When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just got arp studs and new gaskets with a new oem oil cooler on my 2005 Ford F-250. Egr was already deleted and welded on both sides from the previous owner and had my mechanic check it out just to be sure and he said it looked great. Everything was torqued down to the right specs by my mechanic and I thought he did a tremendous job on the truck. It’s only been about 3 weeks almost a month since I’ve gotten it out and it’s been running great until This past week. I monitor EOT and ECT with a sct livewire and they’ve always been a few degrees different and of course the oil runs a little hotter. This past week almost everytime it was the first start of the day my oil temp would fluctuate. Oil temp would start out 20 degrees cooler and sometimes more and would rise up to normal and fall back down within a minute. It would do it all day but never got too hot and when it would go back to normal it would still be only a few degrees hotter. Well yesterday the oil temp started out doing it’s normal thing by fluctuating between cooler and normal temp but then I went on a 30 minute drive and it actually stretched out to be 20 degrees more and was enough for the wrench light to come on and throw the usual coolant/ oil temperature contribution code. Today I changed out the oil temperature sensor next to the oil filter and did a delta test for about 10 min with cruise set at 65. Still got about a 19 degree difference with the EOT at 215 and ECT at 196 but not enough for the wrench light to come on. What I’m thinking is how in the hell is my oil cooler gonna be getting clogged after not even having it out for a full month with almost a brand new motor with a clean cooling system and using the right delo elc red coolant after I had a professional mechanic do excellent work on it. Could it be false temperature readings? Someone please help because it’s very frustrating after dumping over 4K into the truck. There’s no puking or loss of coolant and no white smoke coming out the tail pipe
Sinister offers an "OEM oil cooler", and it is not the same as what you get from Ford or International.
ordered the oil cooler off eBay from a company called swag performance and off-road. “Genuine Ford OEM 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel Engine Oil Cooler” it was $300 and came in a ford box and everything with a 3 year warranty
ordered the oil cooler off eBay from a company called swag performance and off-road. “Genuine Ford OEM 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel Engine Oil Cooler” it was $300 and came in a ford box and everything with a 3 year warranty
....... almost a brand new motor with a clean cooling system and using the right delo elc red coolant after I had a professional mechanic do excellent work on it. .......
From what I read you had done a VC-9 flush before the work was done. Honestly, there’s a lot left out between that and almost a brand new motor declaration, so could you elaborate what else was done about all of the cooling system?
Pretty much I used vc-9 and flushed it out about 5 times myself and that didn’t clean it out. So took it to a good mechanic to get studded and and a new oil cooler and when he took the old cooler out it was ruptured. He cleaned the whole motor out really good when he took the whole thing apart and got the heads resurfaced before putting the studs. It ran great for 3 weeks with the temperatures looking great until yesterday when the wrench light came on and threw that code. So I put a brand new EOT sensor in and still had a 19 degree difference after a 65 mph drive for about 10 minutes. I just can’t belive the oil cooler would be clogged after all that work. Other people have told me it’s the oil cooler but it’s hard to belive
If the motor didn't get tanked, the radiator didn't get reverse flushed and the heater core didn't get reverse flushed, then you just have a flushed motor. Even with all those things, an unlucky person could still get some trash captured and caught in the inlet of the oil cooler.
But IMO you don't have an oil cooler that has all the goo caught inside the passages. With all that work I would start doing reverse flushing of the oil cooler, radiator hose off or water pump out. It might take 3-6 times over a few months to truly get all the particles out that would keep coming back and being caught in the filter, sorry cooler. But that's still better then yanking and replacing the cooler ..... because even with that, there still might be more material that doesn't come out with the relatively new cooler.
If the motor didn't get tanked, the radiator didn't get reverse flushed and the heater core didn't get reverse flushed, then you just have a flushed motor. Even with all those things, an unlucky person could still get some trash captured and caught in the inlet of the oil cooler.
But IMO you don't have an oil cooler that has all the goo caught inside the passages. With all that work I would start doing reverse flushing of the oil cooler, radiator hose off or water pump out. It might take 3-6 times over a few months to truly get all the particles out that would keep coming back and being caught in the filter, sorry cooler. But that's still better then yanking and replacing the cooler ..... because even with that, there still might be more material that doesn't come out with the relatively new cooler.
Then if it never resolves, another cooler.
okay so how would I reverse flush it? There’s got to be some kind of procedure like there is with a regular flush with vc-9. With all the money I’ve put into it I just wanna figure out how to fully clean it out so I have no more problems
okay so how would I reverse flush it? There’s got to be some kind of procedure like there is with a regular flush with vc-9. With all the money I’ve put into it I just wanna figure out how to fully clean it out so I have no more problems
That ain’t a whole lot of money into a 6.0 to eat a failure ......
Backflushing is covered on every 6.0 site, with equipment both DIY and purchased, you just need to search. It can effectively be done either way, depending how quickly it’s done.
This site site has gone through a number of threads, including an out of box method from Dick Nitro.
Just got arp studs and new gaskets with a new oem oil cooler on my 2005 Ford F-250. Egr was already deleted and welded on both sides from the previous owner and had my mechanic check it out just to be sure and he said it looked great. Everything was torqued down to the right specs by my mechanic and I thought he did a tremendous job on the truck. It’s only been about 3 weeks almost a month since I’ve gotten it out and it’s been running great until This past week. I monitor EOT and ECT with a sct livewire and they’ve always been a few degrees different and of course the oil runs a little hotter. This past week almost everytime it was the first start of the day my oil temp would fluctuate. Oil temp would start out 20 degrees cooler and sometimes more and would rise up to normal and fall back down within a minute. It would do it all day but never got too hot and when it would go back to normal it would still be only a few degrees hotter. Well yesterday the oil temp started out doing it’s normal thing by fluctuating between cooler and normal temp but then I went on a 30 minute drive and it actually stretched out to be 20 degrees more and was enough for the wrench light to come on and throw the usual coolant/ oil temperature contribution code. Today I changed out the oil temperature sensor next to the oil filter and did a delta test for about 10 min with cruise set at 65. Still got about a 19 degree difference with the EOT at 215 and ECT at 196 but not enough for the wrench light to come on. What I’m thinking is how in the hell is my oil cooler gonna be getting clogged after not even having it out for a full month with almost a brand new motor with a clean cooling system and using the right delo elc red coolant after I had a professional mechanic do excellent work on it. Could it be false temperature readings? Someone please help because it’s very frustrating after dumping over 4K into the truck. There’s no puking or loss of coolant and no white smoke coming out the tail pipe
After a 24 hour cold soak, what are your EOT/ECT before starting?
You mention a 20 degree cooler EOT, is this right after starting the truck?