, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
what switch is it?
mine just quite last week,no abs light or anyother light.the cruise light comes on when i hit the set button and goes out when the brake or off switch is hit but no cruise.changed the switch on the end of the master,and nothing.run the test all the buttons work and i can hear the motor kick on.

 

I have the same issue with my '07 F-250. Mine started with the CC not working - light not illuminating at all 4 weeks ago, and the airbag light started flashing 3 times and then 2 times then will remain on. I just replaced my MC Brake switch thinking that would be the quick fix for the CC, but still no workie. Were you able to get your Airbag light to go out and CC to work again??

 

Mine also gets the 3 flashes, (deactivator open or not functioning). Where would I find this fusable link that doo71dene mentions?

Also, for those who don't get any flashes after pressing ON, be sure to press the resume IMMEDIATELY, as the instructions state. At first I wasn't fast enough and assumed the righthand switch was bad.

 

I have a 2002 f250 with a V10 cruise doen't work

A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

OK, I have the following after doing the mentioned test. Pretty easy to do, Thanks.

Where is the BPP switch? It is an automatica transmission so I wouldn't think it is a CPP switch.

Picture would be greatly appreciated. I can fix anything if I can see it first.

 

I have a '97 E150 (5.4L w/E4OD). My cruise control hasn't worked since I got it, I've replaced the switches on steering wheel and the release switch on the master cylinder and still nothing.

I just bought an Equus Innova 3150 scanner that does OBDII, CANII, ABS, and Trans codes. It can up with a code for the brake switch, would this affect the Cruise Control? Just thinking maybe because it does disengage the cruise when you depress the pedal.

Any ideas?

I've tried the test mentioned here (pressing the switches in sequence) and get nothing.

 

Well That didn't work. I replaced the BPP switch (Easy job 10 minutes max). I still have the same 2 flashes at the end of the test sequence.

I guess I will try the cruise control deactivator switch on the Master Cylinder. Do you guys know if I will have to bleed the brakes when I am finished with the replacement?

 

No, you won't have to if you're fast! I had my new one ready to go in right as I was taking the old one out. I only lost a few drops of brake fluid doing the swap.

The bad new is, that didn't fix mine.

Based on the troubleshooting section of the shop manual, my problem is the cruise control servo

 

Hi All-

I had started another thread before I found this one.
Having intermittent CC problems here on my '01 F250 7.3 turbo. My cruise will work when it wants to, engaging most the time but will quit on bumps or even sometimes with no apparent jarring. It occasionally seems to be temperature sensitive but it's hard to say as I've only had it since last December.

Today is the first time I dedicated any time to troubleshooting it. From what I'm gathering, the CC cuts out at the same time as the brake lights firing. My brake lights come on with as little as 1/8" pedal movement, VERY sensitive! Could it just be the "mercury switch" type of switch under the dash at the pedal or would the pressure switch at the end of the master cylinder also cause this? I've tried the CC self-test, never got the CC lamp to light, and I KNOW that bulb works.

It would be handy for it to work properly, sometimes long trips trailering the bass boat can leave my legs numb, LOL...

Thanks
Karl

 

Ok I got 2 flashes I tried replacing BPP still doesn't work. Still get two flashes. It's automatic so that eliminates CPP. Where do I start for circuit is defective?

 

My problem: No brakes lights, no rear running lights, no directional's in the rear and cruise control effected by this as well.

I have headlights and everything wks up front and dome lights. If I use a directional it blinks quickly but not in the rear of the truck. Cargo brake light works, tail lights are very dim. Cruise control wks sometimes but noticed if it is working and I put the directional on, the cruise control will shut off and not wk again for a while.

I've changed bulbs, fuses, and the flasher switch under the drivers side dash near the brake pedal and the other flasher on drivers side all the way to the left connected to the dash board which Napa Auto parts has all. Nothing worked. Took it to a Mechanic and he said he thought it was from a trailer brake I had installed about 5 mths ago and the problem was in the steering wheel because of the directional's and cruise control are there.This was not it.

Turns out I took it to the place that installed the brake for my horse trailer. And the problem was a short in the ground wire people.

Yes, this pain in the you know what for a whole wk trying to figure this out is due to the ground wire being shorted out. He just disconnected the old ground and ran a new ground wire and all it working GREAT!!!! He charged me only for the labor $85.00

I read about this on Google and it says Ford is known for grounds shorting out and suggests to check one that supposedly is behind a kick panel on the drivers side. I didn't get to check this but its worth checking if your having issues but if you can fix this your self. Your way ahead of the game Good luck and I hope this works for you.

 

Just now jumping in on this thread after replacing the sensor on the master cylinder. Cruise is still out - no codes, no lights. I tried the test, holding the buttons down and turning the key, but I don't get anything - no lights at all. I do not have an ABS light on, horn works, brake lights work, everything is good to go, except for the cruise. I also bought a rear diff speed sensor but the connector is wrong. Not sure what the deal is there, but the connector I bought is a Motorcraft, so it should be plug and play but it's not. Anyone else have that issue? Is there a different speed sensor for early and late model 05s?

 

Hey Bill I am having the exact same issue on my 2002 f250 v10. I have replaced the speed control valve on the master cylinder and do not get any codes when I do the test.

 

Gremlins....

TSummar - did you have your truck repaired with the recall? Supposedly they didn't replace the switch with that recall, but they did put a fuse in the line, which would short if the sensor had brake fluid leak into it. I'm thinking that the recall covered up to 2003/04 trucks, so yours might have that fuse issue. Mine doesn't have a fuse at all, either in the line or in the fuse box, so I'm not sure which direction to go now.

 

From what I gather, the test doesn't work on diesel trucks. My code reader doesn't do much of anything either. I'm gonna just start replacing things...

 

Hi all, working on in-laws truck, and found this wonderful site with a little searching. Thanks to the info in this thread, I was able to run the self diagnostic. Came up with trouble code 3. I pulled the electrical connector off of the BPP switch (Cruise Disconnect Switch) on the end of the master cylinder and sure enough it was full of brake fluid and the wires were saturated. My understanding is this is a normally closed circuit and opens when it sees brake pressure. I jumpered the two wires at the connector to the BPP switch (disconnected from the switch of course) and still no CC. I believe there should be voltage at one of the two wires at the BPP switch connector. What is that voltage, is there only power when the cruise "on" button is pushed, or do I have to be above the 35 or so MPH and hit the set button to see voltage at the BPP switch? I have a sneaking suspicion, the wires have finally shorted out somewhere and I am not getting any voltage to this point. The CC did work a few months ago. There is no pigtail with a fusible link near the BPP switch, however there was a blue tag saying something to the effect of a non serviceable fusible link somewhere in the harness. I am assuming this had the recall update due to the blue tag. My next questions would be where is the fusible link physically located?


Thanks in advance for the help.