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So I just bought a 1974 f100 like two weeks ago it was running fine drive it a hour home no problem just some small things that needed to be looked at like the break lights not working and some other electrical things nothing with how it ran
then one day I ran it out of gas I filled it up ran for about a mile and then it started running like crap. I hit the gas it would fall on it’s face and also had a high idle . I read some stuff that lead me to think it was the float sticking or a vacuum leak so I put my big girl pants on and pulled the carb off pulled it apart made sure the Needle was sealing right it was. Upon putting it back together and putting it on the the truck realized that I did not take off any vacuum lines and upon further inspection there were no vacuum lines hooked up at all mind you I have been driving this thing for a week back and fourth to work. It was running perfectly until I ran the tank dry
can some one help I can fix pretty much any thing but this is my first time owning a older Ford and I am not sure what I need to have hooked up or not I am just at a loss. Every picture I look at and every YouTube video I watch everting looks different
First I would take a fuel can and a place it on a stool near the drivers side front tire and run a soft fuel line from the fuel can to the fuel pump and see if that resolves the issue. If it does next we look at everything from the fuel pump back.
Every vehicle that is of this era has soft fuel lines that are absolutely inadequate for Ethanol fuel, It has been shown they break down internally. So replace the the soft lines and their respective clamps. Post back with any progress or questions.
No vacuum lines at all, or just not hooked to the carburetor? There is a gang vacuum feed on the intake, only the distributor vacuum advance can needs to hook to the carb ported vacuum.
Well I haven’t got back to the break lights yet but I got all the parts for what I think it it is I am going to replace one of the light sockets and the switch on the pedal and see if that works
And yes there are no vacuum lines hooked up the little 4 way thing on the back of the intake that looks like a Xmas tree well it looks tike Charlie Brown got it Absolutely nothing on it the vacuum adavance on the distributor is just run under the fender and looks like it has never been hooked up there is nothing running to the carb other than fuel lines
I am going to try hooking up the distributor line and see if that helps along with the gas can trick to see if that would help
I would work on 1 thing at a time like lets get it running and go from there on the vacuum lines.
BTW when you get to the vacuum lines take a picture or 2 of what you have going on.
Your motor may only have 2 or 4 vacuum hoses.
Carb to dist for vacuum advance
Intake to power brakes if you have power brakes.
Intake to transmission if you have an auto transmission
base of carb or intake to valve cover with PCV in it
Intake to inside cab? for HVAC
They are the ones I know you NEED for everything to work as it should to use the truck.
Dave ----
I agree that’s why the brake parts are still in the boxes lol I don’t have power breaks and it is a three on the tree that has been converted to the floor this is what I got
I am at a loss I have worked on it all day I bought the repair manuals today to go through and try to see if they tell me what I need to have hooked and not hooked up and where I need to set the float. After reading for about 8 hours lol I trying the external gas can to make sure it was sucking gas and it was but it was still pushing gas out of the accelerator pump like it was flooded. I pulled the carb broke it down and double checked the float level made sure there was no crapola in the bowl and also removed the jets and cleaned them out with a needle put it all back together. With all the hope and Xmas spirt in my heart started it up same exact thing the choke won’t open when at temp and still high idle and face smashing when I hit the gas and it is still spiting out the accelerator pump any ideas cause I am out of them
Last edited by Ford tattoo guy; Dec 19, 2021 at 05:30 PM.
First, there are many here that started our journey exactly where you are and through a lot of patience and perseverance and plenty of help and guidance from this forum have eventually achieved Ford nirvana. Hang in there and keep posting your progress and questions and I'm certain you'll have success and have some fun while getting there.
Your carb is a motorcraft / autolite 2150, One of the best carbs ever made. The choke to work properly requires both a 7 volt DC feed and a hot air heat stove connection from the intake or exhaust manifold to work properly and completely. The flooding that's occurring can be a few things like a stuck needle valve or a blown power valve. I would replace both as a starting point or send yours out to be rebuilt by a professional depending on your skill level for this work rather than buying a rebuild.The vacuum connections is again a exercise in patience, Do you have a points distributor or a Duraspark distributor ?
I have points right now but I ordered one of the electronic point conversion kits with a new flame thrower coil it should be in tomorrow
I believe I could replace the power valve I have always been really good with carbs so I will go ahead and order the stuff so you think I should go ahead and get a full rebuild kit to just start off fresh so I know everything is new
Last edited by Ford tattoo guy; Dec 19, 2021 at 07:49 PM.
I have points right now but I ordered one of the electronic point conversion kits with a new flame thrower coil it should be in tomorrow
I believe I could replace the power valve I have always been really good with carbs so I will go ahead and order the stuff so you think I should go ahead and get a full rebuild kit to just start off fresh so I know everything is new
Yes on the rebuild but before you choose to rebuild yours I would test for vacuum leaks at the throttle shaft that passes through the body and where the the fuel mixture screws mount in the body to determine if you have a worthy rebuild candidate. The best way to test for vacuum leaks at the mentioned spots is with a can of WD 40 with the straw nozzle attached, spraying the areas mentioned while the motor is running noting any increases in RPM's. Attaching a RPM meter to the motor while doing the test will help better identify smaller increases in RPM's. Post back with any progress or ?'S
So had a super productive day I installed new fuel pump. Replace the points with a electronic set up and a new flame thrower coil. I hooked up the vacuum line to the distributor and the truck is running like a champ the choke is still staying closed and it is still spitting a little fuel out the accelerator pump but it is no longer falling on it’s face when you hit the gas. it is running the best it has sense I have owned it. There is one question I have what is this fitting it had some vapors coming out of it after running for a little bit
I also got the brake lights fixed the only thing I got to do before I can get it inspected is replace the turn signal switch one the column and the reverse light switch on the transmission
needless to say I am one fat and happy Ford tattoo guy
There is one question I have what is this fitting it had some vapors coming out of it after running for a little bit
That is a vacuum port, and a vacuum leak. You can buy rubber caps which go on there, but they suck. I usually just use a short length of vacuum hose, with a screw or something stuck in the other end.
buy good rubber caps, I just bought a pack from chinazon, they appear to be working perfectly.
The screw trick works ok and I like to keep golf tees in my tool bag/box for this reason too but...
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