6.0 no start hot.
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6.0 no start hot.
Grab a coffee because its a long story....
Got a 2006 f450 crank no start when hot. Trucks got 90k with 5200 hours. Past tech installed 8 new injectors, new fuel filters, flushed the fuel system and an egr delete because of a no start 4 months ago. The owner of the truck then got a crank no start later on with a complaint of coolant loss.The previous shop installed all new dummy plugs and stand pipes. Apparently did a compression check and claimed low compression on #8. The truck does have quite a bit of blow by but I've seen worse. The shop tells the guy the engines worn out and that's why it doesn't run when hot.
Now it makes its way into my shop....
I run my scanner on it. My ipr is running at 84% when hot trying to crank the engine over. I'm was getting 150 at the icp when hot. Oil temp is anywhere from 180-215 when hot while engine coolant temp is around 170-180. FICM was at 48v. So I deemed it a high pressure oil issue. I noticed coolant coming out of an egr delete that was recently done so I want to say no head gasket issue as thats probably why i was leaking coolant. So i carried on.... I checked the ipr which had no signs of damage and checked the stc fitting, noticed it still had the old style stc so, I installed a updated version with no change on start up when hot. Found a hair line crack in the pump so I replaced the HPOP. Still no luck. But now I've got 380ish psi while cranking when hot. I've air tested the system and dead headed the system by applying 12v to the ipr. There are no leaks present or that can be heard.
So my question is, because theres such a vast difference in oil temp and coolant temp, is it possible that my oil cooler is so plugged that it's causing a no start when hot? Can excessive blow by cause a no start? Ive been wrenching on 6.0s for a long time and never had this much issue diagnosing a 6.0. I'm at a loss. Oil was recently changed along with a new oil filter just incase. Someone help!!!
Got a 2006 f450 crank no start when hot. Trucks got 90k with 5200 hours. Past tech installed 8 new injectors, new fuel filters, flushed the fuel system and an egr delete because of a no start 4 months ago. The owner of the truck then got a crank no start later on with a complaint of coolant loss.The previous shop installed all new dummy plugs and stand pipes. Apparently did a compression check and claimed low compression on #8. The truck does have quite a bit of blow by but I've seen worse. The shop tells the guy the engines worn out and that's why it doesn't run when hot.
Now it makes its way into my shop....
I run my scanner on it. My ipr is running at 84% when hot trying to crank the engine over. I'm was getting 150 at the icp when hot. Oil temp is anywhere from 180-215 when hot while engine coolant temp is around 170-180. FICM was at 48v. So I deemed it a high pressure oil issue. I noticed coolant coming out of an egr delete that was recently done so I want to say no head gasket issue as thats probably why i was leaking coolant. So i carried on.... I checked the ipr which had no signs of damage and checked the stc fitting, noticed it still had the old style stc so, I installed a updated version with no change on start up when hot. Found a hair line crack in the pump so I replaced the HPOP. Still no luck. But now I've got 380ish psi while cranking when hot. I've air tested the system and dead headed the system by applying 12v to the ipr. There are no leaks present or that can be heard.
So my question is, because theres such a vast difference in oil temp and coolant temp, is it possible that my oil cooler is so plugged that it's causing a no start when hot? Can excessive blow by cause a no start? Ive been wrenching on 6.0s for a long time and never had this much issue diagnosing a 6.0. I'm at a loss. Oil was recently changed along with a new oil filter just incase. Someone help!!!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,911
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That is a lot of engine hours for such low mileage!
A lack of compression can certainly make it not start, but it shouldn't prevent getting good ICP numbers when cranking.
A plugged oil cooler (coolant side) isn't going to cause a hot no start unless the oil temperature gets VERY high, but even then you would need to have a leak (ie leaks are WAY more common when oil temps are very high).
What scan tool are you using?
How long have you cranked after doing the work on the high pressure oil system?
