Is that with the roller or stamped stock rockers that is giving you side to side play?

 

rollers. I have not decided if I will try the stamped ones yet.

 

What is the part number for the 1.7 crane roller rockers?

 

CRN-44746-16. They have the ford part numbers on them as well. I'm not sure if they are even made anymore, as Summit is out of stock.

 

Just read this thread from 10 years ago:
Noisy Crane Cobra rockers | Ford Mustang Forums (corral.net)

Your not the only one.
You have a couple of options, go tighter on your preload, different springs, live with the noise(could be the bearings are shot in the used rockers), or buy new rockers.

 

I read the link. Thanks. Very similar to my situation. I have followed the same torquing procedures recommended in that thread, and even did the measurement of the top of the head to mark the pushrod I was testing with. The only think I hadn't seen was to check for contact with the spring retainer. I have since done that, and it is not the issue.

 

Here is were I am at after some testing with my push rod gauge. wwhite suggested early on in this thread that I might need longer push rods. When I check the push rods I used in the build (7.500"), the torque procedure seems to give me the correct preload, but when the valves are closed I get a lot of side to side motion on the rockers. I can easily wiggle them side to side. So, I tried using an original push rod from the engine I rebuilt (which measures about 0.010" longer), and my pushrod gauge set at 0.025" longer, which would be what the next size up push rod would be, or 7.525". After installing and torque each, and then rotating the engine over twice, I still get a slight side to side wiggle using the original engine pushrod, although it is slightly tighter. With the push rod gauge set 0.025" longer, I get no wiggle at all. Everything stays tight. When tightening the push rod gauge in, it is right at max (1 turn) of preload.

Right now, I am thinking the best course of action is to order the 7.525" push rods. I am hoping on some comments on side to side wiggle of the rockers before I go ahead and order, as I really do not know if it supposed to have side to side wiggle or not.

 

If your preload is at Around .030" with 7.500 then going to 7.525 should tighten up to be about .055.
Sounds good to me.

 

Update:I swapped out the push rods with the next size up. No change with the tick on startup. No tick when cold, then builds in with heat up of the engine. I'm not sure what to try next.

 

I’m curious how you determined the rockers are definitely not contacting the valve covers?

If it were me, and you have verified the above is not an issue, I would change out the rockers for a set of stock, and see what you have.

 

I've had the valve covers off twice now. There is no sign of contact on the inside on either the valve covers or the rockers. I do agree, going to the stock set of rockers is probably the next step.

I will ask is setting up the stock rockers the same procedure as with the roller rockers? The Haynes manual I have talks about compressing the lifter with a special tool and then measuring the valve stem to rocker gap. I was wondering if there was a different method, similar to measuring the lifter preload.

 

I put non self-aligning roller rockers in my 408 w/ 7/16" studs and guideplates...Beefed them up with stud girdles too.........Theres a bigger story behind it too but not that important to share ATM...

Theyre making noise at startup that make me sound like a novice at setting valves until about after a minute of running they quiet out...Found out the noise is the pushrods tapping the guideplates and the nylon pushrod guides that fit into the guideplate slots made by crane arent available anymore soo......




I bought these self aligning shaft mounted full roller roller rockers as a fix.....I got them on Sunday via FedEx.....I'll let you all know how I make out after I install it...................

I was gonna install them today but it seems its missing 1 adjustable pushrod cup also adjuster nut which Im not happy about........A replacement is on the way..








1.7 rockers and stock heads will require a Louis tool if not clearanced in advance during rebuild to make enough clearance for the pushrods so they dont make contact with the heads...With my Edelbrock heads thats not an issue.....


Good Luck

 

What camshaft are you running and how did you figure your pushrod length....Did you use blue dye-chem and adjustable pushrod tools..........?

Stock Ford pushrods in late model 351w's are 8.150" long and .030" shorter in the older 351w's and closer to 8.06" long.....

With my Edelbrock heads .041" head gasket and Edelbrock Pro Magnum full roller non self aligning roller rockers my pushrod checker getting the best tip to stem geometry I had to go with an 8.350" pushrod length...

You have any pics of the rockers to pushrod angle with valves set and at TDC....? My hydraulic flat tappet camshafts call for 1/2" turn of preload from zero lash........I always go a tad more at 5/8".

What are you using for a fuelpump,injectors and what type is the camshaft? Is it a computer controlled camshaft? The differemce in computer controlled and non-computer controlled is in the lobe seperation...114 degrees of lobe sep is the lowest you can go with computer controlled without going chip, maf conversion and custom tune and non-computer controlled is a lobe sep lower than 112 down to 101 degrees....The lower the number the higher the idle chop and the lower the vacuum signal too....Thats why cc cams are no lower than 114 degrees because engines require alot of vacuum to run stuff smoothly...

Does your balancer have marks at every 90 degrees to make finding TDC for each cylinder easier?

Heres my setup with pushrods .100" longer than stock but .100" too short... Look at pushrod angle....Its a lil too extreme and sorry to say how my engine guy did the task as I was way too busy to build it myself but ended up fixing the issue...worst part is it was run and dyno'd with pushrods .100" too short too............quite disturbing ...



The roller tip wasnt quite sweping totally centered on the valve tip...





Heres with a pushrod .100" longer....Pushrod angle is alot more better and valve tip sweeps across the center of the valvetip too.......





Good Luck

 

Are they Self aligning or non-self aligning roller rockers & Are you running guideplates?

Sounds like you nedd to seal those headders up a lil better......I use these....I take Ultra red RTV and fill the void up to the lip...let tack up then I install with bolts barely snug until the RTV cures then I tighten down on the screws.......Havent had a leak yet either..............https://www.holley.com/products/gask...ts/parts/7410G




Good Luck

 

This is a roller block with a roller cam stock is 7.567" pushrod.

You have a non-roller block.