Great another Cold Start/Won't start thread.............I read through what I could using the search function......
So my 2001 7.3 sat for about a week since I put 500 miles on it the weekend before last, and temps were starting to get colder here, 24 F this morning. I forgot to put the block heater on last night but threw it on for 30mins before I wanted to leave...........try to start it up, cranks fine but no ignition..........so I pull the key and wait 15 seconds or so, start the whole process again, won't turn over.
I figured it was just too cold froma week of sitting and cold temps and assumed the small time with the heater wasn't enough.........so I grabbed my other truck and went to work with the Ford still plugged in for the heater. I just had my wife try it some 3 hours later and same thing...........cranks, but won't kick over.
I smelled some diesel after I was done trying this morning.......not sure if that is relevant, but I rarely have that smell.
I asked my wife if the starter was cranking with authority to determine if the batteries were out of juice and she said everything sounded "normal" which of course is subjective.
The truck was running flawlessly up to this point.
Additional information for everyone (as I know I can count on you guys to offer your thoughts)..............I currently have 15W-40 in it with about 4000 miles on it; ironically I was planning on changing to lighter weight oil for the colder starts this coming week..........
Whqt else.........um, only 88K on the truck..........running stock chip, Air Raid intake and 5" Magnaflow.......EGT Gauge and boost gauge...........

I don't believe I got any smoke while it was cranking........which suggests it isn't firing the fuel........batteries?

 

I had a similar problem and posted a similar thread, but I cranked mine for an hour to get it to start. there has to be a long term solution for this.

 

When I get home today I am going to crank it and watch for smoke and watch my tachometer for rpms.........

I read it needs 200rpm to fire injectors in one thread and 400rpm in another...which is it? anyone know?

Also, if it cranking low rpms and I suspect the batteries are low.........what is the procedure for jump starting these rigs with two batteries? Do I go through the normal WTS cycle etc.?

Thanks

 

I don't know what rpm is needed to start but I know you need 10.5 volts while cranking to fire the injectors/IDM. If you have to jump it yes do the normal WTS

 

When you get home, check the voltage first, check your battery connections, clean the heck out of them and use an anti corrosive on it, Nolax is decent. Then lets go from there.

 

Guess I'll stop at Lowes and grab a decent multi-meter.........add that to the tool collection. If nothing else, I'm getting well versed in some auto-repair by keeping a Subaru Outback with 160K miles, A Tundra with 140K miles and the PSD with 88K miles rolling along putting 3000+ miles a month on them.

All my tools are geared towards home building......especially after we compelted our own log cabin last year.........now the collection of auto stuff is coming along.

I'll get the multi meter........I assume I am just checking each battery as a stand alone (terminal to terminal)? Looking for something north of the 10.5V to get the ignition to fire.......?

Additionally I'll crank it and check for smoke and rpm........the block heater is still plugged in........figured it can't hurt.

 

No need for searching past threads, Jim has made a sticky of information since it is that time of the year: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ky-thread.html

 

Awesome...........Thanks.

It is warming up outside (still in the high 30's or low 40's but black truck in the sun)......so my wife is going to give it another whirl in a few.......told her to watch for exhaust smoke and check the tachomter while cranking............

 

So on the way home I picked up 5W-40 Rotella Syn and a new filter for a change in the next few days......in the dark of course (no garage)......and a multi meter.

So I power up the multi meter........pop the hood of the rig and look at the multi meter......switch it to 12V Battery.......I'm a guy so the manual is just something that goes on the counter to be filed with the other crap....I figure how hard could a multi meter be? So I touch the leads to the driver's side battery.........I get nothing.....0.00V.....wtf? Well let me try the other one......I get 12.xx V.....hmmmm.....go back to the other battery......get some low single digit readings......looks like I'm onto something.

So I navigate the backyard full of dog crap landmines with a small flashlight; grab the 20 year old battery booster from the shed.......on the wayback through the mine-field I am womdering if the cob-webs, misc. lawn mowing debris etc. all over this device will render the 20yr+ old guts useless or a fire hazard.......get to the rig plug the booster into the cord....attach my leads to the "dead" battery..........jump in......go through the WTS process say a little prayer (while holding the flashlight to see the rpms of course) and crank..........

she fires right up.....

then it happened......

the truck actually spoke to me.....muttered something about how any idiot would know it was a battery and how Mr. Fancy Pants ******* had to resort to the internet to solve the "problem"........but wait, it went further than that.....

the truck's language became more salty and it muttered something like......."keep driving that Toyota POS and I'll create some more mysteries to keep you busy for weeks....."

Thanks for the help as usual, luckily it was a simple one this time......this place is that awesome.

So here's the real question...........which batteries? What's the big deal with the Optimas? The Duralast at Autozone has more CCA than the Optimas that cost $80 more.......can someone clue me in? I'll pick up two new ones but I don't want to do this again in a year.

Thanks

Steve

 

Optimas are overrated. Just pick up two good batteries.from your.store of choice and be happy. Get at least 850 cca, or even more.

 

Optimas are over-rated unless you are going to be going through some unusual angles (like upside down).

 

I thought somewhere it was mentioned though that upside down isnt the perfect condition for our trucks...just something to keep in mind I guess.

 

I thought I read that in the manual as well.......so barring flipping upside down, Optimas are just bling for under the hood..........I think I'll save the extra $160 and buy two decent Duralasts with 850 CCA or something similar.

 

Agreed. I've been on some steep hills and sharp turns, but never a road that would put a truck on its top, unless it is caused by driver error! That maneuver is damaging to the paint and wax, can damage glass, and even be painful to the occupants. Not recommended.

 

FORD= Flip Over Read Directions