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Old Dec 23, 2021 | 11:28 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
Yes sir! At first when I saw the box, I wondered why is the whole thing made out of tape🤔
Then I saw it..... The box below the tape......was wet! (dun dun dun dunnnnnnnn)!


There may have been some fluids left in the booster or something

The card survived great with no issues thanks to the Ziploc bag you put it in!
I will definitely be keeping that card as well and hanging it on the fridge! Thanks again for everything you've done!
If I get it painted tomorrow I will post a pic!
​​​​​
lucky, I think most of the wet happened to the box pre shipment, at least some did. So I just went wild with the tape so ups wouldnt throw a fit.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2021 | 11:35 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ESwift
lucky, I think most of the wet happened to the box pre shipment, at least some did. So I just went wild with the tape so ups wouldnt throw a fit.
It looked like it had been on there for a bit so it probably happened, pre shipment, like you mentioned.
The booster looks to be in amazing shape, little bit of dawn dish soap and water and a brass bristle brush and it cleaned up very nicely. I didn't realize the boosters were made out of cast iron. It's heavier than I thought it would be.
I meant to ask a question, after the booster replacement, do you just bleed the brakes like normal at each caliper? What about the power steering? Does it not need to be bled? I've never changed a hydro booster, nor have I ever really seen a vehicle where, the booster is for the brakes and the power steering. Then again this is my first big truck so I'm learning all kinds of things as I go
 
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Old Dec 23, 2021 | 11:41 PM
  #33  
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The brakes wont need bleeding, the master cylinder detaches from the booster, but no line is opened and nothing is disturbed. The powersteering/hydroboost will need some bleeding as thay system will be opened,

I am trying to remeber if the pressure lines that attach to the boosters two short sections need a teflon oring, I will hopefully remember in the morning after some sleep. The biggest thing is to not over tighten those two connections
 
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Old Dec 23, 2021 | 11:56 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by ESwift
The brakes wont need bleeding, the master cylinder detaches from the booster, but no line is opened and nothing is disturbed. The powersteering/hydroboost will need some bleeding as thay system will be opened,

I am trying to remeber if the pressure lines that attach to the boosters two short sections need a teflon oring, I will hopefully remember in the morning after some sleep. The biggest thing is to not over tighten those two connections
All righty! I hope you sleep good and have a good night!
Thanks again 👍
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 08:25 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by bsiliani
I'd like to know one other truck site that gives Bread away 2 others.
Merry Christmas to all.
Bob (​​​​​​@bsiliani ), the very same truck site which has a member (and his wife) that drives down to GA from PA during a blizzard and then shares his cherry moonshine with the others around the campfire.

Good times my friend.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 08:25 AM
  #36  
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So I would like to get to fixing my power steering leak and cross threaded hole. The hose I need comes off the bottom of the pump and goes to the cooler. Does anybody know what thread type goes from the alternator / PS pump bracket to the head? The hose I need in this diagram is number one. From Ford it comes with both cooling hoses for $200. Would it be better to go and have one made? Along with the pressure line that goes from the pump to booster?
Also, I know I need a pulley puller which I will rent from Auto parts store.
Also I know you're not supposed to use power steering fluid in these trucks but it's what I had when I ran slap out in the past and that's what I put in because I figured it was better than no fluid. I will flush the system before I put my new booster on.




 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 08:31 AM
  #37  
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Tristan, remove the power steering fluid ASAP.

The hose connections/unions that Eric mentioned above that may need the teflon rings is Dorman 82540 and can be bought at just about any parts store.

The two links below may aid you in your search for a custom hose. One of them is just that, but I don't think it is the hose you are looking for. If you want to have a hose made, you can take the hose on your truck off and take it with you to the shop. That should help quite a bit. Although, you will need another means of transportation at that point.


 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 08:35 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Sous
Tristan, remove the power steering fluid ASAP.

The hose connections/unions that Eric mentioned above that may need the teflon rings is Dorman 82540 and can be bought at just about any parts store.

