Possible heater core replacement
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Possible heater core replacement
Howdy folks,
The heater in my 2011 F150 does not produce any heat. It powers on just fine to all vents but has zero heat. I've checked the hose lines and haven't found any leaks. The antifreeze level is good, didn't have to add anything there. All the YouTube videos I've watched show that I would have to remove the whole dash to replace this unit. Does anyone know a more simple solution or is this a task left for a professional mechanic? Please advise. Thanks.
The heater in my 2011 F150 does not produce any heat. It powers on just fine to all vents but has zero heat. I've checked the hose lines and haven't found any leaks. The antifreeze level is good, didn't have to add anything there. All the YouTube videos I've watched show that I would have to remove the whole dash to replace this unit. Does anyone know a more simple solution or is this a task left for a professional mechanic? Please advise. Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 7,128
Likes: 1,945
From: Sportsman's Paradise
The whole dash has to come out. There are no shortcuts. With that said.......
I would want to run diag on the system to make sure it's not an electronic blend door problem then back flush the core to make sure it's flowing or not.
I would want to run diag on the system to make sure it's not an electronic blend door problem then back flush the core to make sure it's flowing or not.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
Damn, I was afraid someone would say that. The blend door actuator has been clicking for some time now and I was getting heat throughout that so I believe the problem lies within the heater core itself. I'll just take it in for professional repair. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 412
Likes: 13
From: Great northwest
on a different car i back flushed, and used CLR to clean the heater core and had good success. mine was just clogged and not leaking. cant leave the clr in long. i found it on you tube somewhere. Heater worked great for 10 years after that. i believe clr reacts with the aluminum as well as the crud. So if you can get a good flow without it it would be better..
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,950
Likes: 5,076
The only way it can be the heater core is if there's no flow through it. You've already checked the items that would show signs of a system leak and all is good.
It's a lot easier to check flow through the heating system than it is to replace the core. A lot cheaper, too!
It's a lot easier to check flow through the heating system than it is to replace the core. A lot cheaper, too!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
Put the tools (and the urge to use them) down for a moment...
Check the temperature of the heater core inlet and outlet to see if you actually have HOT coolant flow THROUGH the core. This a basic "first step" in diagnosing any "no heat/poor heat" concern. You have to KNOW what is or isn't working, otherwise, you're just guessing.
Check the temperature of the heater core inlet and outlet to see if you actually have HOT coolant flow THROUGH the core. This a basic "first step" in diagnosing any "no heat/poor heat" concern. You have to KNOW what is or isn't working, otherwise, you're just guessing.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Colorado
OK, I took the truck out for about a 25 minute drive, got it to normal driving temperature and checked the heater inlet and outlet. Both hoses were hot. I also checked the temp of any hoses I can reach and they were nice and toasty. With a cold front coming into the Denver metro area tonight I'm just taking the truck into a shop for professional help. Thanks y'all for the knowledge and help.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 47
Likes: 1
Had my blend door fail. If pulled the fuse it would reset and when temp changed it would go back to full cold and be stuck there. It was a pain to replace but not impossible for diyer, guide is on YouTube. Part was like $50~ and dealer had in stock. Always fails when it’s cold outside. Sorry to hear, hopefully they get you on the road quick and with most of your wallet intact.
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