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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Cold weather hard start

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Old Nov 16, 2022 | 10:01 AM
  #31  
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But do check that EBP sensor - one of those every 5 years kinda things, but more prone (maybe, the other guys here know better) when the turbo is not "exercised" regularly. Real easy to do on the Fseries. Costs nothing. Then drive it like you stole it every now and then to keep the rust off.

I think most people would agree that the 6.7s are better engines. But yeah, the cost. They're getting close to being cheap though. Once consumer vehicles get more than 10 years old, most banks won't lend on them and the price drops big. The first 6.7s just got there. Let some of those finish off the current loans then come to market and you'll see some difference.

Until then, treat the 6.0 right, and it'll treat you right has been my experience. Hell, if I had a F250 that I didn't work hard, I'd even down tune that. Take more pressure off that engiine. The Eseries with the same engiine don't see the head gasket issues that the Fseries does, but they're tuned 100hp lower. Still gets my E450s down the road just fine.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2022 | 11:28 AM
  #32  
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Thank you.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2022 | 10:54 PM
  #33  
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Kinda surprised nobody mentioned driving it like he stole it once in a while also for the sake of keeping the turbo veins free and EGR valve from caking up. Especially considering the truck isn't a daily driver. Dare I say you guys are slipping?

To the OP- You may pay more for a rebuilt FICM but you also get a lifetime warranty from the reputable shops as opposed to Ford's 24 months, and the same Ford quality that got you to the point of having to replace the FICM in the first place.

Also, when you go to add Archoil into the oil filler neck, do it with the engine running and add a little bit at a time, or you will think you just broke your truck. Don't ask me how I know.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2022 | 07:51 AM
  #34  
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Good info here, guys. I appreciate it. I am not a TOTAL idiot when it comes to doing some minor mechanic work, but a diesel is a different animal.

I've checked out a few videos on cleaning the EBP, and that looks pretty simple.

I haven't put in the Archoil yet, so that suggestion is a good one as well, thanks. Not every parts store carries it, and I got the last bottle online.

You guys keep saying drive it like you stole it, and I am trying to maximize my mileage at nearly $5 a gallon.....but I kick it in the *** now when passing and using an on ramp. I have to admit that I love feeling and hearing that turbo kick in.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2022 | 08:35 AM
  #35  
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As stated multiple times above, you need ForScan - regardless of what mechanic you have.

Assuming your FICM was bad, then it would likely have thrown a code (although the logic board failures do NOT throw codes).

When you have stiction issues, the issues should not be expected to immediately clear up on a switch to a 5W40 synthetic oil, or the addition of a product such as archoil.

Just an illustration of the point about getting a QUALITY re-build on your FICM as opposed to a shop replacing with a re-manufactured Ford unit.:

The Ford number for a FICM is HC3Z-12B599-HRM. The RM on the end means it is RE-MANUFACTURED. They all are now..... there are NO NEW FICMs! The best price you can get on one of them is around $415 from an on-line (discount) Ford Dealership. They sell for over $600 at local dealerships, and a mechanic will usually charge you that and more. They are not that hard to remove and send to CircuitBoardMedics or FICMrepair.com. Both of these companies offer upgraded parts over the OEM re-manufactured FICM, and they also offer better warranty options. CircuitBoardMedics charges around $250 for their upgrade and has a 5 year warranty. FICMrepair.com offers lifetime warranty option, but their charges are higher ($600 with a lifetime warranty) - which is a comparable price to a Ford unit but you get better parts and warranty.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2022 | 08:53 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
Hell, if I had a F250 that I didn't work hard, I'd even down tune that. Take more pressure off that engiine. The Eseries with the same engiine don't see the head gasket issues that the Fseries does, but they're tuned 100hp lower. Still gets my E450s down the road just fine.
Gross, I would never turn down a 6 liter! I prefer the hot SRL++ tune to stock.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2022 | 10:05 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bismic
Assuming your FICM was bad, then it would likely have thrown a code (although the logic board failures do NOT throw codes).
Glad you threw in that last part Mark. I had one that was causing a random hot no-start. And another that just made the truck run like crap. Neither threw any codes, and the voltages showed to be good for both of them.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2022 | 10:43 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by MisterCMK
Gross, I would never turn down a 6 liter! I prefer the hot SRL++ tune to stock.
LOL, yeah, I know - heresy. And, I'd understand if I drove a 250. I've had a few for short periods and they're fun to drive; but, all the rest of my 6.0s have been heavy, cab and chassis work trucks. They're only fun to drive going downhill on the interstate.

I've never weighed my F450. It's a little lighter now that the thieves stole 4 tool boxes off the bed, but I'd estimate it at 12,000 (real stout flatbed). My E450 shuttle bus weighs 11,000 after I took the seats out. I'd usually pull/carry 13-14000lbs with the truck, whereas I only load 6-7000lbs on/behind my bus. From there, they both perform about the same - for my purposes. They barely go over the Rockies without getting close to 230 EOT on the steepest parts; and on long, slight uphills, both trucks' fans go off every few miles. Both get similar mpg.

But one of those trucks has a much greater chance of blowing up at 230 EOT, IMHO, or at any other temp over the same mileage. If I was fortunate enough to find another low mileage (<100k), cherry 6.0l in a F250, I wouldn't use it as a daily driver, but if I did, I'd tune it down to make that baby last forever.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2022 | 07:22 AM
  #39  
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Could someone recommend an android BAFX adapter that would work for me? Or would something like this be better? There are a lot of options.

Amazon Amazon
 
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Old Nov 23, 2022 | 07:38 AM
  #40  
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The link below has been posted above. ForScan recommends some adapters.

https://forscan.org/home.html
  • Supported adapters :
  • OBDLink EX USB, recommended USB adapter for Windows version of FORScan, also for configuration and programming functions
  • OBDLink MX+ BT, recommended Bluetooth adapter for Lite versions of FORScan (iOS, Android)
  • vLinker FS USB vLinker FS USB
    , recommended USB adapter for Windows version of FORScan, also for configuration and programming functions
  • vLinker FD BT vLinker FD BT
    , recommended Bluetooth adapter for FORScan Lite for Android
  • OBDLink SX/LX/MX
  • ELS27 (STN1170/2120)
  • ELM327-compatible (fully compatible with original ELM327, please also see important note below)
  • J2534 Pass-Thru

Here is another useful link (also posted earlier):
https://forscan.org/comparsion.html

I have the BAFX BlueTooth adapter and it works fine with my version of ForScan (Android ONLY). It should still work with the current version also, BUT ........ ForScan has stated that they are discontinuing ELM32 support in the future, so who knows.

Just use their adapter, not their software:
Amazon Amazon

That said, since it isn't much more cost, I would probably now buy their recommended VLinker adapter - again for Android only:
Amazon Amazon

For ForScan software:
https://forscan.org/download.html
 
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Old Nov 23, 2022 | 08:15 PM
  #41  
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Thank you. It's appreciated.
 
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