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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 10:08 PM
  #31  
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Your logic is sound. I didn’t realize you were planning to wait to do the cables. I thought this was going to basically be back to back jobs.

The only advice I’ll throw in at this point is, you don’t have to do either right now. You can continue to gather parts for the 4x4 swap and do it when funds allow. The reason I mention this is every automotive mod I ever “plan” always ends up over budget. Between the “while I’m in there” and the “oops I didn’t think I needed that” it adds up quickly.

Also want to make sure you are in a good position to complete the job in the time allotted since it’s your only wheels. I typically get caught by the “well now I need this part that will take a few days to get” issue.

You always do a good job on the homework and understanding what you’re getting into and I’m always impressed with how quickly you overcome any obstacles that pop up.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 11:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Your logic is sound. I didn’t realize you were planning to wait to do the cables. I thought this was going to basically be back to back jobs.

Yes sir! I had said it up there^^^^ somewhere at some point. It's not that I don't want to do back-to-back jobs it's just as you said, it always goes over budget.

The only advice I’ll throw in at this point is, you don’t have to do either right now. You can continue to gather parts for the 4x4 swap and do it when funds allow. The reason I mention this is every automotive mod I ever “plan” always ends up over budget. Between the “while I’m in there” and the “oops I didn’t think I needed that” it adds up quickly.

I agree. This afternoon there was nothing else I could do to the front axle until the permatex/gasket maker sets in. So I decided to finally take my back bumper off and paint it. I also adjusted my tailgate latch stoppers so that the bushings would quit getting tore up and replaced the bushings as well.

I got the bumper off and got it sanded with 240 grit, went ahead and painted the plastic steps, and then it got too dark to paint the bumper. I'm going to do that tomorrow. While I'm waiting on said bumper to dry I'm planning on doing my lariat seat swap. The seats need new upholstery. That's a fact. But for now, until I can find a really good upholstery deal (some of the kits I found to reupholster the three piece set was over $700) I will just throw some seat covers on it because even that is better than a bench seat. I've got plenty of stuff to do besides the 4x4 swap! But that being said after I changed the differential fluid, which all that's left is to fill it up tomorrow, I will have everything I need minus a pitman arm to put my axle in. Of course I will rebuild my steering gear first. As I said I have plenty to do before I put my axle in. I am going to put it off for another week or two.


Also want to make sure you are in a good position to complete the job in the time allotted since it’s your only wheels. I typically get caught by the “well now I need this part that will take a few days to get” issue.

I agree. It is my only Wheels, but if something happened, I am a 10 minute walk away from work, and my dad would give me a ride anyway.
I always get caught up in the same problem.


You always do a good job on the homework and understanding what you’re getting into and I’m always impressed with how quickly you overcome any obstacles that pop up.
Thank you very much for the compliment! You guys always make me feel good!

 
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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 11:23 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Sous
From memory, I believe SGX is the cable sheath code that is rated for high heat conditions, but that was just me being picky and choosey about my cables and sheath. Like when I bought cabling for the 5th wheel solar, I bought from a place called "Polar Wire" in AK. Even their 4/0 cable is flexible and easy to work with due to the copper strand count and the way it is wrapped in the sheath. Again, the electrical system is only as good as the weakest link.

I found the same sgx cable that you used on eBay from the links that you posted in your forum.

I did NOT remove any of the OEM wiring as it tested good during an ohm/resistance test with a multimeter. The lugs were all in good shape as well, so I reutilized the OEM wiring wherever I could, basically as MountainManRobb explained in his post above.

​​​​​​My battery cable going to the starter was chewed up from rats before I got the truck. I did not know this but one day I was under the truck and bumped it and it shorted out and Sparks went flying. I wrapped it up good for the time being and it's been working great since but, I do not like knowing that it is like that. I am going to strip all of the cables off the truck and start over, when I get to my cable install.

I added a 8 or 6 gauge ground wire from the alternator case to the passenger side battery to aid in the grounding properties associated with the alternator. I tested both main ground cables and lugs from both batteries to either side of the engine block just behind the fan. I cleaned, greased and secured the engine block grounds to ensure a good path of least resistance. I did not run an additional ground wire to the negative terminal of the passenger side battery. I did not see a need as the additional ground connection from the alternator was for the benefit of the alternator, not the batteries. Contrary to the additional positive wiring from the alternator to both batteries, that is to benefit the charge capabilities of the batteries.