The two links below may aid you in your search for a custom hose. One of them is just that, but I don't think it is the hose you are looking for.If you want to have a hose made, you can take the hose on your truck off and take it with you to the shop. That should help quite a bit. Although, you will need another means of transportation at that point.
Thank you for all the information. May I ask why the power steering fluid is bad for these trucks? Just out of curiosity
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 08:56 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Hyakkimaru
Thank you for all the information. May I ask why the power steering fluid is bad for these trucks? Just out of curiosity
Simply based on it being the wrong fluid. All the way from the friction modifiers to viscosity.

Just like you wouldn't put antifreeze into your transmission case as it is the wrong fluid. As a last resort you have to do what you have to do to get yourself safe and home, but now that you are not in that situation you should flush the system. I use Valvoline Synthetic ATF in the gallon containers from the parts stores. It is a deep red bottle (or was) and was reasonably priced up until mid last year.

When traveling cross country, I carry a gallon of pre-mix ELC, ATF and oil for the truck. Then I carry a quart of power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant and oil for the Subaru. We go to some very remote places and there is no one for miles and miles and no signal. I need to be able to count on ourselves to get us out of a situation. Hence why we now travel (even cross country) with a chase car. It has saved our asses more than a hand full of times.

Keep us updated Tristan.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 10:45 AM
  #40  
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I wouldn’t pay $200 for a return line. This should be a low pressure hose (someone confirm for me please). Supporting evidence is in the worm clamp that’s on it. I would cut and splice the hose. Be sure to use ATF rated hose.

My opinion about the fluid. ATF is made to perform under high-ish pressures and with anti foaming properties. Not sure how a power steering fluid compares, but I’d guess with lower pressure. My take is ATF is used because of these 2 properties.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 11:24 AM
  #41  
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 12:18 PM
  #42  
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What color y'all think? Black for low profile or red to match the turbo pipes?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 12:19 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
I wouldn’t pay $200 for a return line. This should be a low pressure hose (someone confirm for me please). Supporting evidence is in the worm clamp that’s on it. I would cut and splice the hose. Be sure to use ATF rated hose.

My opinion about the fluid. ATF is made to perform under high-ish pressures and with anti foaming properties. Not sure how a power steering fluid compares, but I’d guess with lower pressure. My take is ATF is used because of these 2 properties.
Believe me I don't plan on spending that much on a hose. I was thinking about getting a solid rubber hose to go from one end to the other and putting a hard sleeve on it. There are multiple rub points on the metal part in the center of the line that are almost rubbed through and I do not want to reuse it. I also not going to buy one just like it. I will run up to the auto parts in a bit and see what they can make versus a rubber hose that is wiring reinforced rated for ATF with a sleeve. What do you think?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 06:29 PM
  #44  
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All done with the job, the power steering is so much quieter. Before, when you turn the wheel you can hear it almost like it was grinding even though it had plenty of fluid in it. Now that I fixed the leak and swapped it the PS fluid for ATF, it is so much quieter. I can't even hear it anymore!
I ended up painting my alternator/ps pump bracket black.
I also repaired my cross threaded hole. Everything went pretty smooth except for finding what new hose I needed.
What I ended up doing was getting a piece of pipe and some very high quality hose designed for ATF and oil, we bent the pipe to the shape of the old one, barbed one end(the other side was already barbed) and put our hoses on with clamps.

Got it going in straight and cleaned up the threads. I also ran a die down the bolt to clean it up.

Because I used that El cheapo paint on my turbo pipe last time, I repainted it with Rust-Oleum 2x because I already had a can of it. Sanded with 600 grit and put a good coat over the old coat of paint. Also painted my bracket

Put a piece of rubber on this rub spot.

There's the end of the new line where the hoses connected. I made sure to put plenty of extra hose so that I can have it deep onto the pipe. Again this is a barbed end so that it won't leak in the hose won't come off as easily. It's a low pressure line anyway. You can also see towards the bottom of the new shiny metal line in the picture there is some more hose. That's not the other end, I put a 6-in piece of rubber there to stop it from rubbing. The new metal line is formed almost exactly like the old one. My dad wanted to do the bending and, he did a good job.

Got two coats of paint on the booster. Thinking about painting the little blue cylinder red. Might leave it blue. Not sure yet.
Thanks again Eric!


 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 06:47 PM
  #45  
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Good work Tristan. Now put down the wrench and go enjoy Christmas!

Tell Nicole the GA GTG guys and gals say hello for us.
 
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