I was having issues with the hydra coming loose , had my buddy retin the pcm it fits nice and snug now!
I looked for ever bump i hit before and the truck would not die!
just looking at your pcm connection, it needs retinned badly

 

Thank you! I’ll get it done. The 20sec that it ran well are making me hopeful that’s ‘all’ it is

 

Sorry, been too busy to drop by. Glad BWST was able to help sort this out for you. Hopefully it’s only a running issue and all will be well soon.

 

admittedly, not like smooth speed bumps like from php’s video. I can try to redo it, I thought doing both sides (I’ve seen people getting away with only doing one, but figured my luck streak would continue and that wouldn’t be enough). Same thing still happens. Fired up great, sounded good for about 15sec, started to choke on itself, idle changed, and it started doing the same thing. I’ll post the logs up in a bit, have to format them.

 

Here are the attached logs. Absolutely zero change from before I attempted to do the retinning. That leads me to think, though it needed it, something else is going on? I would have thought I would have at least held a connection longer, if that was the issue, but it was the same exact symptoms. Started up extremely well. Idle well. and about 20sec into it or so, it idled down, acted like it was going to choke on itself, let out a little puff of smoke, and went into the same cyclic idle up and down, attempted to drive in the neighborhood and there was absolutely no pedal.
I think I am going to break down and try to call CNC tomorrow and see if they have any idea, as that is who I bought the chip from. They have not been responding to email, I can only assume they are extremely busy and not that they automatically think it's a tune issue or something. I have tried tunes from both AA and Hydra's Titan Unlock library, doesnt matter. I dont WANT to send the PCM to someone like PHP now as I just spent the time and money upgrading my soldering equipment to no crap make an attempt at this, but should I do that AND see if they will look at the hydra chip as well?
I just dont understand how it's the fuel that's showing it may be an issue, as that is the system I touched the least (FRx and new RiffRaff lines from the bowl to the heads). The oil system is what got the major system change with the new CNC HPOP. BTW, that HPOP, is STRONG! Highly recommend to anyone, and it was super easy doing the core exchange.

 

Shoooooot! Would you email me the raw data logs again, Adam? I can't see the detail I'd like to see in the pdf.

I don't know - yes that solder looks rough, but I would expect each contact in the hydra edge connector to be making strong contact now with the solder you added.

 

Can you read codes now with the hydra installed?

After 20 seconds, is the fuel pressure staying up at 60+psi?

 

I'll call Bill this morning and see what he thinks. He should know what change is made in the PCM after 20 seconds.

 

Good idea. I’m thinking it could be changing from cold start IPR control to a ‘normal’ idle type of control.

There has been so much going on I can’t remember. Have you tried with the ICP disconnected with the same results?

How about checking the EOT signal?

Darn it I was really hoping the running issue would take care of this.

 

Good morning,
yessir, tried unplugging the icp, even replaced the icp with a new one from riffraff, no change.
Where do I get the EOT signal from?
I’ll relog the DTCs. I will say, after I did the retinning and fired it back up, it found all the modules without giving me an error, which it hadnt done before.
CNC wouldn’t entertain I may have a chip issue. Would barely entertain anything actually. It doesn’t help the customer when a vendor just wants to blame other vendors.

 

 

Jeez. You know that picture is about the clearest picture of the configuration of sensors at that location!! Do you happen to have one like that for the AIH relay area? The obsession kit, I didn’t connect a number of the old sensors as there is no ebp system anymore. As I understand it, the only pressure reading the t4 kits need are the map readings. I used a 90* hose barb fitting for that, off the y.

 

EOT should be a PID selection on forscan. I use the CTS to read mine. It was just a thought as maybe an erroneous temp signal could cause it to use a strange part of the fueling table. A long shot but worth a look since it’s easy and free to check.

The IAH should have been deleted with your kit. I haven’t ran mine for years. Left everything on the relay except the large wire running from it to the heater IIRC. This left them with a good “home” position and prevented any shorts. Also removed the ground from the heater to head. The relay should be the furthest one forward. The rear relay is foe the glow plugs.

 

Thank you. I have been reading the eot PID now that I look again.
Tried new tunes, no change.
I MADE MY FIRST VIDEO!!!
fires up good, stumbles, smokes, recovers with a other idle, pedal barely seems to register.
i re-retinned. Was easier the second time! I think I had more guts to me the second rodeo and got the thicker side profile like Bill shows in his excellent video. I don’t feel that’s the issue anymore.
read the DTCs. They all seem to be associated with; sensors that are no longer connected; a ground interrupt for the PCM, I’m assuming due to the PCM being uninstalled then reinstalled.

 

Man that sounds awful! Hoping one of the more experienced folks will have a good idea for you.

Sounds like a dead cylinder type of miss to me. But doesn’t make sense that it’s fairly smooth for the first few moments.