cruise control not working
#31
01-09-2004, 03:12 AM
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Krometoez- I am starting to see a pattern with my gremlins. When we have a couple of days of steady rain, that is when my problems begin. I have discovered a water leak running down the l/h windshield post. When the carpet mat gets wet, then things start going wrong. Don't know yet if it's the windshield(which was replaced just prior to my purchase) or the door seals. Will keep you posted.
#32
02-14-2010, 10:39 AM
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I realize these are all OLD postings but, let's give it a shot anyway.
I have a '97 Econoline 150 and my cruise doesn't work at all, I've checked the fuses (speed control and horn, everything ok). Now, it had an alarm and remote start in it and I had it swapped out with a new unit, could the wiring to the brake light switch have anything to do with this?
I have a '97 Econoline 150 and my cruise doesn't work at all, I've checked the fuses (speed control and horn, everything ok). Now, it had an alarm and remote start in it and I had it swapped out with a new unit, could the wiring to the brake light switch have anything to do with this?
#34
06-17-2010, 09:03 PM
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#35
09-06-2010, 06:58 PM
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Also having cruise problems
So I noticed today I lost the use of my cruise control.
After reading bigdawg's test procedure, it gave me a code 3... whatever that means....
I opened the hood and thought I would check the pressure sensor that was mentioned and found this.....
What the heck is it?
I should mention, I just had the truck into the dealer for a complete front brake job, exhaust manifold studs, and axle seals....
It seems that they plugged a new harness in, but it isnt hooked to anything, the old plug is just laying there.... should they be plugged together and do you think that might solve my no-cruise issue?
Thanks
After reading bigdawg's test procedure, it gave me a code 3... whatever that means....
I opened the hood and thought I would check the pressure sensor that was mentioned and found this.....
What the heck is it?
I should mention, I just had the truck into the dealer for a complete front brake job, exhaust manifold studs, and axle seals....
It seems that they plugged a new harness in, but it isnt hooked to anything, the old plug is just laying there.... should they be plugged together and do you think that might solve my no-cruise issue?
Thanks
#36
09-06-2010, 08:06 PM
Senior User
After doing another search on google for codes, I came up with this from another ford forum.
*cruise control self test*
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel
will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
I should note that after a little reckless bravery, I decided to hook the 2 plugs I showed together and perform the test, which gave a 'pass'. Then took it for a drive and the cruise works again. Just thought I would post my findings for anyone's future reference.
*cruise control self test*
Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel
will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.
I should note that after a little reckless bravery, I decided to hook the 2 plugs I showed together and perform the test, which gave a 'pass'. Then took it for a drive and the cruise works again. Just thought I would post my findings for anyone's future reference.
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#37
09-06-2010, 09:07 PM
Postmaster
Heh heh... good one, I like that term. 
Congrats on getting yours working again. Mine has been a real PITA. I've used the test procedure and replaced the switch in your pics and then the brake pedal switch (per the test results) still with no luck. I went through the test procedure in the manual and it says I need to replace the servo. I forget what the dealer wants but its in the $300 range. If I ever get time I'm going to buy one from a truck recycler or something and try it.
Congrats on getting yours working again. Mine has been a real PITA. I've used the test procedure and replaced the switch in your pics and then the brake pedal switch (per the test results) still with no luck. I went through the test procedure in the manual and it says I need to replace the servo. I forget what the dealer wants but its in the $300 range. If I ever get time I'm going to buy one from a truck recycler or something and try it.
#38
11-05-2010, 07:16 AM
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passed self diagnostic
i used the self diagnostic test and it passed, still have to check the speed sensor, what mine is doing is i push the cruise "set/accel" button and it flashes momentarily but that's it, every time i push it the same thing happens i have a 2000 f-250, v-10, super-crew, 196000 miles, has anybody else had the same problem? CORRECTION!!!! today i went out and checked it again and it shows three flashes (deactivator open or not functioning) can anybody tell me where the deactivator switch is? is it the brake pedal switch?
Last edited by doo71dene; 11-05-2010 at 05:31 PM. Reason: found more problems
#39
11-05-2010, 05:36 PM
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this is a fusible link they installed due to a recall, something about brake fluid leaking onto the wires and shorting out, had a buddy whose truck burnt up because of it! i think my cc problem might have something to do with this because my cc light on the instrument cluster would flash momentarily when i pushed the set button and after i moved these wires around now it don't do anything
#40
11-22-2010, 12:33 AM
#41
02-05-2011, 08:44 PM
Ran the test. The Off and On buttons worked but the others did not. I'm assuming those buttons/switches (coast, resume and set/decel) are bad???
Before it went totally out, the cruise light would come on and then intermitent, then totally out.
Is it an easy replacement? Will it interfere with my air bag if I start replacing the switches? Do I need a whole new sterring wheel/air bag,etc...? Any help appreciated.
__________________________________________________ ________________________
2002 XLT 4X4 Super Duty 5.4L
Before it went totally out, the cruise light would come on and then intermitent, then totally out.
Is it an easy replacement? Will it interfere with my air bag if I start replacing the switches? Do I need a whole new sterring wheel/air bag,etc...? Any help appreciated.
__________________________________________________ ________________________
2002 XLT 4X4 Super Duty 5.4L
#43
05-12-2011, 03:57 PM
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Mine is givin' me FITS! Changed the sensor on the rear diff, changed the "release switch" on the master, today I changed the switches on the steering wheel -- still nothing. I tried the "hold off button, turn key on" test and I get NOTHING! My horn works all the time, my brake lights work all the time, my ABS light comes on periodically. Should I just jack up the radiator cap and slide a new van under it?
#44
08-02-2011, 07:16 PM
#45
09-02-2011, 03:00 PM
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Love this place!!
Cruise stopped working on Wednesday.
Spent Thursday 'readin' up' and pulled the connector off the disconnect switch on the master cylinder, jumpered out the connector, and voila, cruise works.
This morning headed over to Ford, got the new switch (which also comes with another pigtail to plug into the recall pigtail) and after 20 minutes had it changed out. Tested: all good.
Thanks everyone!!
Mike
Cruise stopped working on Wednesday.
Spent Thursday 'readin' up' and pulled the connector off the disconnect switch on the master cylinder, jumpered out the connector, and voila, cruise works.
This morning headed over to Ford, got the new switch (which also comes with another pigtail to plug into the recall pigtail) and after 20 minutes had it changed out. Tested: all good.
Thanks everyone!!
Mike