What person could not align the dots on the timing gears? Quality gaskets recommend no sealant.

 

Well I am worried I may have slipped up when putting on the timing chain. So could an issue as such a slipped tooth cause this sort of issue

And I use the felpro gaskets just the standard ones. That’s what I’ve used before, just never had an isdue

 

Felpro with the blue rings around the ports work just fine.

 

Okay.

now again please can you abeer my question, will a skipped tooth cause this issue. If you don’t know please just say so lol

 

No I don't know, but how hard would it to line up 2 dots? Seems to me there are exterrnal problems.

 

Eliminate ONE thing at a time. We're not going to assume you did everything wrong. Are we?
Get the ignition right before you do anything else.
Any engine with even a moderate cam needs more than 20 degrees of advance to idle. Set the initial at 10 to 12 degrees to start and hook up the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum. If you have the right vacuum canister you should have at least 30-32 degrees at idle. If that cam has a lot of overlap, you may never get it to idle right below 800-900 rpm.
Post a picture of the cam card.

 

As I see it you are chasing your tail. Since you are going to pull the intake, you may as well check to see if your cam timing is at least phased correctly. There is no point in doing all the other things until you know cam timing is correct. And more importantly what the cam profile is. At this point I would post pics of the cam card as Crop Duster suggested. Depending on the duration,overlap and lobe separation 10hg of vacuum can be the norm. So you need to figure that out first. Just my 2c.

 

 

Tore into it this evening.

I did line up the dots, though I am still going to degree it again.

also several plugs were pretty oiled up. Leading me to think intake leak.

 

You better get someone to be on site to help you.

 

You mean to remove the intake? Or degree cam? I have an engine hoist that I used to remove the intake

 

That is certainly not what I would consider an easy to tune to street cam. What intake are you using? Is it a period cast iron or an aluminum aftermarket? Do your heads have the exhaust crossover ports and does your intake? Are you using the stock 352 non adjustable rocker arm assemblies? Did you check that the timing marks on the harmonic balancer did in fact match TDC of #1 cylinder? Lots of possibilities and like someone already stated, I suppose I’m guessing from the couch.
I have a 302 with a very similar cam profile and the 1406 Carb. It takes quite a bit of adjustment to get the engine to run well at idle (700 RPMs) and prevent a lean stumble at the off idle transition. Vacuum at idle is 11 inches of Hg. Base timing is 12 degrees and total timing is 39 degrees. Lots of playing with different combinations of metering rods, jet size, and step up spring tension. Eldebrock sells a tuning kit with various sizes of these three components and the PDF to tune is available as a download from their website. Their literature is very detailed and with patience and the correct diagnostic tools you can match the carb to work with that cam profile.
Good Luck

My other truck has an FE with a milder cam and Edelbrock carb, it is much easier to tune.

 

Took the intake off to reseal, found a flat lobe. Roller cam and new bearings to come by the spring. No time before then because of college class.

quite mad about this. Calling ken at Oregon about it tomorrow. His instructions were followed step by step abd yet there was still a failure.

 

Sorry, that happened. I had to run that cam thru a calculator since they didn't give you seat to seat numbers. Becky66 is dead on. That is way too big of a cam for a 352 running stock heads. It has 64.5 degrees of seat-to-seat overlap. You would have been lucky to get 10 inches of vacuum at idle.
I doubt you are going to get much satisfaction from the cam grinder, but it's worth a try.
I don't know what brand of lifter you purchased, but there hasn't been a hydraulic flat tappet lifter made in the USA since 2005. Anything you get no matter whose name is on the package was made somewhere that English was not their first language. No amount of ZDDP can make up for substandard material and poor-quality control.
If you get a new cam whether it be a flat tappet or roller, try to be at no more than 270 degrees advertised duration, if you plan on driving on the street. Anything over that is a mild race cam and over 290 degrees it is a sure thing it is a race cam and will be miserable to drive on the street.
I only buy NOS made in the USA lifters, off of E-bay or Amazon. Use this interchange to find some NOS made in USA lifters. S.B. International e-Catalog (sbi-e-catalog.com)

 

I don’t understand how this happened if you followed the procedure. Please feed back any information that Ken at Oregon states about your situation! I am a few weeks behind you on my engine break-in. Thanks!