Not sure what year your truck is but my '01 PSD required an SW-6350 Motorcraft switch. Got it on Amazon for about $20 recently. Definitely replace with the required part for your year/model. It'll be needed regardless of what else might need fixing. I believe the issue is more of a continuity issue & not voltage. As far as the test, you are on the right track with jumpering, just make sure you are getting good contact. If the fuse link is in place, follow it down & you should find the original factory connector. You can try jumpering there to eliminate a problem at the fuse link.

There's a vehicle speed sensor, probably on the differential, that may also need attention.

Another issue that crops up (from what I hear) is the clock spring in the steering wheel. Sometimes the buttons as well.

There's threads on all these items around the PSD forums. I've read a bunch on the problem and just got the 6350 switch. My CC would cut out arbitrarily while in use, sometimes when hitting bumps. I jumpered and it seems to work, I'll get the switch installed & monitor afterwards. It's, from what I understand, the most common issue.

HTH

 

Thanks for the reply. The truck in question is a 2002 with the V-10. While I know the switch is bad simply from the fact that it is leaking brake fluid, I thought I would get CC working by bypassing the switch with a jumper. This attempt did not work however. I am pretty sure my clockspring is fine because when I ran the self diagnostic by holding the off button and turning the ignition to the run position, I was able to get the dash indicator light for the CC to come on with the press of every button. Not physically knowing where the fusable link is on the harness, I thought I'd check for voltage at the disconnect switch. If I do have a short (actually an open circuit) I could at least determine if it is upstream or downstream of the disconnect switch. What I don't know is if I can check for voltage with the ignition in the run position, if the vehicle has to be running, if the vehicle has to be running with the CC on button pushed, or vehicle running, CC on puched, and above 35mph. IE I am trying to determine the criteria for when there would be voltage at the disconnect switch.
Hope this clarifies things.
I know there are multiple inputs the CC must see to work properly. A few months ago I went through the entire front end on this truck including new wheel bearing units on both sides. Brother in law said after I did that the ABS light went out and the CC was working. The new bearing units appeared to correct both those issues. While it could be the rear diff speed sensor or one of the relatively new front modular bearing assemblies, I am doubting it as I am not picking anything up an a scanner.
Thanks again for the help.

 

Problem solved. Thanks for everyone who helped and for this great site!
Turns out this truck did have a recall update done in 2006. It did have a fusible pigtail on it but between how it was wrapped and tucked, it looked like the original harness. Apparently when the recall was administered, if the BPP wasn't leaking at the time, they used a different pigtail with a spade type fuse in the pigtail. (That's what they told me at my local Ford dealer at least) It definitely looks different than the fusible link pigtail shown in one of the previous posts in this thread. I don't recall the exact part number off the top of my head, but for a new BPP switch and fusible link pigtail from ford, it came to $24.98 with tax. Now I have no codes when I run the self diagnostic and the CC works great!

 

Good to hear, grizzly. I've had my part for a while now but just got around to installing this afternoon. I don't drive her much, and now that my boat is down with ignition issues, I haven't driven at all. My harness has the ATC fuse inline so I now have 2 adapter leads on top of the factory connector, tie wraps abound!

Of course, now that I've installed the switch, new headlight and parking lenses... The heater core has sprung a leak, LOL! Gotta love it...

 

2001 f250 v10 no cruise. Light comes on but no cruise.
Did test and all buttons work.
Horn works.
Hope you guys have some ideas since I have searched all over the web for similar symptoms and solutions. Thanks guys!

 

Hi bluebird, have you tried the cruise cutout switch bypass test yet?

 

Is that the one where you jumper the wires on the master cylinder sensor? If so, no. I ran out of daylight and gave up.

 

Yup, when you get time, yank the connector & jump the pins. A piece of 16ga (+/-) fairly stiff stranded wire or putting a couple small spades on the ends of a piece of wire will get that job done. Give that a try & check back.

I should note that it's the one at the far end of the master cylinder, there's 2

 

Nope. That didn't work. Whats weird, like I stated above, is that the light DOES come on. As if everything is working fine.

 

Interesting... You may want to try another inexpensive replacement, your Vehicle Speed Sensor (around $20). It's either gonna be on your rear differential or your tranny, others more familiar with the V10 may know for sure. It's pretty easy to investigate. From what I've heard, if you have an auto trans the OD light on the shifter fails in that case, but I'm not totally certain on that.

Replacing the cut-out switched worked here, so far so good, had it out for a cruise today.

 

i am also having the same issue but i have a tpms light on and my cruise control works when i do not reset it and doesnt work when i do reset it.
i am taking it in weds to have the sensor changed hopefully that will solve my issue.

 

I'm not sure how the tire pressure would affect the cc, but if you got the sensors, they might as well be in working order.

In general, I've seen that bypassing the cruise control cutout switch is the primary test.

If you have a gas truck you may also want to get an ODB2 printout to see if any other codes are hiding in there. A NAPA, Autozone or similar should be able to do that for you for nothing. Diesel trucks need fancier code readers, that'll probably cost you at a dealership or a shop.

 

I'm not sure either but that's my only experience with it so far with it working and not working I just got the truck on the second and hopefully the sensors are the only thing tripping the code.
And it is a diesel
Thanks

 

Have you tried the CCCS bypass yet?

 

Welcome to the forum, technician911. Are you having your local Ford Dealership replace your sensor? What's the truck's model year/mileage? I'll hang around here to see how things go on Wednesday.

Crystal