My truck has become hard to start. What I mean by that is that it takes several seconds to start longer than it used to. I have new batteries, so it cranks over fine. All maintenance is up to date and oil is relatively new. My glow plug relay tests fine and appears to be working properly. The PCM is telling it to engage and appears to be sending power to the glow plug connectors at the valve cover harness. I have tested the glow plugs resistance as per the sticky instructions and all over them measure between 1.8 and 2.3 ohms. I realize that this is outside the optimum .8 to 1.5 that the sticky indicates they should be, but they aren't outside of that parameter by much, and they are pretty consistent. Are these readings indicating that weak glow plugs may be my culprit here?

 

Yes an in reality they should read .9-1.0 ohms for them to be working properly.

 

I believe they are probably the originals, and if so, they have 191,000 miles on them. I guess I've got my money's worth out of them. I have read through the sticky very quickly on replacing them, and I got the message really quick not to use Autolite glow plugs. I also saw that sticky post was over 12 years old. Is this still true? Do any of you guys that have done this job have any other advice for a first timer, since I will be doing this job myself. Thanks everybody

 

Only Motorcraft or Beru (same Glow plugs) don't even try on using other brand GP.

 

Replacing glow plugs isn't too bad. The lower rear bolts on the valve covers can be a bear and you'll need either a swivel or a swiveling socket. Things are tight in there and you won't be able to back the GP all the way out with the socket on it. Just knock it loose then feed a piece of fuel hose (not sure what size) down onto the GP to unscrew it the rest of the way.

 

What they said....Motorcraft only... Avoid swelled GPs and the next time you change them out you wont have one break off in the head.

Walleye gave up my next tip.... rear bolt on the valve covers can be a pain without the right tools. I used the socket (1/4in drive), short extension w/ ratchet and this should just clear the top of the valve cover to take it off. Also, I put a piece of masking tape over the end of the socket so when it went on the bolt it created a bit of pressure so the nut came out with the socket. Easier than trying to reach for it blindly.

Otherwise it is all pretty easy...just a lot to take off.

 

thanks for the helpful tips everyone! I think I might just do the injector o-rings while I'm already in there replacing the glow plugs. Do you guys think this is a good idea, or should I stick to the "if it isn't broke, don't fix it" logic?

 

I don't fix what ain't broke but I am well acquainted with Murphy, he rides on my shoulder and I am no stranger to breaking something else in the process. You know, a 'no good deed shall go unpunished' sort of thing. You may have better luck and want to do them.

 

It sounds like a very sound plan!

O-rings and glow plugs are about $10/each, per cylinder for Alliant (only use these OEM orings) and Motorcraft GPs.

I would suggest replacing the UVCH harness while there, too. I used the Dormans, which have an integrated gasket and harness. There were some who had trouble with very EARLY versions, but I have yet to hear of any trouble with recent ones, like mine.

Take care of those things and switch to 5w-40w synthetic Rotella T6 oil, and use a quality additive (PS white bottle when cold, gray when warm weather) and you're 90% of the way there.

My truck went from a plug-in monster when it got cool with romping and occasional no-start, to "always starts" in the coldest weather without plugging in and under 2 secs.

The symptoms you describe are par for the course as these trucks age and gain mileage. Fortunately, thanks the shared experience of so many, they are easy to fix and revitalize.

Exciting times lie ahead

 

i bet that 5w-140 T6 is HARD to find.. doing the same thing this weekend changing from motorcraft 15w-40 to the T6 5W-40 came up a gallon short.. got 12 needed 16. I did pump out the HPOP reservoir and refill as well.

Plus change out filter on bypass filter i installed last year.

I have heard/read another thing to do when you have valve covers off when doing glow plug and/or replacing o'rings on injectors is to get a shim kit for injector solenoid especially if you have 150K or more miles.

I tend to abide by the "no good deed goes unpunished" model as well but sometime you have to say "what the hell, stay calm and carry on".

have a good one

 

Haha! Yep, should be 5w-40w. I corrected my post, thanks

 

Thanks for the for the guidance guys. Carl, please tell me more about this injector solenoid shim kit? I've not heard or read about this before.

 

not sure where i heard or read it most likely on ford forums. I got the kit off ebay. let me see what i can find to remember.

I think I was looking for hard start in cold and found info ..

try a search using shim kit injectors or something like that..

94-03 7.3 POWERSTROKE injector tuneup SHIM kit w/ DIPACO SCREWS,( NO TOOLS ) | eBay
here is link to ebay listing.

 

If your under the valve covers, why not do a compression check. You will have a baseline for the future.

 

Hello Bobcatbob,
Just wondering why you are replying to a threat from 2017?