@johnr6 _ _ Nice work on your Ford !
I like the color combo of your pickup. sweet.
One thing to remember here with Pinion angle:
The pinion and should match that of the transfer-case output angle for u-joint balance. (or use a constant velocity joint).
Best solution is trial and error for king pin angle versus pinion angle.

I really don't like the Factory discs on my '79 Dana king pin 60. I had to make sheet metal shims to quieten caliper chatter from caliper to bracket. _ _ _ _ ( no kidding, I could hear them clunk when hitting a bump while not braking ).
On my '78 Ford Dana 44 front open-knuckle, I am running '78 GM knuckles, spindles, disc wheel hubs and ACDelco calipers, which were from a '78 GM 2500 series, so 8-lug to match the rear. I like the GM ACDelco calipers.
The GM calipers don't chatter like the late '70's Ford calipers. _ _ _ just food for thought for peeps considering options.

Did you say you are saying w/ drums in the rear too ?

 

Ford corrected those calipers in 1995 and did away with the rubber pins—you could grab those larger Bolt-on calipers in the instead of going to the Darkside.

 

Thanks! Yeah im probably going to leave the rear drums. Yeah the passenger side caliper is tight but driver side is a little slopp. I finally drove it around a little, and it didnt handle awful. Eventually id like to upgrade the steering box and do a crossover steering set up to get rid of the drop draglink , ill take the 4degree shims out and try to find a good pinion angle/caster compromise.

 

Yes, standard practice is to take the old two wires and splice them together to the one new wire.

That's interesting about perhaps the later years. But the older '60's style switches do not thread into the new prop/combination valves. Threads are completely different. Hence the need to twist the three together.
But I have not tried checking later years to see if Ford changed them.

Not quite. At least not on the ones I've worked with. They are both in fact grounds. They're actually tied together into one circuit if I'm not mistaken. The diagrams are confusing, but I think that's how it works.
The switched power is always at the dash warning lamp, which is a non-grounded housing. No connection to the dash.
So 12v is potentially at the lamp but with nowhere to go because the two ground paths are open. So no light.
The wire that comes out of the lamp passes to one terminal of the 2-wire switch. Then the other wire goes to the prove-out connector on the side of the ignition switch. Essentially creating one circuit with two potential ground paths.
If either path grounds, the warning light comes on.

So if the switch is tripped by a fault in the brake system the lamp comes on as the switch contact grounds through the block to the frame. When the ignition switch is turned to the START position the prove-out (or proof-out) grounds the circuit through the dash and lights up the lamp as a test each time the starter cranks.

Paul