Somehow I managed to make my website look like this. Do your sites usually look like this? Sure is different but, a lot more options

 

You chose the "View full site" its great but sometimes you have to zoom into stuff to press the correct key lol

 

If I had a chisel or punch

They are tools that I have wanted for a long time but, every time I go to shopping (it seems like every other day) I always forget to add these things to the cart 😂

 

Thank you very much! It's funny, I'm getting my riff Raff package Tuesday as well!​​​​​​I think I should do battery cables after my current 4x4 swap. At the same time I would like to do battery cables before I think about, gauges, and a Hydra. I feel the electrical system should be bulletproof before doing fun stuff like that. I'm just already in the middle of the 4x4 swap is the only reason I want to finish that first. I'm bad about doing too many projects at the same time, so I am trying to pace and organize myself a little better and do one thing at a time so I don't confuse stuff.
stuff!
let's change the battery cables that hook up to the 4x4 hubs???!!!?!


I very much so appreciate you sir! We can work out the payment / shipping details later on! Thank you very much!

 

Yep I figured it out. Thanks. It is nice and has a lot more features but on a small phone screen it is too cluttered. Good on a computer I'm sure. I only have my computer so that I can use it when I get my Hydra

In reality it is a cheaper Windows 10 computer that is slow and has a poor battery. Not easy to use for a bunch of stuff. Just good enough to get by so, I use my phone most of the time.

 

You'll get there, always check pawn shops, you will find great tools for cheap. My house shop tool bin is filled with Snap On crap that I got for cheap on pawn shops and flea markets, so always check those out.

 

I redid my cables with welding cable off of Amazon with connectors from a local tractor trailer shop. Sure is nice having over kill for battery cables, I used 3/0 for ground and power. Probably have less than $100 in everything and while I can and do need to change up some of it, doing it myself was a no brainer. Also changed over to series 31 batteries at the same time

 

From memory, I believe SGX is the cable sheath code that is rated for high heat conditions, but that was just me being picky and choosey about my cables and sheath. Like when I bought cabling for the 5th wheel solar, I bought from a place called "Polar Wire" in AK. Even their 4/0 cable is flexible and easy to work with due to the copper strand count and the way it is wrapped in the sheath. Again, the electrical system is only as good as the weakest link.

I did NOT remove any of the OEM wiring as it tested good during an ohm/resistance test with a multimeter. The lugs were all in good shape as well, so I reutilized the OEM wiring wherever I could, basically as MountainManRobb explained in his post above.

I added a 8 or 6 gauge ground wire from the alternator case to the passenger side battery to aid in the grounding properties associated with the alternator. I tested both main ground cables and lugs from both batteries to either side of the engine block just behind the fan. I cleaned, greased and secured the engine block grounds to ensure a good path of least resistance. I did not run an additional ground wire to the negative terminal of the passenger side battery. I did not see a need as the additional ground connection from the alternator was for the benefit of the alternator, not the batteries. Contrary to the additional positive wiring from the alternator to both batteries, that is to benefit the charge capabilities of the batteries.

You can use a 1/0, 2/0 or whatever ground wire you like from the alternator to the driver side negative terminal for the ground, I found through my own calculations based on length that the wire I used would be suitable for the application.

I hope that makes sense...

The positive wires need to be somewhat large though as they do the heavy lifting and if you take the route I did (over the radiator) to get to the passenger battery, it is a bit longer than the driver side. So, a good quality and flexible 2/0 or so cable will do just fine as the distance is not far, just further than the other battery.

I don't have a length estimate of what I bought, but if you use a tape measure and go from point A to point B via the longest path, add up your measurements rounding up to the nearest 5 or 10 position, then add 20% onto that and you should have more than enough. Those military style battery clamps are nice and I will upgrade to them at one point. My truck was well taken care of by the PO even though he used it to haul horses between Louisiana and Texas. The lead clamps are in good serviceable shape and there is no need to fix what isn't broken at this point.

Trimming the covers is not a big deal and what most of us do.

The most difficult part for me was matching the gauge size wire to the proper sized lug. For example, do I need a 2/0 x 3/8" lug or do I need a 2/0 x 5/8" lug. Yup, you can drill out the 3/8" lug to fit a 5/8" lug, but then you are removing some of the material that is meant to be a conductive surface.

Do it right, do it once and enjoy the benefits for years to come. I haven't done anything to my electrical system since installing it 4 years ago and it still does great each time I go to start the truck after it has been sitting for months in storage.

Good to hear you got it sorted out! Sometimes "desktop/full site views" are required to see hyperlinks, buttons, options, etc... That is not so much the case with the FTE, but can be with other sites, at times.

