Yes, like Sous said, check those connections first. This is what I was getting at when describing it still starting on one battery. My truck was just a bad connection at the passenger side. Dad’s truck actually needed a new battery (also on the passenger side) which possibly was also due to a long term bad connection.

Quick checks can be performed with the MM but make sure you’re testing on the battery post and not the cable connection. Both batteries should be the same voltage before and after starting. After initial start when the highest alternator charging is occurring may be the best time to spot a connection issue.

I would also pull them and have the parts store do individual load testing.

 

Yes, Andersen connectors are what I was referring to. Couldn't remember the name previously. The idea was to use them to power a receiver mounted winch that I could use on the truck or trailer, with the add benefit that they could be used to connect jumper cables at front or rear of truck. That would mean that I have to sun those cables on both this truck and the F-100. Since it appears that a jump box would handle both winch power and jump starting for both vehicles and trailer, I think that would be a better option at this point in time.

Don't worry about that I'm not rushing into anything. I don't have time to rush into anything. Will definitely go through all my connections before I haul off and start replacing parts. Right now most of my free time is going to school and I don't see a break in that before the end of class in December. I can get out and work on this troubleshooting and cleaning a bit at a time when I need a break from school and work.

I'm pretty certain that I did see that since getting the truck, but didn't pay much attention to it because I didn't think I needed a starter. It is an interesting and ingenious mod, but I don't think it is a good idea for me. First, if I'm going to the trouble of replacing the starter I want a new, or at least good reman, unit instead of a used one. Second, in addition to the 6.7 starter, I would have to buy a 7.3 starter since I'm pretty certain that mine has the 3 bolt Mitsubishi style starter. With no good junkyards or pick-n-pulls in my area, I'd be money ahead with buying a single new/reman starter than two used ones. No matter how I look at it I'd be spending $150 - $200 on a 6.7 starter mod, when I can get a new Denso style starter for only a little more or even less if I go through RockAuto..

I might do that some time just to see what they say. Pulling two battery cables and dropping it off at the parts store is about the easiest thing in the world. If my car can handle the weight of the two batteries might be another story..

 

Speaking of starters, this is the path I intend to take if/when the time comes. It’s actually on my order-before-old-one-fails list just like a Trombetta GPR. Now finally getting around to actually ordering is another story.

I’ve used this brand on the race car for years without so much as a hiccup.

Made in the USA as well.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...duty/year/1999

 

@RacinJasonWV When/If I have to replace the starter it will be with a gear reduction starter. I've read about the cross member clearance issues with the Denso starter. Does the Power Master have that same problem?

I don't mind doing a little clearancing if it comes to that, but if I can avoid it by using the power master I might go that route.

 

Jason has provided a viable alternative to the Denso and I trust his judgement, opinion and choice of products. As you can see, there are several options for you to choose from if you need a starter, each of them having their own advantages.

Speaking to the "clearance" issue with the Denso or other gear reduction "large" starters... I had zero issues with the Denso fitting in the space that was designed for the OEM starter. No grinding, no modifying, no cutting... There was a bit of an angle required when lifting the starter up to the mounting surface, but other than that no issues at all. I did the install myself with no help from a jack or anything, so it must not be too difficult.

I mention this not to talk up the Denso, but to talk about the "larger" starters that are available.

 

Honestly it’s been a while since I researched it and threw it in my Summit wish list. Last night when grabbing the link I did notice the first review stated clearancing needed, but the next few didn’t mention it. Read through some reviews at Summit and a general online search for a better understanding of potential complications before pulling the trigger.

I’ve seen reviews on FB groups praising this starter (which I usually take lightly) and I think I’ve seen a few on here as well. My choice is based on this feedback coupled with my personal experience of this brand on my car. I also get a slight discount due to being a pro member of Summit so that also helps my decision.