hand and see if it (they) rattle inside indicating it is broken up inside
Sounds like you might have a miss Mike
A plugged exhaust engine will run fine until the rpm increases and some fuel is put to it
Then it cannot exhaust all the combustion so the engine slows down
You might have a miss and or a bad fuel pump
I just wanted you to check the exhaust because that is a common cause of your symptom
 
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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 06:57 AM
  #20  
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From: IL
Originally Posted by manicmechanic007
No, it can happen suddenly if the converter substrate breaks up
Gets me thinking though
Go smack the cat(s) around some with your clenched hand and see if it (they) rattle inside indicating it is broken up inside
Sounds like you might have a miss Mike
A plugged exhaust engine will run fine until the rpm increases and some fuel is put to it
Then it cannot exhaust all the combustion so the engine slows down
You might have a miss and or a bad fuel pump
I just wanted you to check the exhaust because that is a common cause of your symptom
Thanks for the tip, when it warms up a little I'll jack it up and get to the converter.
 
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