 

I installed this on my truck a few years ago.
https://allbatterysalesandservice.co...cable-2115-001

Quick-Cable Ford Diesel Positive Battery Cable Replacement

The QuickcCable 2115-001 is the Positive Cable for Ford Truck, that fits Ford trucks with dual batteries. This cable is heavy-duty and exceeds the SAE electrical standards. Composed of a copper conductor with PVC insulation, it is also equipped with a high temperature protective nylon loom. Fits Ford trucks from year 1987 to 1993, as well as ANY Powerstroke engine from 1994 to 2014.
FEATURES & SPECIFICATIONS

• Tin-Plated Accessory Lugs
• Heavy-Duty Battery Terminals
• High quality Red Battery Boot Covers
• High temperature protective nylon loom

• Main Cable Gauge : 2/0
• Main Cable Length : 136 Inches ( 11.3 Feet)

• Accessory Wire Gauge : 6 gauge
• Accessory Cable Lead Length : 36 Inches ( 3 Feet )

 

Can I throw a wrench into your plans?

Why not tackle the wiring job before the 4x4 swap? I have reasons…
1- front of truck is lower right now. I’m short so this would be a huge help for me.
2- the wiring project will be functional as soon as it’s complete. 4x4 will only be cosmetic/prep until you get the rest of the parts.
3- mpg will go down with 4x4 installed. Not sure how much with just the axles etc but I would assume at least a little. I imagine both the lower front end and less parts should be helping mpg right now.
4- SSJ will soon be doing a couple 4x4 swaps and can provide details of the process.

 

If given a choice, try to avoid battery cables with PVC insulation.

Battery cable insulation is heated from both within (current flow and resistance) and without (elevated underhood temperatures from exhaust manifolds, radiator, etc).

The thermal limit of PVC insulation is 70°C.

On the other hand, the thermal limit of the SGX battery cable that Sous mentioned above is 125°C. (257°F) That's almost twice as high of a thermal rating than PVC, and more importantly, higher than the opening temperatures of all automotive thermostats.

The significant letter in "SGX" is the letter X, which stands for cross linked. The insulation of SGX wire is Cross Linked Polyethylene, or XLPE. In some cases, it can be XLPO, for Cross Linked Polyolefin.

If you are looking for a battery cable that meets Ford's ESB-M1L85-A and ESF- M1L92-A specifications, than look for battery cables jacketed in SGX insulation, not PVC.

 

​​​​​You can always throw a wrench in my plans if you think there's a better idea! That goes for everybody on here. If someone sees somewhere I can improve I always want you to tell me. You are not going to hurt my feelings, I promise

​​​​​​At the moment I just don't want to spend the money on it. Cable is expensive. By the time I have everything I need to do the job I'm going to be a couple hundred dollars in and, for the moment work is really slow. We are having a really bad time at work because of the time of year. Nobody wants firewood, nobody wants trees down, and nobody wants their grass cut. My income is very limited at the moment, hence why the 4x4 swap was first on the list. I already have the expensive part taken care of. All that's left is small nitpicky things. Thanks to Joel I am into the swap for almost nothing at the moment minus some differential fluid and labor. I still need to get a pitman arm which is about 60 to $70. We also have bills to pay right now and some other life expenses. Most of the stuff that I've been doing for the 4x4 swap has been free but labor intensive. Nothing has really cost me very much money. I added just the cable to my cart that I needed and it came up there a lot further than I thought it would. Just in cable and wireloom I have a 160$ in the cart. Not including cramps or battery terminals or the crimper itself. By the time I get done I'll be a couple hundred dollars in. Not a big deal usually but work is slow so I'm trying to do everything I can that doesn't cost anything. I'm not in a bind at the moment or anything but I'm trying to take things slow. Again though, if you still think there's a better way out of this please let me know where you think my shortcomings are. I really do appreciate it. I'm still young and learning how to deal with these kinds of situations and what you are saying makes a lot of sense. Sorry for talking your head off!

 

You can get a complete kit from these guys Battery Cables for Ford F250, F350 & Excursion with Diesel (custombatterycables.com) for $351.06 (kit #2298). By the time you acquire the crimper and all the odds and ends you might be close to what this kit costs. Just something to think about.

BTW, I have this same kit on my pickups and I love em!

 

I do know about these. I looked at them in the past. I think it'll end up being about $100 cheaper to do it myself but I don't know yet. Another kind FTE'r (acdiez) offered to send me the crimpers for the cables when he got done with them.

They do seem like a good cables. Main reason I want to do it myself is for the experience of doing it myself and to add more stuff to my tool shed of knowledge in my head. Thank you for the kind information and I will definitely think about and consider it!

 

You might look at a crimper like this...

I have a similar unit, and it works very well. You can always solder after crimping if you want extra insurance.