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Back flushing is merely a temporary band aid -- ultimately you need to replace that Oil FILTER (cooler).
Ford's (International's) design on the 6.0L isn't all that hot, it's far worse on the 6.7L where dirty oil (from the pan) goes right to the Oil FILTER (cooler) first before hitting the actual filter. They're simple to replace on the 6.7L thankfully, mucho harder on the 6.0L.
I know, what were they thinking? I was looking at the BPD oil cooler reroute, to make it easier to change. But I'm not sure how long I'll be keeping the truck and don't know if I will ever do another oil cooler or not. She's 17 years old now with 168K on the odo so I'm not sure if it would be worth investing in the reroute mod at this point. Then again, I am retired and new trucks are outrageously expensive any more so they might burry me in this thing, LOL.
Option 2 in post 10 perfectly fits your symptoms. Oil cooler bypass valve gets stuck open at high demand or the oil cooler spring is very weak. It takes 30 minutes to check. It can be removed without removing anything but the oil filter cap. It would be nice to have the specs on that spring so it can be replaced without replacing the entire oil filter base.
I do not believe you have a clogged oil cooler, unless it's the ect or eot are reading wrong at low temps. If you don't want to spend the money, simply swap the ect and eot sensors and see what happens.
I'm done.
Edit....
Well hell, I just realized i've got a spare oil cooler bypass valve spring. I mail it to you if you want it. I may take it to a structures lab and test it to see what the K value is. That way, we could match it up.
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