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I need help / instructions wiring the brake warning light switch in the combination valve to the brake light switch wires. I have enclosed a photo of my current set up. There is a single wire (brown wire in photo) coming from the brake warning light switch in the combination valve, however, the brake light switch wiring has two wires; one Red (hot) & one Red w/ black tracer. How do I hook these up? Do these three wires hook up together? If no, what can I do?
My truck is a 1965 F100, 352. I swapped a "76 front end with disc brakes so I now have disc brakes in the front and drum brakes in the back. I also added the Power Brake booster.
Please help.
Yes, as I understand it. The brake light switch in the old set up is independent of the brake warning switch in the combination valve.
I'm at a loss of what to do.
I am searching the internet for a 2 wire brake warning switch to fit the combination valve but have yet to find one. Will keep searching.
Did you call CPP and ask if they would have a 2 wire switch (closes circuit when pressurized) that would install in place of the warning light one wire switch?
It appears to be their master and valve - they should know whether that port will even work for the type of switch you need. Many folks move the brake light switch inside the cab and use a mechanical switch activated by pedal movement. Others add a tee in a brake line that has a 1/8” female pipe thread fort to accept the original style pressure activated switch.
I just did this recently. Used the single wire from the combination valve. Here is a link to my thread about it. One of my last posts describes how I did it.
Becky is a 66: I have emailed CPP and they do not sell a two wire Brake warning light switch, CPP suggested I do as you said in your reply; add a “T” in the brake line.
rm6364: Thanks for the link. I quickly read your last post. I will need to read it again to make sure i understand everything. I am a slow learner, to say the least. I am great at looking at photos though. Do you happen to have a photo or two that you would share of the final product?
Maybe I'm misunderstanding something here. It sounds like you are trying to use the warning light switch (or at least location) as the brake light switch. They are distinctly different. Brake light wiring goes to the brake light switch and activates the brake lights. Warning light wiring goes to the warning light switch and activates a light on the dash to alert you to a potential problem. In the case of our trucks, you would have to add this light. You don't have to do this but it's a nice feature to have since it is now equipped.
I would do the mechanical brake light switch under the dash to further modernize it. When adjusted correctly, this activates the brake lights the instant the pedal is pushed, rather than after some amount of pressure exists in the brake line. The way I drive, my brake lights often don't come on with the hydraulic switch and that is dangerous since people behind won't be clued in that it's slowing down. It also simplifies under h0od wiring slightly and eliminates one more source of potential hydraulic failure.
That is an interesting thought. I reread your initial post and now I am wondering what you are trying to achieve. Wiring your combination valve will not make your brake lights work. They are indeed separate. If you are trying to wire a switch to work your brake lights, here is my post on how I did that with a switch under the dash using the brake pedal to activate. And there are pictures.
Coopster...do as Charlie and Rick suggest. A mechanical, or plunger brake light switch will work better and, in the long run, is more trouble free. The warning light just tells you if either the front or back side of the master cylinder has failed as indicated by movement of the plunger under the hydraulic switch on your proportioning valve.
Got to agree with posts #10,11, 12. That single wire switch will work a brake warning light just fine. But a stop light switch will never work on that proportioning valve. The switches in the proportioning valves are mechanically triggered not pressure triggered. They won't activate unless the piston moves.
Great INFORMATION.
Thanks everyone for the input. Exactly what I was looking for and needed. Appreciate the confirmation about the Stop Warning Switch in the combination valve. I have read where some people don't hook it up. Their reasoning; you are going to know when there is a brake problem and you will know if before "a light comes on".
I'm going to gather information and read about hooking up a Stop Light Switch to the brake pedal. This seems to be the best way to go.
I'll get after it.
Thanks again. If anyone has additional information you would be willing to share, please do.
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