Finally Started rebuilt 351W...need some help
Finally Started rebuilt 351W...need some help
I finally started my 351W I have been building after three years working on it. It is a good feeling to get it running, but now I need a little help.
First, what is the best setting for timing? I currently have it set at 11 degrees BTDC.
Second, and more troubling, I have a loud tick. Sounds like valve train on the passenger side. I need some advice on this one.
The engine is a 351W roller block being run off a 302 computer. The truck is a 1995. The valve train has 1.7 crane roller rockers. Cam is a stock 351W cam for a 1995 motor. The valve covers are ford racing cast aluminum covers. Push rods and lifters are new. Heads are GT-40. I am wondering about rocker contact with the valve covers? I did not detect any when assembling the engine.
Any other possibilities? Is this normal for this setup?
First, what is the best setting for timing? I currently have it set at 11 degrees BTDC.
Second, and more troubling, I have a loud tick. Sounds like valve train on the passenger side. I need some advice on this one.
The engine is a 351W roller block being run off a 302 computer. The truck is a 1995. The valve train has 1.7 crane roller rockers. Cam is a stock 351W cam for a 1995 motor. The valve covers are ford racing cast aluminum covers. Push rods and lifters are new. Heads are GT-40. I am wondering about rocker contact with the valve covers? I did not detect any when assembling the engine.
Any other possibilities? Is this normal for this setup?
Hard to know without being there or seeing a video, but a couple things come to mind.
The 1.7 aftermarket roller rockers are known to be a bit more audible than the stock 1.6 non roller, sounds like a sewing machine than a tap however.
Did you measure all 16 push rods for proper length? It’s not unusual to have an oddball pushrod from the others. It could be one or two is too short. I had that problem before and required a slightly longer push rod.
Set the base timing to 10° BTC (SPOUT removed). You can then advance in two degree increments until it starts to ping. Then back it off 2°.
The 1.7 aftermarket roller rockers are known to be a bit more audible than the stock 1.6 non roller, sounds like a sewing machine than a tap however.
Did you measure all 16 push rods for proper length? It’s not unusual to have an oddball pushrod from the others. It could be one or two is too short. I had that problem before and required a slightly longer push rod.
Set the base timing to 10° BTC (SPOUT removed). You can then advance in two degree increments until it starts to ping. Then back it off 2°.
I have not ruled out an exhaust leak. I am using JBK shorty headers...but a good gasket, remflex. It is possible though. I was thinking of getting a mechanics stethoscope to try and pinpoint the sound.
Remflex is the only gasket I’ve used that hasn’t leaked, but could be the nuts need to be tightened just a bit more.
Yep, a stethoscope should help a lot. I use a long piece piece of rubber vacuum hose, that way I can bend it around corners. The longer the better so you don’t have to bend over so much.
Yep, a stethoscope should help a lot. I use a long piece piece of rubber vacuum hose, that way I can bend it around corners. The longer the better so you don’t have to bend over so much.
I made a pretty good stethoscope with some some 3/8 vinyl tube I had laying around.
Added a hard plastic leg foot off something with an 8th inch hole drilled in it on one end for the ear.
On the other I added a 3 inch section of copper tube for poking into hot areas like header flanges.
Works real well. Wished I made one years ago.
Added a hard plastic leg foot off something with an 8th inch hole drilled in it on one end for the ear.
On the other I added a 3 inch section of copper tube for poking into hot areas like header flanges.
Works real well. Wished I made one years ago.
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So, I checked the torque on the exhaust manifold. Everything was still 20 ft lbs as per Remflex. I don't think exhaust is the issue. The ticking sound is not present at startup on a cold motor. The tick builds in as the motor heats up and then stays when hot. When cold, it has the sewing machine sound I would expect. I got a mechanic's stethoscope from HF. It sounds like the noise is coming from either #1 or #2 valve train...either rockers or lifters. The lifters are new. The crane 1.7 roller rockers were used, and came with the head. I did not find any issues with them, except for two rockers, which I replaced. I have included a couple videos so you can here the ticking and maybe give me a better idea before I start pulling things back apart.
Andy,
I wasn’t able to get either of those videos to work. Perhaps you need to post them on Google Drive and provide a link?
Maybe a lifter has collapsed, although I’m not sure if that would cause you to hear the tick only when warm/hot. Are the lifters new or did you reuse them?
I wasn’t able to get either of those videos to work. Perhaps you need to post them on Google Drive and provide a link?
Maybe a lifter has collapsed, although I’m not sure if that would cause you to hear the tick only when warm/hot. Are the lifters new or did you reuse them?
So, I checked the torque on the exhaust manifold. Everything was still 20 ft lbs as per Remflex. I don't think exhaust is the issue. The ticking sound is not present at startup on a cold motor. The tick builds in as the motor heats up and then stays when hot. When cold, it has the sewing machine sound I would expect. I got a mechanic's stethoscope from HF. It sounds like the noise is coming from either #1 or #2 valve train...either rockers or lifters. The lifters are new. The crane 1.7 roller rockers were used, and came with the head. I did not find any issues with them, except for two rockers, which I replaced. I have included a couple videos so you can here the ticking and maybe give me a better idea before I start pulling things back apart.
Sounds exactly like my engine did with incorrect push rods.
Yes, sucks its passenger side. Is the drivers side that much quieter, or is it the intake that is amplifying the sound?
Here's what mine sounded like:
The noise is definitely audible on the driver's side as well. Using the stethoscope on the valve covers on either side, I can hear the noise on both sides...it just seems louder and sharper over #1/#2 cylinders.
Last edited by andy011; Nov 4, 2021 at 07:48 PM. Reason: add
The baffles on those valve covers are in the same location as stock. I don't think they are hitting. If they were, the stethoscope should have given it away.