I am probably going to just buy a bunch of 2 gauge cable for everything. Even the alternator to battery ground. I just don't want to have to buy five different sizes of wire to do this job when I can make all of it out of the same size and just say I oversized / bulletproofed it! That's the easiest way around it anyway! Who cares if it's a little Overkill!

You can use a 1/0, 2/0 or whatever ground wire you like from the alternator to the driver side negative terminal for the ground, I found through my own calculations based on length that the wire I used would be suitable for the application.

I hope that makes sense...

I see the same squirrel going up the same tree as you do!

The positive wires need to be somewhat large though as they do the heavy lifting and if you take the route I did (over the radiator) to get to the passenger battery, it is a bit longer than the driver side. So, a good quality and flexible 2/0 or so cable will do just fine as the distance is not far, just further than the other battery.

Is 2/0 the same as 2 gauge? I've got most of the wiring sizes figured out but this still confuses me.

I don't have a length estimate of what I bought, but if you use a tape measure and go from point A to point B via the longest path, add up your measurements rounding up to the nearest 5 or 10 position, then add 20% onto that and you should have more than enough. Those military style battery clamps are nice and I will upgrade to them at one point. My truck was well taken care of by the PO even though he used it to haul horses between Louisiana and Texas. The lead clamps are in good serviceable shape and there is no need to fix what isn't broken at this point.

After everything I want to do I think 20 ft of both positive and negative cable will do me good. Might buy 25 just in case because I need some for my custom fuse box for all of my rear bed/toolbox lights along with my big spotlight I'm going to mount on my toolbox as a bed/backup light.

Trimming the covers is not a big deal and what most of us do.



The most difficult part for me was matching the gauge size wire to the proper sized lug. For example, do I need a 2/0 x 3/8" lug or do I need a 2/0 x 5/8" lug. Yup, you can drill out the 3/8" lug to fit a 5/8" lug, but then you are removing some of the material that is me

Do it right, do it once and enjoy the benefits for years to come. I haven't done anything to my electrical system since installing it 4 years ago and it still does great each time I go to start the truck after it has been sitting for months in storage.

Will do!

Good to hear you got it sorted out! Sometimes "desktop/full site views" are required to see hyperlinks, buttons, options, etc... That is not so much the case with the FTE, but can be with other sites, at times.
You had a lot of good information in this post as always, and I always appreciate you! I got your service manual downloaded with no issues!

Also, on my computer after I get everything open for the FSM, it shows in my file manager that I have the DVD drive (F) Ford in. As long as I do not eject this DVD drive file I do not have to remount the Ford file. I just go back to start and the Ford service file is always there. Maybe it's just my computer but it makes things a little easier for me!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 03:44 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
Is 2/0 the same as 2 gauge? I've got most of the wiring sizes figured out but this still confuses me.
No. 2/0 is an aught (or zero) size. I'm sure you are familiar with how gauge sizes work. Just like a shot gun. Larger the number, smaller the wire.

Smallest to Largest:

12 ga
10 ga
8 ga
6 ga
4 ga
2 ga
1 ga
0 ga - 1/0
00 ga - 2/0
000 ga - 3/0
0000 ga - 4/0

I think I'll be joining you on this wiring adventure in the near future. I had hoped to put it off a little while, but on closer inspection the cables are looking rougher than I'd like. I needed to connect something to pass side battery ground, well the clamp bolt was so far gone that it just snapped in two. The positive wasn't much better. The lead still looks good enough and I happened to have two spare battery terminals I could rob the bolts from, but got me to thinking it might be about time. Fortunately I've already got crimpers, but it might be time to start shopping for wire and other stuff. Guess I need to go find Sous's link, that sounds like cable I want to use.

Don't worry, sounds like your computer is acting like it should.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 08:01 AM
  #35  
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Josht got you sorted out on the wire gauge question. His post should give you an "ah ha" moment. We all learn some time and at least you learned before committing any funds.

