So the carb not being set correctly can result in the need for lots of advance to run

 

No the carb fast idle circuit may not be releasing.

 

So then what explains the advance?

 

The mechanical advance has kicked in with the rpm's.

 

Generally four things on a carb are supposed to control idle speed.
1. Choke valve - which you propped with a screwdriver (make sure you don't bang and scratch stuff in the throttle area)
2. Idle mixture adjust - which you have adjusted to a reasonable start point
3. Idle Set screw - check this next. See the green arrow in the pics below. Screwing this in and out moves the throttle valves opened and closed - just like stepping on the gas pedal. This screw sets the throttle valve position when you take your foot off the pedal and the spring pulls the throttle closed. Try unscrewing this a bit - your idle should drop
4. Fast idle cam and screw. This works with the choke - the choke will both close the choke valve and rotate the fast idle cam. See the red arrow below. When this cam rotates, it pushes on the screw (blue arrow). This opens the throttle valves - just like the green screw and the gas pedal. It is only supposed to engage when the choke is on. Yours may be engaged due to the choke, or may be engaged because the blue screw is extended too far.

After you figure this out, get your idle down to below 800 or so, and set the timing to where you want it (maybe 10 or 12 BTDC). The 'Advance' would most likely come from the mech advance in the distributor - which is advancing due to the 2000RPM. That's why you need to get below 800 - so the mechanical advance is not working. Changing the timing will likely require you to adjust idle again with the set screw (not the mixture screws)
Then go back and set your idle mixture. Adjust the mixture screws to get the fastest RPM idle. Then adjust the Idle set screw to get to the idle speed back to what you want, then adjust the mixture screws again, and then the idle speed again to get the idle speed you want. That should be close.
You might grab a book or other doc and do some reading on your carb and distributor settings.

 

I should add that in the photo above - the (red) fast idle cam is engaged - the cam is on the (blue) screw and the throttle is partly open because of it. You want a gap between the cam and the screw

 

Yes there is a gap at the fast idle screw, it’s not touching, I’m guessing because the choke is being held open.

when I turn the idle set screw, the engine dies shortly after. One thing that I forgot to mention is that I took out the screw driver and adjusted the choke so that it was not needed. I don’t believe anything changed. Choke is also not currently wired up

 

Is this a new carb??
Not being to idle below 2000 without stalling would indicate that it is only able to run on the primary circuit. When it stalls is it flooding out "black smoke" or going lean?

 

No it’s a used carb, I don’t see any smoke coming out that’s dark

 

If it hasn't been apart lately, it's probably time. At least pull the top off and check the float level make sure the metering rods are free to move and clean. You can go to Edelbrock's website and download the manual for it if you don't have one. If all that is OK, you may have a big vacuum leak. FE manifolds are famous for not sealing.

 

Okay it’s been about a month since it’s been opened. Rebuilt right before and sat,

when Intake was placed on rtv was used with gaskets on all ports just to be safe, torqued to 40ft lbs. pulled 10 inches of vac yesterday from the manifold. What’s the best way to check for an intake vac leak?

afternarket Oregon cam with .519 lift

 

If it was at 2000 rpm with no load and only pulling 10 inches something is amiss. It should be a lot higher than that. If it would idle you could diagnose it with the vacuum gauge. Start with the easy stuff. Just because the carb was rebuilt doesn't mean there isn't something wrong with it. Hook up that vacuum advance 25 degrees is not enough for an engine running with no load on it.
You are just going to have to dig into it. All we can do is sit here and guess.

 

Okay got it to idle, sort of. The rpm is around 800-900 and not stable. Have to have the idle screw in a bit to get it there. I rebuilt the carb again and there was crap in there again. Started and sort of idled there.

however it still needs at 20° or more of initial, the more I advance the rpms go up and ur smooths out.

I also have intake gaskets on order to be here tomorrow to eliminate that issue

abd at idle only 10in of vacuum

 

When you replace the intake gaskets stay away from the sealer except in the corners. Make sure all surfaces are surgical clean.

 

Why only use sealer on edges?

I have always done the water ports and edges.

also any tips on getting all the coolant out of the intake?


edit: while I’m in the engine, please tell me what is the affect of having the timing chain off a tooth, would the engine even run at all. Could this also be of an issue.
I just installed it straight up because when I was decreeing it I did not find an issue, unless I completely messed up