If you plan on doing your own work you absolutely need a monitoring tool (like the Forscan app) and a wireless adapter to plug into your obd2 port on the vehicle so it can talk to your phone or iPad.
Even if you do not want to work in the vehicle, a monitoring device is very helpful. You can catch issues before the engine breaks. Like check oil temp vs coolant temps to tell if your oil cooler in plugging up. Or monitoring engine voltage to make sure it isn’t dropping so low as to damage a FICM, then FICM damage taking out injectors. There are others too.
If you want to diagnose glow plugs without checking the system for codes, it can be done without too much work. Diesel tech Ron shows how to do it with just a volt meter (if you have one). You can’t test the module with a voltmeter (that I know of).

If you find some out of spec and want to change them yourself, they can sometimes be a struggle, the harness will get destroyed and fight you taking it off. And buy the parts from a Ford dealer directly or online. There are many counterfeit parts out there, and they can cause bad results, even though they are stamped as Motorcraft. You can find great deals on Amazon or eBay or other sites, but you are playing roulette.

 

Kevin, after watching the video, it helped me understand the potential issue. I was a history teacher for 40+ years, and the reputation of social studies teachers and videos was an accurate one for me. I'm what we call a visual learner! They help me, anyway. I understand "stiction" now. It's essentially nothing more than a clogged injector caused by the crap accumulated that and becomes an issue in cold weather. Correct?
TMT, I think I knew that it wasn't a scanner, but I didn't word things correctly.
When the weather cools in a month or so, I will go to 5w40, and add the oil additive. I will use the fuel additive when I get to a parts store. After researching the 9100, that certainly looks like a strong possibility. It's a good place to start, and it sure won't do any harm.
Guys, I really like the power of the 6.0 vs a gas engine. I'm definitely a diesel rookie, but I'm getting there. I have a neighbor down a block that I know fairly well that left the Ford dealer as their diesel mechanic a few months before it closed to go to the gas fields. Small town economics. As long as it's not a big job, he can diagnose things, bring his tools, and usually get it done in my shop on a day off if he doesn't have plans. Now that I'm retired, I could watch and learn.
There are definitely some gurus here, and I thank you for taking the time to help me understand things a bit. Much appreciated.

 

I hope this helps. It helped on my 7.3 which had the same symptoms as the one in the video. Because if I remember you saying the truck hasnt been run hard correct?

 

Here's what I'm using

https://forscan.org/download.html
Download FORScan

 

Not at all. It was never worked. It pulled a light bumper pull camper occasionally with the second owner, had a bed camper with the first. Always serviced at correct intervals or before. Neither owner did any modifications, chips, etc.. Neither have I.
Stiction fits the "symptoms". That would be a cheap fix and a good place to start, for sure.

 

I was gonna say if it wasn't run hard stiction would be a problem. Hope it helps.

 

I'd still plug the heater in though. Pamper that baby!

 

I did an oil change with Archoil 9100 and 5w40 Mobil1 diesel oil. A little pricey, but if it works, it is a good call. It certainly won't hurt anything.
I have only put around 180 miles since then, but I am about to put about 2000 on it. By the time I get home to cooler mornings, I should have a good idea if it is all worth it. Since I changed the oil at around 3k, I almost put in the Archoil to see if it was that, or the 5w40 Mobil 1 that makes the most difference. I have noticed that cabin engine noise is decreased, and she wants to run a bit faster if I'm not using the cruise. Maybe the second part is just me, or because of the decreased engine noise I don't hear rpm's as well. But it's quieter and smoother on acceleration at highway speed, for sure. I will update on cold starts when I have some miles on it and after the Archoil has done it's thing.

 

You can run a buzz test on your injectors with Forscan to see if any are sticking.

 

Have you checked for codes yet with Forscan and a bluetooth adapter? Reading your initial post I'm thinking more than likely you have a glowplug code or two. You have to check for codes. It's the first thing to do at first notice of a problem.

