Good afternoon,
Recently, I installed;
CNC Stage 1 HPOP with new lines
Riffraff FRX
Riffraff new fuel lines
Riffraff billet plenums
Obsession T4 Kit with a S363
160/0 Bitterroot Diesel injectors
Riffraff CCV re-route kit
New 6637 kit because my existing AIS wouldn't fit!

I of course got a Hydra with Andrew Arthur tunes (GREAT to work with!).
The truck will not start. Cranks HARD, but will not start. I removed the chip in case that was causing an issue due to me not cleaning the PCM well or something, and it still will not start.
I am wondering if I either broke a sensor or am forgetting a sensor. I am suspect of the IPR and ICP. I tried to take logs, I am attaching them. Any thoughts?
PS, I NEVER would have attempted any of this (I am NOT a mechanic) without this forum. It is amazing the knowledge that is on here, and the willingness to help. I hope to someday contribute more, as I have definitely been a consumer of knowledge here over the years.
Adam

 

Hi Adam,

I think it will take a few 30 second long cranking sessions before it will start. The chart you attached shows a 20 second crank - ICP is not building much yet. Keep at it. Might need to try 3-4 30 second cranks, then put the batteries on a charger for a few hours, and try again. I expect it'll light off once the air is cleared out.

 

Maybe I haven’t been cranking long enough. Most of the cranking sessions have been less than 20-25 sec. I don’t know I could go over 30. I cracked open the fuel bowl to see if maybe there was pressure in the lines and the bowl was full and fuel came spilling out so that’s good. What’s getting me is there are couple of different plugs that can fit into the ipr, doesn’t seem To make a difference which one I plug in? Also, I HAD an hpx in there too since I had already bought it and didn’t install it so figured I might as well. However, when I was trying to get the turbo seated I nailed the fittings for the line on the passenger side, and stripped the threads of the CNC kit fitting. I can put in the bolt that goes into that threaded hole, but it doesn’t tighten up. Can I Jb Weld it? Get a replacement bolt? I can’t figure out what that fitting is called that goes in there stock. When I search for oil plug on 7.3 head, everything either pointed me to plugs within the valve covers or the plugs at the back and front of the heads for the rails.
It feels like I’m close!!

 

I believe you are talking about the ORB (o-ring boss) fitting. What is your fuel pressure?

 

I tried cranking it for a few 30+ second sessions, no change.
I’m not sure which pid to select for fuel pressure. All I can find is the icp and the fuel pulse width.

 

You'll need a manual pressure gauge.

 

You replaced a lot of HPo stuff.
Did you refill your reservoir? Are your valve covers still off from the injector job?

When I had my glow plugs out for the powered cylinder oil evacuation after doing it by hand the motor spun over at like 3k rpm with no compression. So I did six 30 second crank sessions like that. My thoughts were the hpop is gear driven so the higher rpm with no compression means I was purging a crap load of air faster than I would cranking at 500rpm or so with all the glow plugs in. So when I had everything back together and ready to actually try for fire up it took about 5 seconds and it lit right up

Make sure your batteries are topped off before trying to fire up. Your pid scale is so high I can't see voltage levels

And it could be that you have the IPR plug on the wrong sensor. I can't remember which 2 are interchangeable, possibly the ebpv, but if swapped wrong it will cause a no start

 

Yes, I think I should have split it up into multiple installs to better isolate the mods. In my head I wanted to go deep into the valley once.
I excavated the fluid in the cylinders by turning over the crank a number of times. What do you mean the engine was cranking over at 3k rpm when you did this? You mean you disconnected the injectors from the harness in order to ensure a no start and just turned the key like normal? I did refill the hpop. I have also checked to ensure there is still oil in there as well after all the cranking. I’ll try Swapping plugs around.
I’ve been charging the batteries pretty frequently. Sorry, I’ll fix the y axis. I thought I had fixed all the graphs but I must have missed one for setting the proper value range. Thank you.
I’ve been looking to see what fuel pressure gauge people are running. looks like the more common kits I’m not really interested in running as I have the frx in there and it looks like they gauges plug into the feed line, for a mechanical at least. I’ll probably just do an install to go into the cab and run one off of one of the ports in the back of the bowl assembly.

 

If you run a full time fuel pressure gauge like many of us do (me too) you'll want it post filter. That plug for post filter pressure on the fuel bowl is down under the yellow fuel bowl drain valve and is a bear to get to. Don't put it pre filter up top where it's easy like you'll see all the you tube videos show you. I removed the bowl and rebuilt it when I added my FP gauge, made access simple then.

Yes after you bar the motor manually for the oil in cylinders leave all the glow plugs out and have the 42 pin disconnected. Then use the starter to turn the motor over faster, evacuating the cylinders even more, plus turning the hpop over super fast purging air much faster than with compression. Then when you are ready for actual startup put all the glowplugs back in and plug in the 42 pin.

You'll want to leave the valve covers off till you do have successful fire up so you can visually inspect all the injector oil spouts at idle so you'll know all 8 are all working properly and you didn't miss an injector plug or have one that came loose during all the work

 

Oh and since you opened up the fuel with the FRx and injectors do some key on for 30 seconds cycles a few times too. You'll hear the air being purged from the fuel system and back into the tank blowing bubbles. I think I cycled the key 5 times to get fuel pressure to stay steady and no longer hear air in the tank, then I cycled it 2 more times just to be sure

 

Here is the oil rail plug. Pic is from riffraff


Correct me if wrong, I believe it is just a #6 orb

 

IPR and EBPV Actuator connectors are interchangeable.

 

The connectors are the same but I believe that the wires are too short to hook up wrong.

 

When there’s a will there’s a way. Ask me how I know.

 

Secondary to the starting, for now, is the threads in the head for that high pressure oil plug. Think Jb weld would work, or would I just hate myself later? Can I repair the threads without taking the head of the block?
I’ll try switching sensor plugs around. Switching to the t4 at the same time means I have a number of sensor wires that have no home now, do it’s sometimes is confusing. Luckily, most of the ends have unique ridges and such that prevent plugging into the wrong sensor. I also try to follow the engine harness and sensors that are supposed to plug into parts that are near one another seem to branch off the main harness bundle together.