on it when I bought it that was installed by a local repair shop. 
porportioning valve
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porportioning valve
I swapped out the mastercylinder/power brake booster on my F150 but the braking is still not what I expect. The truck had a disc brake conversion on it when I bought it that was installed by a local repair shop. The pedla move quite a bit before I get any action and I am wondering if I need to install a porportioning valve. It has an old one mounted n the fram but it is not currently "in the system".
VV
VV
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From: Pa.
In that case I don't see how anything but an adjustable proportioning valve would be the correct choice ..
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1975 and newer F150 2WD's and 1976 and newer F150 4WD's came with power front disc brakes as standard equipment!
The problem with the erratic brake pedal movement is: The P/B booster must match the brake pedal, because:
1973/79 F100/350: There are 22 different brake pedals, 19 different power brake boosters, 17 different master cylinders, 7 different clutch pedals, I kid you not!
If you installed the wrong booster, you're going to have brake pedal problems.
Your truck has this, as it was factory installed: D5TZ-2B257-B .. Brake Pressure Differential Valve (some people call this a proportioning valve).
Applications: 1975/79 F100/150 2WD/4WD / 1975/79 F250 2WD with single piston caliper disc brakes / 1976/79 E100/150 & Bronco / 1978/79 F250 4WD / 1979 F350 4WD
Redroad: No F150 prior to 2004 came with dual piston caliper disc brakes, all have single pistons.
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From: Pa.
There are some who however have correctly upgraded to dual piston calipers in order to run larger tires ..
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I swapped out the mastercylinder/power brake booster on my F150 but the braking is still not what I expect.
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I believe the conversion is th eone from LMC and the e-brake is the original cable set-up.
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Lead Driver
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From: Pa.
I believe the conversion is th eone from LMC and the e-brake is the original cable set-up.
Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
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Full pedal has more to do with proper brake bleeding to include bench bleeding the master cylinder when installing a new one .. This is assuming you have adjusted rear brakes which you don't have .. if still no full pedal Next you would check the master cylinder to brake booster adjustment rod but this is rarely needed ..
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From: Puyallup, WA
You will absolutely need an aftermarket (i.e. adjustable) proportioning valve. As mentioned above, it is critical to get the correct amount of braking bias between the front and rear for not only maximum stopping power, but overall safety. If you lock up you front brakes before the rear, you run the risk of understeer (hey that rhymes), if you lock up the rears first, you will be doing 360s in the middle of intersections.
This is one that would work for your needs:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...0922/overview/
And here is an article on dialing it in if you've never done it before:
Hydratech Braking Systems - Brake Bias Tech
This is one that would work for your needs:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...0922/overview/
And here is an article on dialing it in if you've never done it before:
Hydratech Braking Systems - Brake Bias Tech
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