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1975 F250 Highboy, 360 C6 without AC and with standard output heater( NOT the high output option).
AS part of my heater core replacement project , I'm replacing heater hoses and would like to re-seal the heater box as well
Does anyone make a heater box seal kit for these trucks?
Thanks in advance.
Tbruz
I'm not sure what seals you are asking about, but we used some foam tape either 3/8 or 1/2 wide to seal around the fresh air vent door.
Look just under the blue dash. I think we also put some between the box and the opening in the kick panel where the fresh air comes in.
We also put a new blower motor in while it was out. You should at least look at the thread on here about how to drill a hole and add a couple of drops of oil to the one you have.
Then we used some foam packing from a parts box to seal around the heater core outlet/inlet and hoses.
Also if you haven't pulled the box yet, there is a mounting stud in the center of the firewall that runs into the engine bay that has a nut on it that you almost have to stand on your head to get to. On ours it is right behind the motor.
It is just under the gray wire connector in this picture.
Not much for seals from factory, couple of square pads on heater hoses and dense foam pads on core. Swinging doors in box for defrost to floor may be able to get from Mustang suppliers or LMC..
I did not see 1 of those that would be useful. None were for the heater the thread starter has.
All of the gaskets you need can be made. Home Depot or Lowes have window and door weather stripping which is rolls of foam with an adhesive side. The come in different widths and thicknesses. There is also a foam rolls that is cylindrical. I used that to seal where the fresh air intake meets the heater body. I drilled small holes and zip tied the cylindrical foam to the heater side of the vent. The one I had a problem with was sealing where the defrost assembly meets the heater body. For that I took a 2" thick piece of foam rubber and cut it to fit, leaving it 1" wider and 1" longer than needed so I had something to hold on to. Then I cut out the center and pushed/slid the foam into place. It was was too thick, but compressed easily and the expansion hold it in place.
The one place you need to be careful is around the core. I learned this the hard way. You have to take extra care to seal 360* around the core so that no air can pass. Seal real well around the inlet/outlet tubes. I thought I had sealed well around the core, but could only get the heater to blow semi warm air. I had to repack around the core to get good, hot air. Oh, and if you do replace the motor, get the new one that has the wires coming out at the rear of the housing, not near the front where they will prevent the motor from going through the firewall. If you take apart the heater box, make sure you seal the metal plate with silicone when you re-install it.
Well dang I guess every swing is not going to be a hit and every hit is not going to be a home run. At least I'm trying and not just on the splinter team. Splinters from the wooden bench, get it haha. Lol it's a joke.
Well dang I guess every swing is not going to be a hit and every hit is not going to be a home run. At least I'm trying and not just on the splinter team. Splinters from the wooden bench, get it haha. Lol it's a joke.
You were being helpful. Even if you did get splinters!
I did find this: https://www.cjponyparts.com/heater-s...EaAvSCEALw_wcB I know it's not year correct, but I see they have a thick rubber grommet/gasket that the fan motor mounts on. That alone, imo, is worth the cost of the kit.
Here's the same kit via summit, a few bucks less: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...IaAjp7EALw_wcB
With the following kit, although it is for up to a 72, I know that Ford used parts sometimes on many years and I would love to know if the flapper rubber in this kit fits the flappers for our year trucks. If so, that is huge. https://autokrafters.com/heater-box-...k-c7tz-18500a/
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