Does the motor need to use glow plugs all the time to start? I have taken my relay out so they are not functional right now, but could it be possible to start without glow plugs on a warmer day?

 

In my experience it will only start without plugs if your pump and injectors are in good shape. Otherwise, pack a can of starting fluid and you'll likely only need it once a day.

 

I don`t like to use Ether but if you have to, you have to.
I like to use a heat Gun shoved down the Intake.
Remove the Air Cleaner lid, remove the element. Let the
Heat Gun run a Min or so, and turn the engine over with it
running and it will start. Make sure drop Cord is out of the
way of moving Engine parts.

I guess you could connect a Jumper cable from the + Pos
Batt post to the large wire that connected to the Relay going
to the GP for 6 or 8 seconds and then turn the key and she
should come to life.


Charlie

 

Yeah I have no clue what the IP/injectors look like but I'm assuming "okay" at absolute best. Alright yeah I'm using ether right now for sure, just wondering if starting without GP was possible at all.

 

My truck is giving me start issues due to a worn IP allowing it to bleed down & let air in. The controller for my GPs was bad when I got the truck but have the relay wired for manual operation. But prior to this, when it's been 85-90+ outside...in the summer it can reach into the triple-digit-teens...it will fire off with only 2-3 seconds of cranking @ most w/o cycling the GPs. Like Plum said, if the engine is reasonably healthy & the ambient temp is sufficiently warm then starting w/o the plugs is certainly doable.

 

Right now, it's around 60 to 70, and it will not fire off without glow plugs.

 

If you have low compression it will be harder to start, w/o GP`s.


Charlie

 

As others have pointed out, yes you can. However using ether is very risky.
THE BEST THING you can do for your 1994 F250 is save some money and replace ALL of the glow plugs with Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs only. Then if your solid state controller is bad, replace it with a NEW controller.
The controller serves a number of functions including this important one: It senses combustion chamber temperatures and provides an 'after glow' function based on cylinder temperatures, the afterglow will continue to warm the combustion chamber during the early warm up period which greatly reduces smoke and pollution in the exhaust exhaust during the start up and warm up phase. It shouldn't smoke at all on start up and during initial warm up. This is providing that you don't have air leaks in the return fuel lines (connections) which would make it hard to start. New return fuel lines are a routine maintenance item and should ALL be replaced at the same time. That's a different subject so I won't get into discussing that here but there is a PROPER way to do it so be SURE you understand that before replacing them .

A properly functioning solid state controller with all good Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs is a very very nice convenience in so many ways. Your truck should start almost instantly. Mine starts on about the first engine revolution even after it's been sitting for a couple of months, WITH NO SMOKE! I live in a densely populated neighborhood, in the summer people have their windows and doors open in their homes, picnics and barbecues outside in their yards and if my truck blew smoke on start up it would drift into their yards and into their open windows and screen doors and I would be getting some complaints. In the city IT'S VERY NICE to have a truck that doesn't smoke and that makes it more pleasurable to drive. I also drive it in a manner that reduces smoke on acceleration, being careful not to over fuel the engine. There is almost never a need to be hammering down on the accelerator pedal. On rare occasions it may be necessary. Same on the highway, (Rare occasions) like if I'm towing up a steep or long grade.

Anyway, my advice is to get your solid state glow plug system fixed/replaced. It's really worth it and you will be a lot happier with your truck.

 

if the engine block is over around 90 degrees, it should start with no problem without glow plugs.
the factory glow plugs controller shuts off around 110 degrees.

 

Answer to original question: No. As long as all glow plugs have continuity GPC will power the harness till resistance is met and then flip a relay till power reset. Glow plugs only heat cylinders for startup.

If you have a proper gear reduced starter(like the PowerMaster or M8T50072), 12.5V+ on each battery while off, proper resistance from starter solenoid and relay, then it is IP solenoids or intrusion.

Most common air intrusion spots:

• T on back of return rail
• Filter heater
• Metal segment of pump line coming from tanks(usually one crossing engine support)

It's almost never rotted line or the snap connectors. Most commonly something in start circuit or air intrusion.

 

Thanks guys. Pretty sure I have some gnarly air intrusion because as I crank it, no smoke is coming from the tail pipe. I'm planning on doing the return lines and maybe plugging the fuel heater, then we'll see how things go. Really appreciate it.