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Good morning,
thank you for the diagrams. I had checked continuity yesterday from the injectors, through the harness and to the 42 pin connector and got consistent readings throughout all eight injectors. I only swapped in one new replacement harness so far, I will do the passenger side today. These are new replacement UVCHs from international. I had previously purchased a pair of new UVCHs when I purchased the new injectors, along with new gaskets and a set of new GPs. I’ll back probe connectors today. I’m getting desperate and running out of ideas. I’m hesitant to give a diesel shop a chance at it; 1, I don’t know who is good around here in San Diego. 2, I’m afraid that, at $150/hr, they may be in turn guessing at the problem. Maybe their diagnostics would be better and it would quickly lead them to the solution. I could also ship the PCM, hydra and IDM ( don’t know what that looks like yet. Can I get to it from the engine bay or wheel well on the drivers side?) to dieselchat or someone similar. But then what happens if those all come back with GTG reports?
Would a during CPS show any of these symptoms? I have a spare, but I’ve already started just throwing sensors at this thing with no change so I’m hesitant to continue down that path
Moving injectors around didn’t change anything, nor did the new UVCHs. Looks like I may have a wiring issue. I must’ve knocked something too hard doing anything else. Don’t know why else it would start having electrical issues, when I didn’t change any wiring, otherwise. Frick.
Good evening,
i should have done it earlier. AA and Bitterroot recommended looking at the injectors more. Did a buzz test. #2 and #7 both failed the test, with the additional code of p1267 which is #7 high to low side short short. Going to dig into the injectors obviously. Hope I didn’t fry anything it break something!!
Can you try this buzz test again, now that you've changed some harnesses, and see if #2 and #7 are faulting?
After that, I'd take some time to check the 42 pin harness to the IDM, and get eyes on the IDM itself. See if it's watertight. As long as you have a code to chase, hoping you can avoid a diesel shop just yet. I believe you remove the fender liner to get to the IDM. This is a view with the fender removed - thankfully you do not have to go this far to get at it.
Ha! That’sa terrible place for the IDM! I’ll go digging!!
Yes, running the buzz test again still yielded the same three codes indicating cylinders 2 and 7 injectors low circuit, and cylinder 7 high to low side short. I cleared the codes and ran it again after swapping injectors around.
Whelp.
Shipped IDM and PCM+hydra to dieselchat to see what they can find.
Would a dying CPS show any of these symptoms?
FYI, doing this again I would only have bought the refreshed HPOP from CNC. Support after the sale has been poor.
Whelp.
Shipped IDM and PCM+hydra to dieselchat to see what they can find.
Would a dying CPS show any of these symptoms?
FYI, doing this again I would only have bought the refreshed HPOP from CNC. Support after the sale has been poor.
If there is an issue there, Jonathan at DTC will find it. You can rest assured on that.
As for the CNC Fab comment, are you saying the support for the Hydra chip you purchased from them has been poor? I looked back through the posts and thus is what I gathered based on posts like #70 where the purchased items/parts were mentioned.
I had gathered from other threads, and from a vendor recommendation, that they would be very helpful. They were very helpful walking me through even some trouble shooting.
Yes, CNC is who I bought the hydra from. No response to multiple questions, though before the sale they were responsive. Rude on the phone when I called. I’m sure they are busy like every one is lately. So good on them as the hpop seems very strong. But I’ve gotten waaaaaay more support trying to trouble shoot my problems from a different vendor, Bitterroot, and I didn’t even buy the chip from them. I assume I caught an employee on a bad day or something, as CNC is very much a reputable vendor. I will continue to tell anyone that the hpop was very well done and the core exchange system they use was seamless in it’s execution.
Found multiple separated or exposed wiring between the outer connectors for the injector harnesses heading to the 42 pin connector.
when I started to do the idm wiring tests, both sides checked out until I got to step 2 of test 2, checking the right bank feed to IDM ground circuit. Should have seen an open circuit. Instead I saw some resistance. Unwrapped the electrical tape around these connection points, and saw the attached. First pic is passenger side, second is driver. I know I have exposed a problem, I just don’t know if it’s THE problem. Easily could be I think, if not, it’s a major problem that must be addressed. I could just clean and resolder these, but since I have electronics flying cross country to be checked out by an expert, might as well make time to replace with new, right? I have some new connectors coming. Stand by!
Oh my! Better to be inconvenienced now and find all the problems then it working out of the box and being stranded on the side of the road. Looking forward to your excursion running like a top!
Good afternoon,
IDM, hydra and pcm all checked out. Reinstalled everything, no I’m back to cranking with no start. Saw hydra was defaulted to ‘nS’ which I assume means no start. Reset it to just my modified mild tune from AA for modified injectors, no difference. Noticed theft light was flashing on dash when cranking. Didn’t remember it doing that before, I don’t think it was but I don’t remember. Reflashed all tunes even though they all said PATS enabled already because I just don’t know what else to do.
recharging batteries now.
My forscan isn’t reading the pcm anymore? It will give me trouble codes but I can’t do datalogging? Says pcm isn’t connected even when it is?
Oh and the injectors all ohm’s between 3.1-3.2 so at least I fixed that! Started looking around harder after I shipped the hardware to dieselchat and saw completely disconnected and/or bare wires along both heads. Ordered new injector harness connectors Anna soldering then back in one by one to the harness.
I don’t remember what all has been done throughout this thread but in light of your ‘new’ issues I would try removing the Hydra. See if it will start or acts different without it. Cleatus12r has shared with us many times that single shots will run on factory tuning. Not gonna run in a way you’ll want to keep but run nonetheless.
Make sure the key is OFF (good rule of thumb is in your pocket) before pulling the chip.
The NS on Hydra is No Start as you suspected. It requires a key cycle after switching to get back out of the no start mode.
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