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I had moisture across 80% of the top of each battery coming from the vent caps. The drivers side positive post was as bad as the pictures Jack posted, and even the drivers side negative post had a small amount.
That's one nice thing about the Everstart Maxx the last 4 to 5 years, they are sealed in that area. They have a little port on the side for venting, and if you want to get real protective of the area (PCM connections nearby), you can run a hose down to the lower section. these are ideal for our Lincoln LS as it has it's battery in the trunk and vents down, just like the '65 Shelby GT-250's did.
If they are venting that much, you might want to get checked out for overcharging.
Keep em plugged into my Battery Tender all the time when parked in garage. Jack's wiring upgrage and 190 amp alternator are also helping. On my 3rd or 5th set.
I agree with you about Motorcraft batteries leaking. I’ve never seen any other brand new half as bad. The corrosion gets all over everything and starts growing up the cables. It’s terrible.
What brand did you go with?
I went with the Super Start brand from OReilly's. One thing I do notice is that they spin the starter much faster than Motorcraft batteries.
Keep em plugged into my Battery Tender all the time when parked in garage. Jack's wiring upgrage and 190 amp alternator are also helping. On my 3rd or 5th set.
I have Battery Tenders wired into both batteries but my truck lives in the driveway so they only get plugged in during cold nights-not too often in DFW, Texas.
I really want to do Jack’s Wiring Upgrade. Every time I look at it my brain reminds me why I’m a roofer and not an electrician.
The first you should do is to add an 8ga negative wire from the drivers battery terminal to the FICM/PCM ground bolt, and you could also add another from there to the secondary PCM and all the other major components at the firewall. That ensures the PCM, FICM, Trans, and fuel pump have low resistance.
I have Battery Tenders wired into both batteries but my truck lives in the driveway so they only get plugged in during cold nights-not too often in DFW, Texas.
I really want to do Jack’s Wiring Upgrade. Every time I look at it my brain reminds me why I’m a roofer and not an electrician.
I felt that way before I did it too. The hardest part was ordering the wires which was easy at gregsmarine.com. I can help you out with that if you want.
Data point for everyone. I finally bought a battery tester like Jack uses which somehow calculates CCA capacity without putting a big load on the battery. Both of my 3-year old Motorcraft batteries were at 660-680 CCA so I decided to replace. Went to Walmart on recommendations from here but they didn't have any group 65 850A batteries in stock. Plenty of 650 & 750. Even tried another Walmart and the same. Odd because online said they had them in stock for $130/each. So I decided to buy at Napa. Got their Napa "Legend" for $160/ea. Both tested out around 1075 and the truck cranks WAY faster than with the old batteries.
The battery tester has a "cranking test" where it will monitor the voltage drop during cranking. Won't even register as the voltage doesn't drop below 11.0 during cranking. Had to check it with my multi-meter to confirm. Thus far I'm happy. Well my wallet isn't happy as I need new tires as well but at least the truck is happy...
The first you should do is to add an 8ga negative wire from the drivers battery terminal to the FICM/PCM ground bolt, and you could also add another from there to the secondary PCM and all the other major components at the firewall. That ensures the PCM, FICM, Trans, and fuel pump have low resistance.
I thought it was far more complicated. I can do this. Thank you Jack!
I felt that way before I did it too. The hardest part was ordering the wires which was easy at gregsmarine.com. I can help you out with that if you want.
My brand new driver side battery is already building a mound of corrosion around the positive terminal.
It’s never generated so much so fast.
I also noticed a dime sized spot of electrolyte seeping out from under a cap on the passenger side battery-also brand new.
I know they aren’t getting hot. It’s November and December Texas weather.
What’s wrong with them that makes them qualify for exchange?
The corrosion is caused by gasses leaking out around the terminals. If I had brand new batteries causing serious corrosion, you can bet the farm I would try getting them exchanged. They may tell you to pound sand since they're replacements for warrantied batteries, but its worth a shot. The only thing you can do to stop or minimize the corrosion is to slather grease all over the terminals and cable clamps. The only way I know of anyhow.
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