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The rail is too wide for the lock mechanism to fit securely over the pin. It is about 1/2" shy of fitting and without trimming down the rail 1/2", I don't see a way to make it work.
I am now planning to return the lock to Amazon and look for another solution. I figured I could run a bicycle lock through the holes and around the hitch base, but would like something that is cleaner looking.
Ideas, thoughts, experiences in locking hitches to the rails?
I have that kind of pin but use it on the bumper hitch that I drive around with to serve as an extended bumper. just so no one can easily pull out that hitch.
Even with I towed a TT on that coupling I used the regular pin because it is of a larger diameter and filled the hole better. Figured bigger is better.
Using that pin to secure the 5th wheel hitch to the truck - may - might - could be - an issue due to the stress put on those pins and the slop in the hole due to the smaller dia.
If you just want something to lock the hitch to the bed when not in use then get a long shank padlock and that'll do the trick.
I have to admit that I never thought of the theft of the hitch being an concern, I have my hitch under the bed cover, but now you have me worried...
Haven't heard of a hitch being stolen, but have heard where people got "pranked". One couple went into a restaurant to eat. They returned to their truck/fiver and started to pull out of the lot only to have their fiver drop on their bed. Someone had undone their hitch. Upon returning to my rig, I check my hitch and the pins whenever I step away from my truck/fiver for that reason.
Scott, the pin itself is identical to the pins holding the hitch into the rails, except for the end where the lock fits onto it instead of a retainer pin. It fits perfectly into the hold down holes for the rail and hitch itself. Although, the lock goes over the pin about 1/2" too far and hits the rail itself before locking.
I don't really hear about hitches being stolen either, but with an Andersen hitch only weighing 50 pounds, it would not take much for someone to pull it from the bed. We do plan to get a cover for our truck bed as well, but a lock would make me feel a lot better about the $500 hitch sitting there.
I will figure something out, just not sure what yet.
EDIT: The long shank padlock is a good idea. Maybe something like this to keep the honest people honest.
Once problem with the first lock you show is that over time you may not be able to unlock it. A buddy of mine used one of those on the standard receiver hitch, and proceeded to leave it there for the entire season, and when he wanted to remove it, he couldn't and had to have it cut off. It had corroded to the point it couldn't be unlocked.
I guess I am too trusting, but wouldn't worry too much about it getting ripped off.
Once problem with the first lock you show is that over time you may not be able to unlock it. A buddy of mine used one of those on the standard receiver hitch, and proceeded to leave it there for the entire season, and when he wanted to remove it, he couldn't and had to have it cut off. It had corroded to the point it couldn't be unlocked.
I guess I am too trusting, but wouldn't worry too much about it getting ripped off.
Luckily I have never been faced with this situation. Although, when I do maintenance on the vehicles I will usually go through and put either some graphite powder or dry chain lube spray into the hitch locks.
With all of the traveling and parking lots/garages that the truck will be taken too, I would like that peace of mind that there is a lock on it, especially if it only costs a few dollars.
All I have ever done on my hitches is to drill out the hole in the pin and use a keyed master lock.
I just bought 4 keyed alike master locks. 2 of them will go on my adapter plate for the hitch and two of them will go on opposite corner pins on the hitch.
Problem solved.
Sous, I may be thinking about the part of the shank that goes into the actual lock housing. And now djousma has me worrying if I can even unlock the one I currently use. Its been a good year since I put it on, guess I'll find out tonight.
The book says my over 170lbs all three parts combined. Hoping that is enough of a deterrent.
If your serious about locking it I wouldn't use a cable lock, go with a hardened long shank.
All I have ever done on my hitches is to drill out the hole in the pin and use a keyed master lock.
I just bought 4 keyed alike master locks. 2 of them will go on my adapter plate for the hitch and two of them will go on opposite corner pins on the hitch.
Problem solved.
bigodn68
That is a very good idea. Going to do that this weekend.
BTW, my lock was frozen but a good dose of WD40 and some work freed it up.
Reese Hitch, make a Lock Link Kit. 4 comes to the package. This fits over your pin that holds your hitch in the truck, and the hitch head pins, in place of the clip pin.
I put 2 on the hitch, and the other two on the head pins. All you need is a pack of 4 locks/keys set.
Reese Pt #58093. I sold my Reese hitch, and got a Pull Rite and still use these locks..
(I hope I attached the picture correctly. If not you can look this up by the part number.)
If you have a Tractor Supply store or similar farm equipment place nearby, a common clevis pin should do the job. Just use a good padlock in the hole. I suspect what you need is probably 5/8" and IIRC, there are several available lengths in that diameter. Cost will be in the neighborhood of 3-4 bucks plus your padlock.
Nope. Never heard of a Hitch being stolen.
I got these with my first hitch, thrown in free of change., many years ago. So I use them.
I would worry more about someone taking the pins/clips, then the hitch itself.
Nope. Never heard of a Hitch being stolen.
I got these with my first hitch, thrown in free of change., many years ago. So I use them.
I would worry more about someone taking the pins/clips, then the hitch itself.
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