hmmm ok. Good to know thanks

 

Not entirely true. There are a few chips that you can use to tune the ecm. One is the Quarter horse that plugs into the J3 port on the ECM https://www.moates.net/quarterhorse-...rds-p-199.html and the TwEECer https://www.tweecer.com/ , but yes there is a need for software if you want to mess with the tune.

It can be done, but is not necessarily cheap, and there is a huge learning curve for sure.

 

Moates & Tweecer aren't really in the realm of just chips. Which is what most folk diving into OBS modding for the first time are led to think.

 

Moates 'F3v2' is a chip that you write your tune to, nothing else needed.
Quarterhorse is a real time tuning and data logging device, software required.
Create your tune with Quarterhorse and software, then write it to the F3 chip.

 

If your getting a brand new cam, follow the manufactures recommendations for lifters and springs.
My guess is that any aftermarket camshaft will require different springs than stock.

Also, you cannot just assume the original push rods will work. You MUST check pushrod length after camshaft and heads are installed.

 

I wonder if they finally discontinued the 444232. If that's the case, that is a real shame. I've got the one on a shelf still, I'll have to take good care of it now.

That cam that Conanski suggested is the next best option.

 

I'm familiar with both & how they work. Also know the # of shops that actually handle both were never that big to start with & with advent of later, easier vehicles & tech, they have gotten smaller.

 

So assemble and turn over by hand to be sure everything clears?

 

Absolutely, yes.
A different profile camshaft will require different rated springs.
How do you know what the spring rate is of the current engine you have? Previous owner may have swapped out parts in the past.
Incorrect springs, too soft and you will get valve float at higher RPM. Too hard and you wear the camshsft.
Incorrect spring height can cause coil bind.

Different profile camshaft may or may not require different pushrods, you have to measure preload and set correctly. If not checked, you either run too loose or too tight.
Too loose you will have lots of top end noise and will wear parts quicker. Too tight and valves maybe open when they should be closed and will wear parts quicker.

Really depends on what base circle size your stock cam has, and what base circle size the aftermarket cam will have.
You cannot trust the parts you order, or the documents, you must measure it all to be 100% satisfied the parts will work together.
Follow the instructions that are included with the aftermarket camshaft.

 

thanks for all the info! Back in the day I’d just throw a cam and lifters in, line up the dots on the timing and she was good to go….. not to mention that was twenty years ago.