Rust
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Once a hole starts, you’ve got to get it sealed up.
Not easy, but you have to get to the inside of the roof and clean out any rust scale from that crevice where the roof skin meets the drip rail. I have used a hacksaw blade with a squared-off end to slide it in there and rip loose the rust scale and then vacuumed it out. Then wiped it clean with a damp rag, whatever. Get it cleaned out as possible because thats where the rust holes start.
When it’s as clean as you can get it, take a small sheet metal patch, smear it (and the hole area) with some asphalt-based roofing tar and press it into the back of the hole as a backer. Tar will squeeze out the hole on the outside, smear that so that its sealed.
Moisture can not get past the roofing tar. I have used it for my entire drip rail.
Tape it off, wear latex gloves, clean up with thinner. Its not a fun job but will save your roof.
I use “Blackjack” roofing tar, available by the quart, and cheap.
Not easy, but you have to get to the inside of the roof and clean out any rust scale from that crevice where the roof skin meets the drip rail. I have used a hacksaw blade with a squared-off end to slide it in there and rip loose the rust scale and then vacuumed it out. Then wiped it clean with a damp rag, whatever. Get it cleaned out as possible because thats where the rust holes start.
When it’s as clean as you can get it, take a small sheet metal patch, smear it (and the hole area) with some asphalt-based roofing tar and press it into the back of the hole as a backer. Tar will squeeze out the hole on the outside, smear that so that its sealed.
Moisture can not get past the roofing tar. I have used it for my entire drip rail.
Tape it off, wear latex gloves, clean up with thinner. Its not a fun job but will save your roof.
I use “Blackjack” roofing tar, available by the quart, and cheap.
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