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Does anyone know who makes a Class V Hitch Receiver Lock for the new Super Duty. The outside Length on the hitch is 3". So I'm guessing the pin/lock would need to be 3 1/2" in length. My old Master receiver lock that I used on my 2012 F-350 is too short for the new hitches. So far I'm striking out with locating one.
I went directly to Trimax. 303-796-8500 Ordered a TH4 for the receiver. I have a Geny Hitch and the same size locking pin works for it as well. While I was at it, I had them send me pins for our F150 and Jeep and pins for 3 of my trailers. 7 locking pins in all and each of them came with 2 keys all keyed alike. Makes life simpler.
I went directly to Trimax. 303-796-8500 Ordered a TH4 for the receiver. I have a Geny Hitch and the same size locking pin works for it as well. While I was at it, I had them send me pins for our F150 and Jeep and pins for 3 of my trailers. 7 locking pins in all and each of them came with 2 keys all keyed alike. Makes life simpler.
Now that sounds pretty darn good. I've got multiple trailers too and that would make life simple to have them all keyed the same. Thanks for the info.
Thanks. I am going to look into that one as well as the Anderson
I've got the Anderson stainless steel and used it this past weekend and it bent . It's 5/8 shaft . I'm not liking it pulling 12000-14000 pull behind. I was hoping that the stainless would last a long time in the weather but it's bent not sure if the steel isn't strong enough. I bought the 2 piece set same key
I've got the Anderson stainless steel and used it this past weekend and it bent . It's 5/8 shaft . I'm not liking it pulling 12000-14000 pull behind. I was hoping that the stainless would last a long time in the weather but it's bent not sure if the steel isn't strong enough. I bought the 2 piece set same key
Stainless can be pretty lame when compared to steel. If you are having problems you should revert to steel. A badly deformed pin can be a real bear to remove. Something else not being addressed is the 3" has a 3/4" hole, not 5/8". Although the 5/8" seem to be working there has to be some slop in the fitment. If using a 2 1/2" or 2" reducer, the holes are 5/8" but the receiver tube on the truck is 3/4". Maybe I am OCD but I believe this is excessive tolerance.
This is what I use for 3 of my pulling rigs, 2 Fords and a Jeep. I also have one of the padlocks on my Jeep's rear tire rack on the bumper.
Uses the vehicle ignition key. Give you Platinum & KR boys a reason to take the key out of your pocket.
Stainless can be pretty lame when compared to steel. If you are having problems you should revert to steel. A badly deformed pin can be a real bear to remove. Something else not being addressed is the 3" has a 3/4" hole, not 5/8". Although the 5/8" seem to be working there has to be some slop in the fitment. If using a 2 1/2" or 2" reducer, the holes are 5/8" but the receiver tube on the truck is 3/4". Maybe I am OCD but I believe this is excessive tolerance.
Yes your right but the sleeves that ford provided are 5/8 but I'm sure that's what happened I could feel the jerk at stops and forward motion. I bought a Reese titan reducer 3-2 but it made my hitch to far from my truck and the trailer pigtail wouldn't plug up because of the new location of the 7 pin.
Yes your right but the sleeves that ford provided are 5/8 but I'm sure that's what happened I could feel the jerk at stops and forward motion. I bought a Reese titan reducer 3-2 but it made my hitch to far from my truck and the trailer pigtail wouldn't plug up because of the new location of the 7 pin.
Correct......the difficulty is that 5/8 has been standard for a long time. All the hitch components at 2" and 2 1/2" are 5/8". It would not be too difficult to bore all the components out to 3/4" and use the heavier pin for everything. If I find the correct adjustable hitch I will probably have an auction company come in to sell off the various components collected for towing over the past 40 years. Is there some kind of underworld dictating the changes in order to keep the hitch mfgs in business??? Well, maybe Craig's list for pennies on the dollar value.
I've got the Anderson stainless steel and used it this past weekend and it bent . It's 5/8 shaft . I'm not liking it pulling 12000-14000 pull behind. I was hoping that the stainless would last a long time in the weather but it's bent not sure if the steel isn't strong enough. I bought the 2 piece set same key
Ouch, that is not good. Thanks for the info, that was one of my finalists to order. Not anymore.
Ok went out and got a 3/4 " hitch pin . It doesn't fit the receiver. I've used the 5/8 pin with the 2 sleeves and it bent on first trip . Do I need to drill everything out to 3/4" and use a 3/4 pin to stop the sloop in the hitch
Ok went out and got a 3/4 " hitch pin . It doesn't fit the receiver. I've used the 5/8 pin with the 2 sleeves and it bent on first trip . Do I need to drill everything out to 3/4" and use a 3/4 pin to stop the sloop in the hitch
I would not drill it out but I find this interesting. Early fact sheets regarding the 3 inch hitch indicated the hole would be 3/4". The sleeves are 5/8" so the regular ball mounts would still be useful (5/8"). I guess we need more input regarding these issues. In the mean time you could use a Grade 8 bolt with a nyloc nut, or drill it to accept the retainer pin. This is curious.