EDIT - re-reading your thread, it seems you have probably started it after doing all your work because it is ONLY a "hot" no-start? Please verify this!
Since you have worked on a lot of 6.0's, I assume you aren't trying to start with a tall oil filter cap and an OEM filter?
Have you verified the time it takes to fill the oil filter housing when cranking? Do this test with the drain valve pushed closed and when it is left open. Post how many seconds it took to fill the empty oil filter housing (filter removed). When you do the test with the valve pushed down. Stop cranking when the oil filter housing is full, and hold the drain valve closed for a minute or so to verify that it isn't leaking (ie the level should remain full).
A lack of compression can certainly make it not start, but it shouldn't prevent getting good ICP numbers when cranking.
A plugged oil cooler (coolant side) isn't going to cause a hot no start unless the oil temperature gets VERY high, but even then you would need to have a leak (ie leaks are WAY more common when oil temps are very high).
What scan tool are you using?
How long have you cranked after doing the work on the high pressure oil system?
EDIT - re-reading your thread, it seems you have probably started it after doing all your work because it is ONLY a "hot" no-start? Please verify this!
Since you have worked on a lot of 6.0's, I assume you aren't trying to start with a tall oil filter cap and an OEM filter?
Have you verified the time it takes to fill the oil filter housing when cranking? Do this test with the drain valve pushed closed and when it is left open. Post how many seconds it took to fill the empty oil filter housing (filter removed). When you do the test with the valve pushed down. Stop cranking when the oil filter housing is full, and hold the drain valve closed for a minute or so to verify that it isn't leaking (ie the level should remain full).
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That is a lot of engine hours for such low mileage!
A lack of compression can certainly make it not start, but it shouldn't prevent getting good ICP numbers when cranking.
A plugged oil cooler (coolant side) isn't going to cause a hot no start unless the oil temperature gets VERY high, but even then you would need to have a leak (ie leaks are WAY more common when oil temps are very high).
What scan tool are you using?
How long have you cranked after doing the work on the high pressure oil system?
EDIT - re-reading your thread, it seems you have probably started it after doing all your work because it is ONLY a "hot" no-start? Please verify this!
Since you have worked on a lot of 6.0's, I assume you aren't trying to start with a tall oil filter cap and an OEM filter?
Have you verified the time it takes to fill the oil filter housing when cranking? Do this test with the drain valve pushed closed and when it is left open. Post how many seconds it took to fill the empty oil filter housing (filter removed). When you do the test with the valve pushed down. Stop cranking when the oil filter housing is full, and hold the drain valve closed for a minute or so to verify that it isn't leaking (ie the level should remain full).
A lack of compression can certainly make it not start, but it shouldn't prevent getting good ICP numbers when cranking.
A plugged oil cooler (coolant side) isn't going to cause a hot no start unless the oil temperature gets VERY high, but even then you would need to have a leak (ie leaks are WAY more common when oil temps are very high).
What scan tool are you using?
How long have you cranked after doing the work on the high pressure oil system?
EDIT - re-reading your thread, it seems you have probably started it after doing all your work because it is ONLY a "hot" no-start? Please verify this!
Since you have worked on a lot of 6.0's, I assume you aren't trying to start with a tall oil filter cap and an OEM filter?
Have you verified the time it takes to fill the oil filter housing when cranking? Do this test with the drain valve pushed closed and when it is left open. Post how many seconds it took to fill the empty oil filter housing (filter removed). When you do the test with the valve pushed down. Stop cranking when the oil filter housing is full, and hold the drain valve closed for a minute or so to verify that it isn't leaking (ie the level should remain full).
Vehicle was started and ran a few times each with a half hour of driving after starting to reach operating temp.
oil filter is a lubrifiner with a factory cap (never had an issue and previous filter was a Ford filter with no change) only changed oil in hopes possibly helps things.
my question about the cooler being plugged was more so for the oil side. I was thinking if the screen in the sump under oil cooler was so plugged , could it not allow the hpop to draw enough oil to build 500 psi.
the truck is from a mine and I'm thinking they fed it lots of starting fluid over the years hence the blow by and the engine hours.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,911
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The HPOP sump screen could be plugged, but you would have to wonder what contaminated the oil and how much bypassed the filter. I would have to think any contamination would deposit SOME of it on the filter.