The FSM is working as intended and I am glad to hear it. I use it a couple of times a week to to try and help people out and about once in a while I will have to "remount" the virtual drive. Not a big deal and I am on my way again.

Keep up the good work.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 08:36 PM
  #36  
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If you are serious about cables and want made in the USA check Temco Industries.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 10:53 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
If you are serious about cables and want made in the USA check Temco Industries.

Yes !! I've been using their stuff for years. I like their adhesive lined, shrink wrap tubing as well as their USA made welding cable. Here is a link to their 2/0 red welding cable. I just bought 40' of it about 2 weeks ago for my two car projects that I'm working on:

2/0 Red Temco Welding Cable

I redid all the battery cables on my truck in January 2018 with Temco's welding cable (3/0 and 2/0.) Temco cable is the best deal that I've been able to find; welding cable or battery cable. It's been on my truck for 3 yrs this month and it's in perfect shape.

Give me a day or so and I'll post the pictures as well as how much cable and what size lugs I used.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 11:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Temco

Neoprene and EPDM

Neoprene and EPDM are common insulators for welding cables, which are highly durable and flexible with resistance to abrasion, extreme temperatures, and solvents. Neoprene and EPDM welding cable is often used in similar applications as automotive wire cable, since it has an advantage in situations where flexible cables are preferred. The disadvantage in using welding cable instead of automotive wire cable is that it is not as resistant to oil and petroleum-based fuel.
Source: Temco's Website: Automotive Wire Cable Insulation

Originally Posted by Temco
Compared to welding cable, car battery cable is not as flexible, less resistant to mechanical wear and tear, and has lower amp ratings. Thus, battery wire is almost exclusively used in automotive engines.

The main advantage battery wire has is that it provides great protection against engine oils and grease, is cheaper, and cables with cross-linked insulation (e.g. SGX or STX) have higher temperature ratings.
Source: Temco's Website: Battery Wire Application

While Temco's welding cable has higher strand count (for flexibility) at 1 guage or smaller, Temco's SGX crosslinked polyethylene automotive battery cable has a higher strand count at 0 gauge and larger.

Source: Temco's Website: Car Battery Cable Comparison
 
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 06:53 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
1- front of truck is lower right now. I’m short so this would be a huge help for me.
Solution:


Originally Posted by F0rdc0wb0y
You can get a complete kit from these guys Battery Cables for Ford F250, F350 & Excursion with Diesel (custombatterycables.com) for $351.06 (kit #2298). By the time you acquire the crimper and all the odds and ends you might be close to what this kit costs. Just something to think about.

BTW, I have this same kit on my pickups and I love em!
An alternative is CE Auto Electric’s kit which is what I have.
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/pro...ry-cable-kits/

Ask about their unlisted charging system upgrade also.

Originally Posted by MountainManRobb
You can always solder after crimping if you want extra insurance.
Do NOT solder your automotive electrical connections. Reasons here:
 
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 07:47 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
Source: Temco's Website: Automotive Wire Cable Insulation



Source: Temco's Website: Battery Wire Application

While Temco's welding cable has higher strand count (for flexibility) at 1 guage or smaller, Temco's SGX crosslinked polyethylene automotive battery cable has a higher strand count at 0 gauge and larger.

Source: Temco's Website: Car Battery Cable Comparison
Y2K, thank you for posting that information about the welding cable's insulation jacket. I knew I should've posted that info because I knew it would come up eventually. Yes, the disadvantages of welding cable are:

1. Insulation not as resistant to oil and grease
2. Not as much heat resistance, i.e. 105 degrees C (welding cable) vs up to 125 degrees C (some battery cable!)
3. Welding cable usually costs more

I can't argue item #1 above. I try to keep my engines relatively clean and find and fix oil leaks when and if I find them.

I have some USA made, Taylor 2 AWG battery cable that came with a trunk mount battery kit. It has a temperature rating of 105 degrees Celsius just like my Temco welding cable. Its printed right on the insulation jacket. The 2 AWG Taylor cable is way more stiff than the much larger 2/0 Temco welding cable and consequently, harder to work with. The temperature rating is my biggest concern with one of my project cars in that the starter cable is very close to the headers. That being said, on my stock 2001 F250 that has had welding cable for 3 years, I've had zero issues with heat. ****After a quick search online, SGT battery cable is only rated to 80C or (105C, like welding cable) but SGX battery cable, the better stuff, is rated up to 125C.

