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Hello,
I have a 1984 Ford F-250, 6.9L diesel.
The blower motor recently stopped working, so I replaced it with a new one, still doesn’t work. I checked the fuse panel and the 30A fuse for the heater was melted inside the panel.
The blower resistor and the plugs look kinda corroded as well.
I still get power at the plug that goes into the blower motor but it doesn’t turn on. Not sure what to do.
Can I move the fuse to a different slot in the panel?
Do you have A/C? The heaters with A/C are wired a little different. You are going to have to find the wire (depends if you have A/C or not) and cut it and splice in a external fuse. The fuse would be hooked to a grey/yellow wire feeding the fuse box.
Do you have A/C? The heaters with A/C are wired a little different. You are going to have to find the wire (depends if you have A/C or not) and cut it and splice in a external fuse. The fuse would be hooked to a grey/yellow wire feeding the fuse box.
It does have A/C, but there is no belt on the compressor because it seized up.
So I could put an in-line fuse and bypass the fuse panel?
Yes you could. Finding the wires is the only headache. I was looking at the 1984 diagram, they originally used a grey with yellow stripe wire leaving the ignition switch and going to the fuse box. This wire feeds fuse 9, 30 amp for the A/C/heater and it also fed fuse 5, 15 amp for the turn/stop/hazards.
If you want to keep the power distribution somewhat original, you could find the grey/yellow wire, keep it intact to feed fuse 5, but skin the insulation back and twist the wire from a inline fuse onto the grey/yellow wire. Soldering this connection would be best. If you want to use a crimp, you could actually cut the wire, strip both ends, and take the fuse wire and install it with the grey/yellow on one end and put the remianing grey yellow on the other end of the crimp. These wires need to be fairly large, so I would use a large yellow crimp. On the other end of the fuse I would connect the brown/orange wire that is leaving fuse 9 feeding the blower motor. Finding all these wires is going to be the hard part.
Okay I will take a look at the wires and try to make some sense of it. Thanks so much for the reply! This at least gives me a place to start tinkering.
Got the wires figured out and the in-line fuse put in and the blower motor works! Thanks so much for the help.
I get warm air out of the vents and all the fan speeds work (which is surprising because the resistor looks super old and was full of debris), but the air won't switch from vent (i.e. no defrost/feet setting). I believe this is supposed to be a vacuum-operated system, but I have no experience with it. Also, I could hear it working after I took the radio and dash apart about a week ago, so I am thinking it is just a vacuum hose that came off somewhere? I was curious if there was a diagram or literature on this system because my Chilton's manual only tells me how to get the heater control assembly off. Thanks again for the help!
That guide has details how to test the door and actuator. If the hinge has failed, you can block off the open passage for now with a piece of sheet metal to restore airflow to the defroster and floor outlets.
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