 

Heck, I check for codes when there are no problems. At least once a week. And, I like to watch the FICM voltage at start up regularly, so I gotta have my phone out, app open, and connection made before I turn the key on - I'm thinking you can spot FICM issues in advance, and ergo, injector problems, kinda like monitoring fuel pressure and deltas.

 

I'm with Bonehead, I run all of Forscans PIDs a couple times a year and before long trips. KOEO & KOER. I also have a cranking pid list I recently started running. I import them into a spreadsheet (engineering thing) along side of desired values (which I update whenever I run across them.) I now have baseline data to compare to, if or when needed; or hopefully spot issues before hand.

 

I know that this post is over a year old, but I wanted to update as well as some additional info.

The Archoil didn't fix the problem, but my mpg increased about 1-2 mpg. After a recent oil change, it is down 1.5-2 mpg. At almost $5 a gallon, it is a good investment. I will find some and put it in.

For four years or so, I drove the truck to work daily. It was about a two mile trip. I would usually stop at a convenience store to get coffee just to let it idle and warm up a bit. It never really got up to true operating temperature. The cold start issues were getting to the point that I had to plug it in if it got down to 70. A month ago I took it to a mechanic that was recommended to me by a brother. My brother sells cars at a small lot, and they send their problems to him. It wasn't a good move on my end. After his "diagnosis" he replaced a cam sensor, a glow plug module, a map sensor, and added two bottles of Diesel 911 to clean the injectors. He replaced all filters. He did an oil change with 15w40, even though I said 5w40. I didn't notice that until I looked at the receipt a few days later. None of this did anything for the cold start issues.

Two months ago I moved to the Oklahoma City area and found a mechanic that only works on Ford diesels. He was recommended to me at a dive bar by a guy that pulled up in a 7.3 when I stopped to grab a beer while on a bike ride about a week ago. It was the FICM. I just went out to thick frost on the windshield and it started immediately without being plugged in. I found my guy.

What causes a FICM to go bad, and how does it cause problems for the injectors? Low voltage?

I will stop by a parts store the next few days to pick up some Archoil and get the app for my phone with a bluetooth adapter. Any new suggestions with that?

I appreciate everyones time and responses. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise.

 

Congrats for getting your truck fixed. That low-mileage baby didn't deserve a bad FICM. In general, the FICMs go bad because of some inferior solder points on the circuit board. Some say it's Ford's use of non-lead solder. Several companies repair the boards effectively; I've seen prices from $250 and up

But, you deserve a wrist slap. If you'd bought the OBDII adapter and the $5 ForScan app for your phone, identifying a bad FICM is one of the easiest problems to spot. And, it's an easy replace, no more than an hour for a tech, or two hours for a complete amateur. No special tools.

You woulda felt the thrill that idiots like me feel when we fix our trucks by ourselves - it's pretty cool. You can grunt like ToolTime Tim Allen.

Sounds like you found a competent tech, that's good, you won that lottery. If he was honest as well, he shouldn't have charged you more than $200 labor plus the FICM cost (not sure what Ford gets for a new one, most people get theirs rebuilt).

Going forward, I'd suggest you give that lady a good ride a couple of times a year, like you just paid a $500 dinner tab for her. Sitting around like that, only idling cold two miles at a time, they develop turbo thighs, freeze together and sap all your power. You still look good, and can move around, but you got no low-end power, no one wants you. Instead, if you'll romp that filly regularly, the turbo burns off the rust, the vanes flap, the unison slides back and forth like it's supposed to, you're a man again.

You might also run a piece of weed trimmer string down your EBP tube and check the sensor too. Prolly never been done and in need after all these years. There's a Ford tech here with a tongue stud, does it for $120 plus shop supplies.

 

I actually had a LOL at the Tool Time reference.

Since I've retired and moved, I seldom go anywhere that I don't get the truck up to temps.

My tech only uses new Ford FICM's. The price was a bit less than what I had researched. He did mention that injectors are a "wear item" and would probably need replacement by 150k. I am now at 117,000.

I asked him about the issues with the 6.0, and he thought for a bit and said...it's a "fairly long list. Your truck is in good shape and I checked it pretty well, but I have four 6.7's". For the price, I think I'll keep what I have for now.