What is an enthusiast forum for .... if not to discuss and respond based on experience and observation? It certainly isn't to just agree with everyone's opinion/decision. Totally agree that it is important in how it is done though.

I do know of a couple of threads where an OReilly's pump was used and it seems to have worked (ie no update in quite awhile). There is one thread where the pump was posted to have failed, but it was actually a J-tube o-ring that failed upon installation. I guess that makes it better, but people need to also be aware that o-ring materials are one way the aftermarket cuts corners (the Dorman oil cooler gasket fiasco and the Black Onyx head gasket are good examples). Failed o-rings and gaskets have caused a TON of problems with the 6.0L. Clearly there are different experiences out there.

That said - it is a good thing to try new things.....people here have been trying new things for a lot longer than 5 years. Lots of good advice has come as a result of trying new things (when succeeding, AND when failing).

As far as just being luck goes ...... IMO it is more like Quality Assurance/Control (ie not TOTALLY luck). No company that is still in business will have 100% failure of their products (and few will have 100% successes). One success or one failure sure doesn't define a product, it is all about probabilities/percentages/statistics. The forums serve a useful purpose as a place to see real world experiences, but in the end, they are all opinions. For the most part, Ford has had a very active program in Quality Assurance/Control, but it is costly to do so (hopefully they still do). Take electronic sensors for example, it is COMMON for aftermarket sensors to have a higher failure rate and less longevity than OEM. That doesn't mean that there isn't a place for them, some do work (considering all of the sensor purchases, a person will just have better luck finding a good OEM sensor). As you pointed out, it is a personal decision, but hopefully experienced people keep posting their advice!

Anyway, the easiest place to cut costs in the aftermarket is to not do much in the areas of Quality Assurance and Quality Control. Not saying they all do, but it is rampant so that things can be provided for less cost - especially these days. In some areas it isn't a big risk. In others it is. Who wants an engine to breakdown on a trip and force us into an unknown shop situation. Everyone has their own pocket book restrictions and their own level of acceptable risk. Caveat Emptor.

I totally understand why the OP's HPOP will be replaced at this point, but I do wonder if it truly was (or is) the root cause issue. It would be interesting to know if you could blow air backwards through that pump, or if there is trash on the screen under the oil cooler.

Something that might be applicable:
From a failed HPOP (high pressure oil pump) this is the pump body where the swash plate and cylinder block are installed. A light press fit is intended to hold the swash plate in place but apparently they can spin - notice the matching scuff marks to the swash plate photo.
https://www.forddoctorsdts.com/galle...51-60l-hpop-2/

 

The HPOP is a complex little pump, so unlike alternators and starters, there is a shortlist of rebuilders that the aftermarket can use, maybe only one or two. The company that rebuilt my 6.0L and Ford used is probably one of them based on what I could find. The company may have been what Ford also used, maybe all this time or until they got tired of the warranty. But working for a supplier to OE and the retail changes, I can state that the retail chains only care about price and how contracts are written; flipping failed rebuilt parts is no loss to the retail chain. They don't even pay for the warranty replacement to be shipped to the store. This means their builder has to cut corners as much as you have felt you needed to.

As LindenBruce stated, it's the luck of the draw. My HPOP has made it to 75k. Maybe it is close to ending, at half-life, or quarter-life. The problem with HPOP, even if in the warranty loop, is the labor that it takes to flip them, and why mechanics get so leary real fast, the labor can be on them and the shop, although sometimes it's on the customer. That's one advantage with the 7.3L; it's outside of the engine, right upfront.

I understand your reluctance to pay the high price. That's a tough pill. This is a deep pocket motor for many.

 

Thanks Guys for all the good info, I did put OEM O rings on the bottom of the pump because I had been told aftermarket O rings were junk. I do have another question though, Should I be changing the J tube while I have it all torn apart? Can a J tube "fail" I have not blown air into the pump to look for leaks at the J tube. I will do that when I install the new pump (old one already out).. If I do have a leak there do I replace the whole J tube or just the O ring? Also, the HPOP cover does not have bolts on the back side, what material are you guys using for that? Previously I just left the old rubber gasket, I am now thinking that could have contributed to my problem (even though it did not appear damaged) I will be replacing it this time, but curious if you recommend anything beyond that gasket for holding the back side of the pump air tight.

 

Mark may follow this better than I do, but I've read a number of Ford mechanics replace the J-tube as a part of the repair. I know there are o-ring kits out there that replace the o-ring, I just don't know if Ford sells them.

 

I have just been looking into that Jack because that o-ring has been a source of issues, some even have blamed the HPOP when it was that o-ring.

Ford sells this kit for the early HPOP, (edit) but it may or may not contain the internal o-ring or the teflon backing ring that the branch tube connects to:
3C3Z-9G804-AA
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5754cd6782.jpg
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ng-3c3z9g804aa

03-04 HPOP "J Tube" - It comes with the internal viton o-ring, teflon backer ring, and metal retaining ring already installed (it is unfortunately expensive):
3C3Z-9T288-AA
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...il-3c3z9t288aa

I think I would just replace the supplied o-rings unless there appears to be damage/wear on the J-tube/components, then pressure test.

 

I bought the j-tube. Replacing the rings and then failing, knowing I’d have to tear all that apart again, would have my wife ensuring the guns were in a safe place.

It’s expensive, but not that expensive. I can make up the cost by reusing the glow plugs and some sensors, although as deadly, are easier to replace.

 

Just installed new HPOP and pressure tested the J Tube, no leaks. I am headed out to the dealership to get the new cover gasket but gonna leave the J tube since it is not leaking. will update shortly.

 

Got it back together and had starting issues .. used forscan and laptop to force IPR to 60, started right up, started about 6 times in a row.. so I am about to take it for a test drive.. FINGERS CROSSED

 

So I actually got caught up in another project and did not get to ATTEMPT my test drive for a few hours and it went right back to crank, no start. Did NOT push IPR this time. So OPINIONS PLEASE,, are you still thinking wiring? I looked very closely at everything while I was putting it back together and did not see anything.