I have found item 3 to not be true with Temco's welding cable. I still haven't found anywhere that will sell 2/0 "battery cable" for less than Temco sells it's welding cable in my link that I posted in post #37.
 

Last edited by dannyual767; Jan 3, 2022 at 07:57 AM. Reason: added text
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 08:06 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob



Do NOT solder your automotive electrical connections. Reasons here:
https://youtu.be/pOTrS6-mNtA
I fully agree with FordTruckNoob! I used to solder my cables but after my own personal research, I switched to crimping.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 02:05 PM
  #42  
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Three years ago, I'm pretty sure that I went to this website and found the drawings of my 2001 F250SD SRW 2WD truck's OEM battery cables along with dimensions to include: wire size, wire length and terminal end sizes:

Woops! Page not found.

Yes. That's what it says now. Thankfully, I'd written down all of the dimensions in my notebook .
IIRC, I went up one size on all the cables just because!

-62.5" of positive battery to battery cable (I used 2/0)
-48" of passenger side neg cable (2/0)
-54" of driver's side neg cable (2/0)
-A total of 72" of 4 AWG cable for smaller ground cables
-51" of 3/0 positive cable to go to the starter

Since I use
Fastronix Top Post Military Spec Battery Terminal Fastronix Top Post Military Spec Battery Terminal
I ended up using more cable end ring terminals than if a person had used standard battery cable terminals like these:

Top post battery terminal


-one 3/0 90 degree ring, 3/8" hole
-one 3/0 ring, 3/8" hole
-four 2/0 rings, 3/8" hole
-two 2/0 rings, 1/2" hole

-one 4AWG ring, 1/4" hole
-one 4AWG ring, 5/16" hole
-one 4AWG ring, 3/8" hole
-one 4AWG ring, 1/2" hole

Pictures to follow later when I have time!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 05:15 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Sous
Josht got you sorted out on the wire gauge question. His post should give you an "ah ha" moment. We all learn some time and at least you learned before committing any funds.

The FSM is working as intended and I am glad to hear it. I use it a couple of times a week to to try and help people out and about once in a while I will have to "remount" the virtual drive. Not a big deal and I am on my way again.

Keep up the good work.
Yep, I know all about wire gauge size but I wasn't sure about Aught. As you said, I had an ah ha moment!

Yep, and it is so helpful! It is so nice to have a full service manual! Thank you so much!

Will do! Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 05:19 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
Solution:



An alternative is CE Auto Electric’s kit which is what I have.
https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/pro...ry-cable-kits/

Ask about their unlisted charging system upgrade also.


Do NOT solder your automotive electrical connections. Reasons here:
https://youtu.be/pOTrS6-mNtA
This video helped me understand why soldering is so bad in this environment. I've grown up around crappy crimps from the auto store with the crappy skinny crimpers. After I use two or three of them and they kept pulling out I quit using them. I am going to order a bunch of crimps and those special crimping pliers and very happily quit soldering unless I have to. Soldering has always been such a pia.

I guess I will need a ladder huh? Even just to get into my toolbox! My toolbox is already up to my chin! If I end up having to put those 4-in blocks on the back I really won't be able to see in there! The only reason I think I will have to use those 4-inch blocks is because they were on the truck of Joel's that we took apart and everything looked good and level on it. Then again there was no motor in it and there was like 2 ft of room above the front tire 😂
By the time I buy an expensive ladder I might as well buy a topside creeper!

Originally Posted by dannyual767
I fully agree with FordTruckNoob! I used to solder my cables but after my own personal research, I switched to crimping.
I am happy to have my eyes opened! I hated soldering in tight spots anyway! It was always a pia! I am going to switch to crimps as well.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 05:35 PM
  #45  
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That ladder was meant more for RacinJasonWV but hey, if the shoe fits…


And yes, DO buy a topside creeper. It is a lifesaver.
 
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