You COULD have the oil side plugged on the oil cooler, but it isn't common, and like the above ...... I would think that the oil filter would look bad and you could probably see sludge (or whatever) when you drained the oil. There probably is a bypass on the oil side (like there is on the coolant side) if the cooler gets plugged. I will have to look that up to say for sure though.
IMO - you should do the cranking tests, and I would get rid of the Luberfiner oil filter cap and buy an OEM one.
You COULD have the oil side plugged on the oil cooler, but it isn't common, and like the above ...... I would think that the oil filter would look bad and you could probably see sludge (or whatever) when you drained the oil. There probably is a bypass on the oil side (like there is on the coolant side) if the cooler gets plugged. I will have to look that up to say for sure though.
IMO - you should do the cranking tests, and I would get rid of the Luberfiner oil filter cap and buy an OEM one.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,911
Likes: 3,623
This is what I find on the Luberfiner oil filter:
"The Ford PowerStroke 6.0 oil filters can come with or without the cap molded to the filter. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU ORDER THE CORRECT ONE FOR WHAT YOU WANT �?? you cannot remove the molded caps from the filter. The Wix 57312, the NapaGold 7312, and Baldwin P7436 all come with a cap. The Wix 57311, the NapaGold 7311, the Luberfiner LP2017, and the Fram CH9549 DO NOT come with a cap. All of these are primary oil filters made to fit in the Ford PowerStroke 6.0 liter diesel."
So you just need to makes sure the oil filter cap you are using is not the tall one. If it is the tall one, it will be stamped "Do NOT Re-use".
"The Ford PowerStroke 6.0 oil filters can come with or without the cap molded to the filter. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU ORDER THE CORRECT ONE FOR WHAT YOU WANT �?? you cannot remove the molded caps from the filter. The Wix 57312, the NapaGold 7312, and Baldwin P7436 all come with a cap. The Wix 57311, the NapaGold 7311, the Luberfiner LP2017, and the Fram CH9549 DO NOT come with a cap. All of these are primary oil filters made to fit in the Ford PowerStroke 6.0 liter diesel."
So you just need to makes sure the oil filter cap you are using is not the tall one. If it is the tall one, it will be stamped "Do NOT Re-use".
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2026
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This is what I find on the Luberfiner oil filter:
"The Ford PowerStroke 6.0 oil filters can come with or without the cap molded to the filter. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU ORDER THE CORRECT ONE FOR WHAT YOU WANT �?? you cannot remove the molded caps from the filter. The Wix 57312, the NapaGold 7312, and Baldwin P7436 all come with a cap. The Wix 57311, the NapaGold 7311, the Luberfiner LP2017, and the Fram CH9549 DO NOT come with a cap. All of these are primary oil filters made to fit in the Ford PowerStroke 6.0 liter diesel."
So you just need to makes sure the oil filter cap you are using is not the tall one. If it is the tall one, it will be stamped "Do NOT Re-use".
"The Ford PowerStroke 6.0 oil filters can come with or without the cap molded to the filter. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU ORDER THE CORRECT ONE FOR WHAT YOU WANT �?? you cannot remove the molded caps from the filter. The Wix 57312, the NapaGold 7312, and Baldwin P7436 all come with a cap. The Wix 57311, the NapaGold 7311, the Luberfiner LP2017, and the Fram CH9549 DO NOT come with a cap. All of these are primary oil filters made to fit in the Ford PowerStroke 6.0 liter diesel."
So you just need to makes sure the oil filter cap you are using is not the tall one. If it is the tall one, it will be stamped "Do NOT Re-use".
was there ever a fix found for this?
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