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Right now I just have a bent locking pin with disc detainers for lock internals. Whatever was on the shelf at Home Depot. My next locking pin will be a PacLock. https://www.paclock.com/product-line...s_80a_125_250/
I picked up the Bulletproof 3” locking straight pin. It looks nice… can’t say how it holds up yet since I haven’t installed my hitch yet, but Bulletproof seems to have a good standing for making good products. My new Anderson WDH came in the other day and I plan to set it up next week!
I picked up the Bulletproof 3” locking straight pin. It looks nice… can’t say how it holds up yet since I haven’t installed my hitch yet, but Bulletproof seems to have a good standing for making good products. My new Anderson WDH came in the other day and I plan to set it up next week!
My advice on the install is, "Don't set it up too short or too long." Too short and you can't tighten it up enough. Too long and you can't get the nut on. Expect things to stretch a little bit after the first few tows.
My advice on the install is, "Don't set it up too short or too long." Too short and you can't tighten it up enough. Too long and you can't get the nut on. Expect things to stretch a little bit after the first few tows.
Sorry for the thread drift...
I was going to use this video as a guide when setting it up.
In the video he states that after installing the triangle plate to install the chain through the tongue bracket, then put the red spring and washer on, then tighten the nut leaving about 1.5 threads exposed. He then tightens the tongue brackets to the frame, and then makes adjustments (4 revolutions) with the large socket.
To unhitch, I'm planing to simply raise the trailer with the truck still attached, then pulling the pin and dropping the triangle plate. It sounds like backing back up in the same orientation may be the toughest part of the re-hitching.
Is there something you would suggest doing a little different?
I never drop the triangle plate as part of my unhitching routine. I remove the chains from the triangle plate. That said, I recommend an annual inspection of the pin that holds the triangle plate on. Mine was bent and it was a booger to remove.
Before you back your trailer into place, get to a spot where the truck and trailer are straight. Drop the chains at that point. That way the triangle plate is always at the right angle. That said, if I forget, and the trailer is a bit off center I don't worry to much about it. Just back up to it the same way. Close is good enough.
When I am not towing the RV the Bulletproof hitch is completely removed. If I'm towing the RV directly to the next stop with no overnights in between, I just use the pins that came with the hitch. If however I need to leave the RV hooked up overnight I'll use the Amplock.
just curious if anyone has had hitch stolen? i use whatever lock came with the hitch
Im sure someone has had their hitch stolen, but I don’t personally know anyone that this has happened too…
As for that video, wow, I shouldn’t be surprised, but I never thought about someone doing something as simple as that to steal a hitch! This was enlightening, but, I also realize that this video was made to sell one brand over another. I know the video wasn't shared here to promote one brand over another, but it does make me think about the locking pin I decided on, which was the one from Bulletproof. I would like to think that the quality of the metal that Bulletproof uses is a higher quality than the most likely poor quality pins intentionally used in the video… but I’m not going to go and purposely destroy a $50 locking pin to find out! Lol! Besides, I guess all of these can be overcome if someone really wants to…
Saying all of that… I kind of like the idea of just a bolt with some washers and a nut… but then again, anyone with a wrench can have it off just as fast! Likely less expensive though!
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