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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 09:17 AM
  #1  
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Help with crank no start (Solved !)

I have a 1999 f450 so I usually spent time on this forum. I picked up a 1997 e350 quigley 4x4 ambulance that does not start. It ran and after sitting for two weeks stopped starting. I originally posted in the 1994-1997 forum but this area seems to get more traffic.I also respect the opinions and knowledge of all the 7.3 experts that hang out over here. I started chasing a low voltage problem which isn't solved yet. I was only getting 9.5 volts and 160rpm while cranking on charged batteries. I replaced the positive and negative cable clamps on the under hood battery cables and it improved to 10.2 volts while cranking and 165 rpm.

I have two known good batteries in my 1999 7.3 that I can swap to rule the batteries out. I'm planning to remove and clean the main ground cable connection and ground strap connections this weekend. Any advice is appreciated. I'm hoping to get this project running and sold before winter in PA. Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 09:21 AM
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Load test the batteries. Check all connections including grounds.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2021 | 09:39 AM
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Thanks. I plan to remove and clean the main ground cable that bolts to the block this weekend. There are a bunch of other connections that share the same point. I had the batteries tested and autozone and advanced auto but their tester didn't seem really accurate.I think the batteries are 2-3 years old. I have two agm batteries that are one year old I can try out.

 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 07:49 PM
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What is the engine oil level and fuel level?

It would be good to see what fuel pressure is at Key On. Can you hear the pump running? Any smoke from the tailpipe during cranking?

This ICP signature is a bit strange - not sure I trust it. Try unplugging the ICP sensor and see if it will start.

VREF is steady at 5V. VPWR seems ok, 12.1 with glow plugs on, dipping to 10.2 during crank. FUELPW is commanding over 1ms so CPS should be good, and fuel should be delivered if fuel pressure is good.




Linking to the thread Loamranger has going in the 94.5-97 forum for reference:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ease-help.html
 
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Old Oct 4, 2021 | 09:42 AM
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@Loamranger , 10.2v is the bare minimum that Ford says the batteries need to be in order to start. Perhaps have the batteries load tested as BDP stated and/or clean the main grounds and positive connections.

Also, if you have not seen them yet, there are a couple of "no start flow charts" in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder. I understand that you have a 1997 E-350, but a lot of the parameters the PCM is looking for follow on through the 1994.5 - 2003 7.3L.
Keep us updated!
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 03:13 PM
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I replaced the started with a gear reduction denso and two new batteries. I'm still getting 9.5 volts while cranking. The truck has no smoke while cranking. I checked the HPOP reservoir and it is full. I replaced the CPS with a black motorcraft unit. I tried to start with the ICP plug disconnected and it did not make a difference.

Should I order new battery cables?

I've been trying to get the truck to start for three months. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!


 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 03:56 PM
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Any codes?

Try running the KOEO injector electrical self test and the Key On Engine off on demand self test. Let's see what they report.




That fuel pressure is still low, but I would expect it to be adequate to start. It is something I would look into correcting.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 04:17 PM
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BWST - Thanks. I'm have forscan on my laptop. I didn't see these tests listed where I selected the pids. I
m probably looking in the wrong spot. I attached a forscan csv from today.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2021 | 01:53 AM
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9.5V cranking with new batteries and starter is no bueno. Likely to be bad cables so inspect and drop some pics.

What is the voltage with nothing engaged (should be 14ish) and voltage with it recently clicked over to run, but not start. That will show the draw by the glow plugs etc. Should be 11 or better 12v.

Also 30 psi fuel pressure is too low. IIRC 40ish psi is Ford minimum. If low fuel pressure is the problem I would expect to see lots of white smoke when trying to start.

If the pump sounds strong for 20 seconds when keyed on you can try pulling the intake side of the pump and rigging up a hose from there to a fresh can of fuel. If that fixes fuel pressure the restriction is in the tank.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2021 | 06:20 AM
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Did you charge the batteries?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2021 | 09:58 AM
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From PSD Diagnosis on the Cheap!, here is a screenshot of where to find the tests in the windows version:



 
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Old Dec 28, 2021 | 01:07 PM
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Old Dec 28, 2021 | 01:08 PM
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Old Dec 28, 2021 | 01:14 PM
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I soldered on new battery cable ends and it increased the voltage while cranking. I think there might be some type of parasitic draw on the batteries. They seems to drop off quickly. It is an ambulance so there is a ton of wiring. I disconnected the main ambulance panel that controls the lights but I need to do more digging. Here is the rpm and voltage from the last crank attempt.





 
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12-27 three cranks.csv (146.0 KB, 37 views)
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Old Dec 28, 2021 | 01:35 PM
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Nice improvement in cranking voltage.

What tests did you run? I can't tell what codes go with what test from the screen shots above. How did the KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test (buzz test) sound?

I think we can ignore the P0113 for now. I don't see the typical P1316 IDM communication code, but the other IDM codes P1663, P1667, P1668 may be pointing to a bad IDM. Recommend checking the wiring for continuity, short to ground, short to power from the IDM connector to the PCM connector and to the UVCH's, and getting eyes on the IDM itself - see if it has water/corrosion in it.

If that checks out good, either send in your IDM for check/repair, or replace it. Diesel Technology of Chattanooga is a good source for IDM testing/repair.

Here's a thread from the 1994.5-1997 forum on the P1663 code. This person's issue was the IDM:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-failure.html

And one on the P1668 code after a failed buzz test, also was the IDM:

https://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/s....php?p=1533567

Do you have an IDM relay in a fuse panel per your owner's manual? I'm not familiar with the '97. If so, you could try swapping it and the horn relay, or something similar.
 
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