Break in
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2020
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Break in
Getting ready to fire the rebuilt 352 tomorrow. Ken from Oregon Cams has gotten me the process for the cam side of break in. Now for the rest of the engine I have ready many different things on how to drive to get the rings seated, but opinions vary. What’s the general consensus for this time on how to drive
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,670
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From: PHX AZ
Getting ready to fire the rebuilt 352 tomorrow. Ken from Oregon Cams has gotten me the process for the cam side of break in. Now for the rest of the engine I have ready many different things on how to drive to get the rings seated, but opinions vary. What’s the general consensus for this time on how to drive
I have my own way of breaking in the rings and have had 100% success but most don't like to hear it.
Equal as important is what was done put on rings at time of engine assy. was proper machine work done etc all has more to do with it than how it's driven to get cylinders to wear for proper ring seal.
Some think it's rings wear but its actually the cylinders wear to rings.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,463
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From: Tri Cities, TN
Everything Boss9 said. Assuming your cam break in goes well. Just drive it like you stole it.
I always break in the cam on a run stand, 75% of the time the rings have seated just running in the cam.
One thing to be aware of running in that cam. An engine running at 2000-2500 with no load on it needs a lot of advance. Use your dial back timing light and make sure you are getting at least 40 degrees of advance, or you will get very high EGT's.
I always break in the cam on a run stand, 75% of the time the rings have seated just running in the cam.
One thing to be aware of running in that cam. An engine running at 2000-2500 with no load on it needs a lot of advance. Use your dial back timing light and make sure you are getting at least 40 degrees of advance, or you will get very high EGT's.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2020
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Rodger that!
realized this morning that I installed the rear main seal incorrect.
I put the lip opening facing towards towards the trans. Please correct if I am wrong!
so since I have to pull number 5 cap, any tips on pulling the cap off? It’s been difficult I don’t know if I do it right. I know how to put the seal in, just pulling the cap is difficult
realized this morning that I installed the rear main seal incorrect.
I put the lip opening facing towards towards the trans. Please correct if I am wrong!
so since I have to pull number 5 cap, any tips on pulling the cap off? It’s been difficult I don’t know if I do it right. I know how to put the seal in, just pulling the cap is difficult
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,463
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From: Tri Cities, TN
FE's can be PITA. Just use a non-marring hammer and tap it back and front until you can pull it out. If you used a lot of sealer, it could take a while.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,084
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From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
1966F100SC,
So do you have the bottom buttoned up and the oil pan and exhaust installed now?
- When I am ready to light the fire on a fresh build, I make sure to have a CO2 fire extinguisher at the ready......ya just never know what will happen.
- I also will put the battery on a charger for an hour or so, to ensure it is 100% up.
- How long has it been assembled - you may want to spin the oil pump drive with a drill to get oil throughout the block and valvetrain, ensuring lube prior to ¨lighting the fire¨....
Good Luck and report back!
BarnieTrk
So do you have the bottom buttoned up and the oil pan and exhaust installed now?
- When I am ready to light the fire on a fresh build, I make sure to have a CO2 fire extinguisher at the ready......ya just never know what will happen.
- I also will put the battery on a charger for an hour or so, to ensure it is 100% up.
- How long has it been assembled - you may want to spin the oil pump drive with a drill to get oil throughout the block and valvetrain, ensuring lube prior to ¨lighting the fire¨....
Good Luck and report back!
BarnieTrk
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More Turbo
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Cam break in went well, now time for tuning.
I can’t get it to idle below 2000k rpm and the timing is around 25degrees at that rpm so something has to be wrong. All vacuum ports on the carb are plugged including the one on the dizzy ( disconnected of course)
it’s a 1406 carb, and I’m new to this. I have set the idle mixture screws 1.5 turns out from seated. I cannot get it right and I have chased the issues all day!! Please help!
and during building I verified that the tdc mark on the balancer was correct.
I can’t get it to idle below 2000k rpm and the timing is around 25degrees at that rpm so something has to be wrong. All vacuum ports on the carb are plugged including the one on the dizzy ( disconnected of course)
it’s a 1406 carb, and I’m new to this. I have set the idle mixture screws 1.5 turns out from seated. I cannot get it right and I have chased the issues all day!! Please help!
and during building I verified that the tdc mark on the balancer was correct.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 753
Likes: 133
From: Phoenix
Is the carb a manual choke or electric? Also check the idle set screw and see if it is making contact with the screw stop. If not then possibly the choke fast idle is stuck. Also with the engine off and key off, look down in the carb and check to see if the throttle plate is cracked open. If it is, then you need to figure out if the choke is causing the problem or if the idle is set too high via the idle screw. Post some pics of the carb if you can. good luck
